Opinions??TIKKA T3 Lite Rifles

I owned several Tikkas over the years, they are all smooth and accurate.
The better finished (wood and metal) are, to my the LSA 55/65 series imported by Ithaca from 1969 to '77.

All Tikkas are based on the same platform, means the 55/65 action. Tikka masters the desing simplicity (many, like Chucky Hawky calls it cost turn-down, wich is right, but inaccurate) and even, for the period they were made, the oldest actions were "simplified".
With the T3, they introduced the easier strip-in-the-fieeld rifle I ever owned. You can dismount the bolt in about 1 minute, without any tools, if, let's say, you drop the rifle in the water.
The plastic parts (being the bolt shroud and the magazine) are made of fiber-reinforced polymers, wich are by means, more wear resistant than most soft steel (SAE 1020, 1035 - being the most common magazine material) magazines (and, yes, they are expensive). The synthetic stocks are definitely better than they've been in the '80's, and usually more rigid than their counterparts opf the same price range.
When I've been ready to get a "Sporter" or "Target" version, it was discountinued and I then ordered a HB SS Varmint, with a pich at the heart (I was anxious). I've been very pleased with the rifle (after a full 1b year wait for my cal. 6.5X55 SE - I am not hurry to get the rifle, I have plenty to play with, anyways) it's a tac driver, and can effectively withstand the heavy loads I am using for varmint and target shooting.
While it is not an art rifle, it's a very good, reliable, everyday use rifle.
 
I have a t3 hunter in 338 fed. The wood stock has nice figure and good fit. A feature i like is the bolt locks down when the safety is on, same as my Winchester.
As others have mentioned the trigger doesnt need any work out of the box. The barrel is very fast, factory loads chrono fastes than the box states. I belive that the chamber is precisely machined as two cartridges out of the 5 boxes of fed fusion i bought will not chamber. When i checked them with a cartridge headspace gauge they were .010 longer than the rest.
Once i have fired off the 5 boxes i will reload the correctly headstamped cases. Others have complained that you cant feed from the top, if so it must be cartridge specific as i have feed two boxes from the top at the bench with no problems.
Accuracy hasnt been established but in two trys for group in both case the first two shots were .5" and the third was a flyer making the groups1.5" im sure that was my fault.
If i was to try and fault the rifle, all i could say is the barrel isnt as polished as my other rifles. But as a precise economicaly priced hunting tool i think it cant be beat
 
It was mentioned that the mag length is restrictive on the T3's. In my .300 Mag Deluxe, I can't seat 180's and up in any Spitzer design to get within 30 thou of contacting the rifling. Does it matter? No. The inherent accuracy of the rifle still allows for playing with the loads, and I have yet to brew up anything the gun WON'T shoot under 1.25". Next goal is to find the loads for all the bullets I'll ever shoot that group in the same place. No math formulas can solve this one - it's all trial and error, but then that's all the fun, isn't it. Some shorter bullets I seat even farther back, cause maybe my thinking is a bit antiquated - I believe in seating to at least the bullet's diameter. Barnes says 2/3 diameter is enough and given the far less contact area of their bullets with the rifling would explain the ability to up the speed and according to them lower the pressure......but I digress. And I can top feed right into the pipe no problem, unlike some of the Mauser actions that will lock up tight if you try.
 
You're not that old thinker, SBTennex,
For a hunting cartridge, the bullet should be seated at least to 1 time the diameter of CONTACT with the neck. This means one should substract the linear taper lenght of any boattail bullet.
The reason for this being is having enough neck tension to hold the bullet in place.
Heavy recoil calibers should also have some free play in front of the magazine (or a snubing pad) to avoid damaging bullet noses.
 
Thanks so far guys! I knew I could count on those that share the sickness....Looks like the majority of posters are happy with or at least tolerant of the Tikka product. Even without firing a shot I like the weight and fit and as far as recoil my husky carcass (Doctors call us overweight) will absorb a lot so it doesn't worry me. Keep the good stuff coming.
 
at 5'10" and 230 lbs, my wife calls me "fluffy" and my mother calls me "Chunky" and big bone-ded, Recoil has never been too much of a concern with me. I found it pretty sharp with the .300 win mag I had, but that was more of a recoil pad issue, this guy with the decelerator on seems almost like a pussy cat now.
 
I recently picked up a T3 lite Stainless in 9.3x62
Topped it with a Burris Euro Diamond 1.5-6
Here's a 4 shot group at 100 yards using 57gr. of RL15 and throwing 250gr. Accubonds.
MVC-001F8.JPG
 
I bought one this year in .223 Rem (1/9 tw) for my 10 yr old, he loves the size and it shoots but finds it too light. On a brighter note , i've used it for the o.r.a intro days and the women love the size and fit of the little .223.
It shoots quite well at 300 yds with factory junk ammo.

M.
 
how can ANY centerfire rifle be "too light" for a 10 year old. Is he on steroids?? When I was 10, and a stocky 10 year old at that, I had more than enough weight to lug around with my "star" made in china single shot break barrel pellet gun. Sounds like he's gonna need a .50BMG by the time hes 14.
 
I bought the T3 lite in .223 because it was light. I picked up the Rem SPS and compared. The T3 just "felt right". Bolt moved very nice and smooth as glass. It's a Tac driver. Nice trigger that you can easily drop down with allen key. Only negative are the spare mag. price, and if you want to modify this, don't buy it. this firearm is an "out of the box' rifle (i added a scope, scope rings and bipod and one spare 6 shot clip).
 
Have a T3 ss in a 300 WSM. Kicks like a mule on the bench but is damn accurate and not too fussy with handloads. Don't notice recoil much in the field. Love it. It's a tool for the woods.
 
Tikkas get the thumbs up from me and the fellows I hunt with. I like my T3 Lite Stainless lefty in 6.5x55 Swedish and consider it well designed as a prairie walking gun. I likely will be getting more lefty Tikkas in the future - 30-06, 8x57 Mauser, 9.3x62 are some of the rounds I'm looking at.
 
i got the t3 camo stainless in 270 win. very,very accurate rifle!! looks and feels great too.....bolt is the smoothest i've ever came across!!
 
What scope mts are best? The opti locks look a little weird and $$$$$$$$$ What are Leupold's like and do they come in stainless?The 9.3x62 would give one a good lift in a T3 but I'd like one and a 6.5x55.........Harold
 
I'm using the Leupold two piece mounts. They are good. Not sure if they have a stainless version or not. The price of the Optilocks deterred me from considering them. I don't understand why they don't just make rings that go onto that dovetail. Why the two components on an optilock?
 
all i have ever used on my rifles are weaver bases and rings....any gunsmith i ever asked if they'd hold up or not they just laugh in my face. personally i dont feel the need to spend a fortune on rings n mounts....the tikkas come drilled and tapped for the weavers so why not....
 
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