When the snow clears up a bit I will do some experimenting with my PCs. I have both equipped with a TRS-25. I haven't had any noticeable shifts yet despite many thousands of rounds between the two. I don't often actually use the takedown feature though.
Ruger PC Carbine
- Thread starter wayupnorth
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I know the matches I saw shot with them was ipsc with a pcc division, it'd take a big shift to make a big difference shooting at those distances
I could see it mattering if theirs specific matches for them that might go out to 100yrds... but you don't really need to be taking down the rifle or a regularly QDing an optic to head to the range for a competition either...
I note that you may think I'm knocking the gun when I called them a plinker, but I really do enjoy the one I have.
If I can find a competition I can use mine in, I likely will. Always good to be at the range.
My other use for mine will be to take into the woods with me. Unless I get into a 100yrd gun fight with someone, a small poi shift won't ever be noticed.
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My comments were more directed at wayupnorth's concerns about removing his Optic then remounting it. I don;t concern myself about any differences due to taking the gun down between range visits. Try any IDPA club close to you. PCC is a recognized Division and is shot at most IDPA club matches. Fun gun to run IDPA stages. Shorter carbines likely do better in that sport but fun is fun which most of us are allabout anyway.
Take Care
Bob
Take Care
Bob
I've been impressed what I can do with a bit of magnification out to 100m or so. My thought was maybe putting a fixed low power scope on for the 100m stuff, with a see through channel on the mount to allow for use of the irons for short range (or maybe in the event of a loss of zero with the optic due to multiple take downs).
Unlike what I'm hearing from others, I take mine down all the time for storage and travel, to me that's a key feature of this gun. Otherwise, there are lots of other 9mm carbines out there, including ones that take Glock mags. I have one see-through riser that allows for use of the irons, but not only is it not really practical for mounting a scope, the QD wing nut is so low it won't rotate as it comes in contact with the receiver. I'm interested to see if anyone has found a set of rings or one-piece cantilever mount that has a useable see-through channel. As I said in my earlier post, all of mine are too high or too low.
Unlike what I'm hearing from others, I take mine down all the time for storage and travel, to me that's a key feature of this gun. Otherwise, there are lots of other 9mm carbines out there, including ones that take Glock mags. I have one see-through riser that allows for use of the irons, but not only is it not really practical for mounting a scope, the QD wing nut is so low it won't rotate as it comes in contact with the receiver. I'm interested to see if anyone has found a set of rings or one-piece cantilever mount that has a useable see-through channel. As I said in my earlier post, all of mine are too high or too low.
Out to 150m the Carbine does pretty well. Past that the drop becomes an issue very quickly.
Not on a Ruger, but it shouldn't make too much difference. Here's a shot of the back of a Burris QD P.E.P.R. mount with a 1" tube scope, a ruler held so zero lines up with the outer peak of the Picatinny rail. Though from the slightly elevated angle of the camera looking more through the hole than along the rail, it looks like the end of the ruler lines up with the top of the rail, it doesn't. Depending on your irons they might be visible through that square hole. I can certainly see what's in front of the rifle looking through that hole, though on my TNW Aero that means holding my eye pretty low, not really a cheek weld sort of hold.
And yeah, I've seen various people complaining the Burris QD mounts don't hold zero. Well, so far mine's been on and off a bunch of times and I haven't seen any zero shift. Keep it on there fairly tight. Maybe people aren't using Loc-tite on their adjustable tension nuts? Maybe they're enjoying having the flip levers set up a bit too easy to open? Don't know, can only speak from my experience, but it seems about as solid as any other scope mount.
And yeah, I've seen various people complaining the Burris QD mounts don't hold zero. Well, so far mine's been on and off a bunch of times and I haven't seen any zero shift. Keep it on there fairly tight. Maybe people aren't using Loc-tite on their adjustable tension nuts? Maybe they're enjoying having the flip levers set up a bit too easy to open? Don't know, can only speak from my experience, but it seems about as solid as any other scope mount.
Well that's unfortunate. I'd suggest machining/filing out a bit either up or down as needed... but you'd run into the scope blocking if up, and getting a bunch of aluminum out from the bottom of the channel looks like a very awkward piece of work. Well, best of luck in your search.
wayupnorth put me on to this case.
h ttps://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B015K32W02/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I went with the green version. Price is right. Mine should be here on Friday, the same day my Skorpian arrives.
Take Care
Bob
JACKSMYDOG
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Haldimand County, Ontario
I have about 4K though mine now and it has been great. My only real complaint is the height of the iron sights. IMO, they would be perfect at 1/4 inch higher, but up to 1/2 inch would be okay too. As is, they can't be properly viewed though any RDS I have tried. The TRS25 is very close, but not quite there. I can cheat and still hit 12 inch plates at 100y, but can't truly see the sights when on target. The additional height would allow dozens of micro optics to be lower co-witnessed. An easy answer is a QR RDS, but it doesn't take much additional mounting height before I want a cheek riser too, at which point the irons become difficult to use if required. This really is a minor issue, my work around is that I carry an allen key in the stock pouch and can pop the TRS25 off if it fails.
I like the almost traditional rifle look it has, and am leaving it with factory furniture. I have a cheap stock pouch on mine, which holds 3 Glock 26 mags. I made a small opening on top stitching of the velcro inside the zippered pouch, and carry extra 2025, and the RDS allen key behind the velcro. Extra CR2 batteries are in a small sleeve sewn into the corner of the main pouch.
The stock pouch was under $14 on Amazon.ca search for Buttstock-Shells-Holder-Hunting-Shooting
I don't mind that the rail is small, and you can't use big lights and a sling at the same time. The rail is perfect for sling with a pistol tac-light, which I have a many. I use a Streamlight TLR4 on this gun, because very small/lightweight, it only uses one battery (CR2 even smaller than CR123) and you can lock it off with a 1/4 turn of the head unit, so no accidental use when in pack. Another nice thing about pistol tac-lights is QR with tool-less tightening.
Glock 26 mags are perfect for non-competition use of this gun. Enough exposure to grab if needed to pull them out of the magwell, lots of spring pressure for feeding and bolt hold open, compact enough that you can carry many extras, and can carry a mag in a bladetech pouch/teklok on my belt all day without it ever driving into my hip, no matter how far I lean. I shaved the pouch a little to get a little more real estate when drawing the mag.
Overall this gun is a great fit for my needs, and I am very happy with it. Sight height being the only thing I would really change (and 10mm!).
I like the almost traditional rifle look it has, and am leaving it with factory furniture. I have a cheap stock pouch on mine, which holds 3 Glock 26 mags. I made a small opening on top stitching of the velcro inside the zippered pouch, and carry extra 2025, and the RDS allen key behind the velcro. Extra CR2 batteries are in a small sleeve sewn into the corner of the main pouch.
The stock pouch was under $14 on Amazon.ca search for Buttstock-Shells-Holder-Hunting-Shooting
I don't mind that the rail is small, and you can't use big lights and a sling at the same time. The rail is perfect for sling with a pistol tac-light, which I have a many. I use a Streamlight TLR4 on this gun, because very small/lightweight, it only uses one battery (CR2 even smaller than CR123) and you can lock it off with a 1/4 turn of the head unit, so no accidental use when in pack. Another nice thing about pistol tac-lights is QR with tool-less tightening.
Glock 26 mags are perfect for non-competition use of this gun. Enough exposure to grab if needed to pull them out of the magwell, lots of spring pressure for feeding and bolt hold open, compact enough that you can carry many extras, and can carry a mag in a bladetech pouch/teklok on my belt all day without it ever driving into my hip, no matter how far I lean. I shaved the pouch a little to get a little more real estate when drawing the mag.
Overall this gun is a great fit for my needs, and I am very happy with it. Sight height being the only thing I would really change (and 10mm!).
What ammo are you guys running in your ruger? My buddy is about the pull the trigger on 1000 rounds and I don't know much about factory ammo as I reload. We ran some geco 124 grain, browning 115 grain, and some federal steel case. The geco was the most reliable but we experience a lot of stoppages with the browning 115 grain. Any advice on your fave ammo is appreciated.
I just got mine, and its a little weird about releasing the bolt after a mag change. It seems there are two mechanisms for holding the bolt back. One up front, triggered by the mag follower, and the manual one just forward of the trigger guard.
The problem I have is that the one activated by the mag follower, does not want to release after the mag is removed. I have to pull the bolt further rearward and hammer it back and forth multiple times before the bolt catch activated by the mag follower drops and permits the bolt to come forward. It moves smoothly and isn't gummed up by oil or grease. I move it up and down with my fingers and it moves smoothly. But it should drop when the bolt is pulled back and released, and it doesn't, unless you rock the bolt back and forth multiple times.
The problem I have is that the one activated by the mag follower, does not want to release after the mag is removed. I have to pull the bolt further rearward and hammer it back and forth multiple times before the bolt catch activated by the mag follower drops and permits the bolt to come forward. It moves smoothly and isn't gummed up by oil or grease. I move it up and down with my fingers and it moves smoothly. But it should drop when the bolt is pulled back and released, and it doesn't, unless you rock the bolt back and forth multiple times.
HassanZeDragon
Member
- Location
- Quebec City
Anyone knows where i could buy OEM ruger parts?
I'm kinda interested in Bubba'ing and oem stock to add a pistol grip and a collapsible stock
I'm kinda interested in Bubba'ing and oem stock to add a pistol grip and a collapsible stock
Anyone knows where i could buy OEM ruger parts?
I'm kinda interested in Bubba'ing and oem stock to add a pistol grip and a collapsible stock
there will probably be some on the EE as after market parts become available and people upgrade or downgrade with them.
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