Any trick for getting the piston out. Seems like the bayonet lug is in the way and didn't want to force it. It's still new![]()
Heh -- I removed the bayonet lug from mine...[hacksaw; mill file]. There may be a way of rotating the gas assembly so it's clear, but I'll leave that for someone else to explain. You can also remove the flash hider and mount it sideways, but then the vents will act weird since they're designed to direct gasses upward rather than sideways. My way was simplest...I don't care about bayonets. If I ever have to use a blade against zombies, it will be my trusty katana.![]()
Also reciever spec issues I have noted. Hence why the corrosive ammo and shorty rifle is $200 over market value.
Better to have a home made shorty and not have to deal with the reciever issues's and put up with the corrisve ammo. This deal with this corrosive ammo and rilfe combo I would pass one.
could be b/c the bayonet for the m14 is the M6
the m4 is for the US CARBINE M1
but even though your terminology is wrong, the PROPER bayonet still won't fit for the same reason- you NEED an 18.5 to 19 inch barrel
The first CanAm deal was a M14 shortie and a 1000 of Nork non-corrosive for $800I just read this thread but no one jumped in and said the ammo on the combo deal was non-corrosive. Where'd you hear differently? $200 over market value? What book is that from?
Okay getting a little off the op but I think you understand better my idea on it.
you DO lose some velocity with a shorter barrel, but on the other hand the shorter barrel is stiffer, and has less "whip" than a standard-however, with any m14 , it's all about "plinking" or hunting accuracy, as it was never designed as a TARGET gun in the first place , but a battle rifle-you'll never get target gun groups out of it- oh, sure, you may get "tight"- i can get moa out of mine, but not half moa- so you have to define "accurate"- and half of that equation is LOAD DEVELOPMENT- just like any rifle, or any barrel for that matter, it's only going to be accurate if you TAKE THE TIME and develop loads for it- most folks buy the "shorty" b/c they're willing to sacrifice the long end of the spectrum for handiness- even back in the day, there were lots of troops that wanted to lop that extra foot or so offthe end of the fn-
When I say "load development" I am talking about finding a load that offers good accuracy 1"-3" groups at 100 yards and is easy and cheap to produce (powder, brass, bullet) wise. Im not entering any competitions with this rifle I just wanna have some fun and maybe shoot some good groups in the process.
I am just undecided on what barrel length to choose for the 7.62x51 Nato round? Like I say it will be used at the range to punch paper, smack gongs, and destroy pumpkins. I just want to get good at shooting a service rifle or battle rifle the way a soldier would have been trained, I wanna be a good shot with the M-14.