Reloading shotgun hulls?

potashminer: I guess that would be me. I am a Canuck...so my reference to shot sizes is North American-based. I do agree with you though. Can be confusing. It would be so much better if there was a universal world standard for shot sizes. But as long as the current mix of Metric/Imperial measuring systems are around, we're stuck.

As for 'dram equivalent'....Since I'm an old fart that grew up around this system, I find it useful, in some instances. Especially when loading black powder shot shells. In which case, this information comes in handy.

One dram=27.3 grains. So....when I look at a box of smokeless shells that list a dram equivalent of say...2.5 drams...I know that I can load up an equivalent volume of Ffg bp(around 68-70 grains) and should attain a fairly similar velocity. Useful where the velocity of the shotshells isn't already listed on the box.

Or, when using a Lee scoop. The 4.3 gram Lee scoop, for example: (1 gram=15.4 grains) throws around 65-66 grains by volume, of Ffg. Knowing that, I can just go to the Lee scoop, confident in the knowledge that I'm about where I want to be with that particular load. Likewise, I can adjust the volumetric load up or down as needed, by going to a scoop above or below. Then can scoop and dump away... without having to measure each powder charge. I do that too, but the scoop is much faster. Then, I adjust my load column to suit.

For those not familar with loading black powder shotshells....the same measure is used to load both powder charge and shot payload by volume.
For instance: 70 grains Ffg powder/1 oz. shot payload. Approximate.

I don't often see dram equivalent listed on shotshell boxes very often anymore either, so this type of information might be redundant. Can come in handy at times, though.

Al

ps: 3macs1....I mostly use Hummason shot, and can't recall seeing much variation in shot sizes, either. Though I admit I haven't measured any. But don't doubt it could happen.
 
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3macs1 - I do not know how those makers can get their screening so "tight". But SAAMI apparently came up with the acceptable tolerances - I have read posts on CGN from people who spent time with calliper and spilled out bag of shot and were measuring pellets - can not say that I have bothered to do so myself, except to visually notice some variance in the diameter of pellets, even in a bag of shot with Hummason brand name on it. I have never knowingly used Lawrence made shot - they might be different.
 
I'm going to join the fun - dusting off my old MEC 250 (purchased new in 1962!) My interest is primarily 12g slugs at this time.....ASM Gualandi slug mold from TATVCanada to start the fun!
 
I have honestly never seen that in my life but only used lawrence or Hummason shot and have it all from BB to 12

?? where do you get 7 shot in canada for .10 how about 7 1/2 at 9.5

I have never found to buy .10" (#7) shot in Canada. Many will be in disbelief, but I bought screens - two grids - one rejects .105" and one rejects .095" (I think) - so I have been hand screening - start with commercial shot - to get the .095 to .105 that I want. Could not demonstrate, one iota, that it makes a difference in what I hit or miss - 99.9% sure is just "busy work" - just a thing an old guy does to pass cold Manitoba winter days ...

But my main point was meant to be that when USA guy John Barsness recommends #7 shot for pheasant, and similar British writer also says #7 shot - they are not referring to same size pellet. (by a whole 0.1 mm diameter) - as mentioned, likely is all "small potatoes" ...
 
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Potashminer: I admire your desire to get the most consistent shot possible, for your needs. That attention to detail is commendable. Whether it makes any difference on game....well....sometimes it's the knowing that it might make a difference....is often worth the effort.

Al

ps: Plus a good way to spend those long winter nights.
 
At work after filling some guard counter weights, we had a bag and half left. The boys were playing with it and the cloth bags split so I put it 3# coffee can, as it might have a use someday. I mic'ed it to see what it was . One was .082 and the other .083 . What a pain to mic. 2 thou under 8 1/2 BTW
 
I have never found to buy .10" (#7) shot in Canada. Many will be in disbelief, but I bought screens - two grids - one rejects .105" and one rejects .095" (I think) - so I have been hand screening - start with commercial shot - to get the .095 to .105 that I want. Could not demonstrate, one iota, that it makes a difference in what I hit or miss - 99.9% sure is just "busy work" - just a thing an old guy does to pass cold Manitoba winter days ...

But my main point was meant to be that when USA guy John Barsness recommends #7 shot for pheasant, and similar British writer also says #7 shot - they are not referring to same size pellet. (by a whole 0.1 mm diameter) - as mentioned, likely is all "small potatoes" ...

You sure could not. Like .1 mm is .oo39 " no target or game will even notice that difference
Yep too much time on your hands :) Like me right now
I hate the winters now
take care
 
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Could not demonstrate, one iota, that it makes a difference in what I hit or miss - 99.9% sure is just "busy work" - just a thing an old guy does to pass cold Manitoba winter days ...

Well, I'm please to report that I'm not yet old-enough, to be bored-enough, to sort birdshots by size :p
(But I did try it for 177 pellets, and sort 22lr by rim thickness)
 
That entire thing started with idea to make my own shot dribbler - melt wheel weights, etc. I have some inserts from eBay that should drip out molten lead drips that roll down a ramp and drop into a coolant, results in shot about that size, I am told - plans, etc. found on Internet. Then how to sort / classify product - as result of assistance of another CGN'r, I was able to buy those two screens. That was about all that got done - for all the commotion involved, I just decided that I could buy commercial shot, even at current prices. Result is a box of parts and those two screens - may as well use them for "something".

As mentioned above - #7.5 or #6 sounds correct. Except I will always feel I have the wrong size, regardless which I take. When I was younger and walked pastures for sharp tail grouse, I got many with 12 gauge and #6 shot - did not have much luck with #7.5 shot. Should not be a difference, really, but little thing in back of my head says there is ... Might have been as simple as more a even pattern in that gun with #6 than with #7.5 - did not know about pattern board back then - so never did pattern it. I attributed it all to the shot size used.
 
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huntingfish: While you're waiting, be sure to check the online: Hodgdon Reloading Data Center. A good resource. Lots of solid load data.

Alliant Powder also has loading data which will be of interest. Worth checking out.

Another online resource worth viewing: Powder Burn Rate Chart. A good way to compare relative burning rates of available powders. **

Al

ps: ** Can come in handy when component supplies may be limited(today's situation). Useful reference for selecting and building loads from available components. Plus a good resource in understanding how powders relate to one and another.

This info will be in your manual, too.

In my mind, any resource that adds to a person's knowledge base, is always valuable.
 
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Powder Burn Rate Chart This would be to know which powder one could use instead of the specified powder in a recipe? I thought we weren't allowed to do that? ;-)

I just got my Lyman book! Fun reading ahead ;-)

David
 
The powder burn rate chart is just that, nothing else. If you look at the Hodgdon reloading site, you can see that they offer various recipes of powder and primer for a given hull and wad combination. This is a very comprehensive resource, albeit only for Hodgdon, IMR and Winchester powders. BTW - There is a MEC 20 gage for sale in the EE.
 
The powder burn rate charts information is mostly useful in rifle and to a lesser degree in pistol reloading. In reference to shotgun loading it can give you some optional powders to research for published loading data in search of a safe, tested published load to meet your requirements but it does not imply substitution for another powder. Use tested published loads exactly as published for shotgun loading. Shotgun barrels are very thin, small seemingly unimportant variations in components can have a large percentage of pressure variations, most shotguns are designed to safely utilize ammunition up to the modest safe standard maximum load, no more. Hey, it’s your gun, your fingers, your eyes, follow the rules or accept the consequences.
 
The powder burn rate chart is just that, nothing else. If you look at the Hodgdon reloading site, you can see that they offer various recipes of powder and primer for a given hull and wad combination. This is a very comprehensive resource, albeit only for Hodgdon, IMR and Winchester powders. BTW - There is a MEC 20 gage for sale in the EE.

agree 100%
 
huntingfish: No....As Ashcroft accurately explains, the powder burn rate chart does not imply that you can substitute powders at random. Simply because they are close together on the chart. It is a useful reference tool for comparing powders(From different manufacturers, for example). But only for their relative burn rate.
Still, this information can be useful when sourcing load data from your manual. (see below).

Once you're more familiar with how the reloading process works, it will begin to make sense.

Note: If you refer back to Post # 21, I did mention that mixing/matching components randomly was never a good idea. This includes powders.

All loads in your manual will be safe to use. Likewise: Any published data from a reliable source, ie: Powder manufacturer.

Otherwise: Don't do it! . Always stick to published load data.

Your manual should explain that aspect thoroughly. Happy reading!

Al

ps: This exercise may help illustrate the point: Pick a load in your manual.* For example: 12 gauge. 1 oz. shot. Federal Gold Medal hull. Federal 12SO wad. Federal 209A primer.
Under powder info, you should see several choices, ie: Red Dot. Titewad. Clays. (Likely others too, but these for now)
Look up and compare these three powders on the powder burn rate chart. They should be fairly close to each other.
Now, search for loads using all three powders. Which deliver about the same velocity. Plus use the identical components(wad, primer etc,).
See how they compare?

Hypothetical scenario: You may have started out loading with Red Dot. But running short, so need more. Unfortunately, the local gun store only has Clays on the shelf. But has everything else you need.
According to the loading manual, Clays should deliver about the same performance as Red Dot. Based on your selected load criteria.
You may safely substitute this powder, instead.
See how it works? Understanding powder burn rates can be a useful tool in your arsenal.

* Load for illustrative purposes, only. Based on actual load data from manual.
 
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I was just gifted a MEC Sizemaster 77 in 12Ga.
It has a 1-1/8oz charge bar and a #31 bushing which dumps 26.5 grains of 473.
I was also given:
150 new Winchester AA hulls
250 Winchester wads (1-1/8oz)
800 primers 500CCI, 300Winchester
70lbs #8 shot
1/2lb Winchester 473 powder.

I just placed an order for a 7/8oz charge bar, a new powder bottle, and some rubber grommets.
The grommets in the press are harder than stone.
I’m not ordering any bushings just yet since I can 3D print them.

How is Clays for 7/8oz target loads?
I have a line on some Winchester WAA12L wads.
 
Have been reloading 12 gauge hulls for years and really enjoy it. I do stick to various buckshot sizes and different slugs. I cast my own shot and slugs which is also great fun and I do buckshot in #4, single aught in both .310 and .320 diameter, double aught .330, and triple aught in .355. Don’t think it would ever make sense for me to load target loads but ymmv. I just target shoot with them but have been getting great tight patterns out of buckshot to 60 yards so far and slugs to 100 yards.

Components I get from CGN for once fired hulls, new primed hulls from Sportèque and primers/powders wherever I can find them including on CGN. It’s an adventure for sure but I’ve done pretty good so far. First rule is if you find a component you like/need, but as much as you can as it likely won’t always be there.

I started with a Lee Loadall, now use both the load all and a Mec jr., both are great for me. I roll crimp wherever I can but do fold in some cases.

Great hobby imho.

If you are interested in buckshot potential, check out YouTube (bubbarountreeoutdoors and Roger Adkins)
 
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