NEA/BCL 102 FAQ Thread

I got mine back about a week ago and everything seems fine, but I did get 3 stovepipes, so I re-cleaned and re-lubed it, but decided to go with a generous application of a slightly thicker lubricant, GunCer (available from a site sponsor):
https://www.ballistol-shop.de/GunCer-Gun-Oil-with-Ceramic-Additives_B-S_873.html

So far no more stovepipes.

Here is an excerpt from article (link below) you might find helpful as well:

If the failure to eject malfunction is a recurring problem and it is not resolved by giving your weapon a good cleaning and proper lubrication treatment, it is best to just go ahead and replace the ejector and extractor springs as well as the extractor.

After looking at the most common stoppages and malfunctions of the AR-15, you really need to take away two things: The AR-15 functions best when kept clean and lubricated, don’t neglect basic rifle hygiene! Good quality AR-15 parts will save you a lot of trouble. Strong springs, components with quality finishes and parts that fit properly are essential for trouble free operation of the AR-15 weapon system.

https://www.wingtactical.com/how-to-fix-common-ar-15-malfunctions-and-stoppages/

Pax
 
SoleSpectre said:
Hello,
I have 100 rounds down my Gen 2 (rec’d May 15). First 20 rounds went fairly smoothly. Next 60 most stove-piped/FTE/double feed. ... I had high hopes for this gun.
Click to expand...

OK, so your rife got hot and started to act up. Sounds like my RA XCR-L.
I am no gun expert by any means so please take my experience for that it is.

My XCR would start stovepiping after it got hot, i.e. 20 quick rounds and I was rather Pi$$ed off. So back onto the RA forums I went and came back with wet the bolt with high-end synthetic motor oil. ie Mobil 1 Really?!?! And the US full auto boyz told me that if that does not work try High Temp Brake Grease.

I just happened to have Shell Rotella T6 (full synthetic) around that I use on my pickup and Motorcycles, so I gave the XCR a good cleaning with G36 (that I always used before) and then got the BCG good and wet with the T6, and sure enough, the XCR ran without issue when hot. i.e. no more stovepipes.

So when the new BCL 102 arrived two weeks ago, the first thing I did was tear it apart, gave it a good cleaning with G36, let it dry so all the solvent drys off and then, like the XCR, T6ed the crap out of the BCG. Then with my brother, the XCR with 250 rounds of 5.56 and 480 rounds of .308 HIRTENBERGER in tow, we headed off to the gun range. In the process, I managed to remember only the PMAG that came with the BCL. So the 5/20 PMag was the only mag tested.

However, we cycled at least 200 rounds down the 102 without a single issue. I was also somewhat anal about the break-in procedure as noted in that attached thread and that slowed us down a bit.

Now I don't want to get into any oil thread debate. However, the XCR and now the BCL are my first semi-auto large calibre rifles. When I started having issues with a hot rifle, I was told that while the solvent/oil compo gun cleaner/lubes work fine on weapons that do not get really hot and the solvent/oil is a compromise. The simple truth is that Solvent and Oil fight each other's properties. It is also important to let the solvent fully vaporize in the open before storing or using the rifle.

However, even when properly applied (and dryed) they simply do not leave enough oily film behind to eliminate friction when a large calibre rifle gets hot. Hence the need to use straight oil. The full auto guys can even burn off fully synthetic oil, and that is why they need High Temp Brake Grease.

So my recommendation (for what it is) is to give your BCL a good cleaning with a good gun solvent. Let it fully dry. Pick up some good fully synthetic motor oil and perhaps a small tube a High Temp Brake Grease (as a backup) give the BCL and the upper a good application of oil and head back out to the range. Shoot the BCL and see how far you get before the stove-pipes and if needed try the HT Brake Grease.

I guess that after a few hundred rounds the BCG and upper will so loosen up a bit and that might help. My XCR came used with over 500 rounds down the pipe so it was already broken-in and it still had issues running hot, so the break-in itself might not help at all.
 
Last edited:
I’ve owned to XCR-L.
Never had any issues with SP,FTF,FTE, due to mag dumps.
I’ve dumped 10 rnd mags repeatedly,right from the getgo, without lubing the crap out of it and never had your issues.
 
Brianma65 said:
I’ve owned to XCR-L.
Never had any issues with SP,FTF,FTE, due to mag dumps.
I’ve dumped 10 rnd mags repeatedly,right from the getgo, without lubing the crap out of it and never had your issues.
Click to expand...

Check your upper, do you have the same marks on mine? The BCG picks up the next round when chambering one, thus it slams it into the wall of upper the receiver, leaving two distinct dot marks.
I think the BCG is a bit too low, I might go with a JP but im worried about it not being compatible due to 10000 possible reasons and spending 400$ on a paper weight.
 
Brianma65 said:
I’ve owned to XCR-L.
Never had any issues with SP,FTF,FTE, due to mag dumps.
I’ve dumped 10 rnd mags repeatedly,right from the getgo, without lubing the crap out of it and never had your issues.
Click to expand...

Yup and you are not alone. I guess I am just one of the lucky ones! :)
BTW I am shooting Chinese Surplus (Spam Can) ammo through the XCR so that could also be a contributing factor.
 
Brianma65 said:
I’ve owned to XCR-L.
Never had any issues with SP,FTF,FTE, due to mag dumps.
I’ve dumped 10 rnd mags repeatedly,right from the getgo, without lubing the crap out of it and never had your issues.
Click to expand...

Check your upper, do you have the same marks on mine? The BCG picks up the next round when chambering one, thus it slams it into the wall of upper the receiver, leaving two distinct dot marks.
I think the BCG is a bit too low, I might go with a JP but im worried about it not being compatible due to 10000 possible reasons and spending 400$ on a paper weight.View attachment 187086View attachment 187087View attachment 187088View attachment 187089
 

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Sorry if misunderstood, but I was referring to the XCR and lubing comment.
I had the BCL set ordered but backed out, due to the possible migraine headaches,I could foresee:)
 
Pax+Caritas said:
I got mine back about a week ago and everything seems fine, but I did get 3 stovepipes, so I re-cleaned and re-lubed it, but decided to go with a generous application of a slightly thicker lubricant, GunCer (available from a site sponsor):
https://www.ballistol-shop.de/GunCer-Gun-Oil-with-Ceramic-Additives_B-S_873.html

So far no more stovepipes.

Here is an excerpt from article (link below) you might find helpful as well:

If the failure to eject malfunction is a recurring problem and it is not resolved by giving your weapon a good cleaning and proper lubrication treatment, it is best to just go ahead and replace the ejector and extractor springs as well as the extractor.

After looking at the most common stoppages and malfunctions of the AR-15, you really need to take away two things: The AR-15 functions best when kept clean and lubricated, don’t neglect basic rifle hygiene! Good quality AR-15 parts will save you a lot of trouble. Strong springs, components with quality finishes and parts that fit properly are essential for trouble free operation of the AR-15 weapon system.

https://www.wingtactical.com/how-to-fix-common-ar-15-malfunctions-and-stoppages/

Pax
Click to expand...

Thanks Pax.
I’ll see what BCL comes back with. It was a very short and not very happy gunnymoon and I’m seriously considering a return for refund.
Spectre
 
I want to upgrade my barrel and handguard but not sure what to order? What barrel extension/nut DPMS or armilite?? and DPMS high or low profile handguard ?? Spent 20 min reading through this sticky with no luck.
 
Dpms barrel extension so really almost any ar10 barrel that's readily out there will work. For handguard dpms high with armalite threads for the nut
 
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