Rust Blue-Final Soak in Oil *PICS UP*

B

blauber

Regular
Rating - 98.8%
80   1   0
Location
Southern Ontario
I have read that once the final pass is complete to soak parts in oil for a week. Some say to soak using USED motor oil, others say clean gun oil.

What's the recommendation from those in the know? Is there any benefit in leaving parts soak in a warm environment to let the blue "set"?

I've done a rust blue before and the results were great. Some say 5-7 passes but I went for 3 on a project with good results. One article mentioned the fewer passes the better as the result is a shinier patina (vs. more of a matte blue for increasing passes). Any thoughts?
 
Last edited:
Once I'm happy with my results, I slather on a heavy coat of new transmission oil and leave the rifle for a few days. I periodically check for coverage and reapply oil as needed. At the end of he process, I wipe the oil off and apply a coat of paste wax and I'm done.

I found that with more passes(6-7), the finish is more matte than when only 2-3 passes are done. But this also depends on the quality of the polish, the steel, the chemical used, the duration of the rust and the rust environment(RH and temp).

I have had some rifles take a beautiful blue after only one pass while others require multiple passes just to get full coverage(pre-64 M-70 receiver). I never stop at one pass though.

I started getting better results when I shortened the rust time in an invironment of 85-90% RH at 90*F. I'm down to 2-3 hours/pass and normally limit myself to 3-4 passes if possible.
 
Gunsmith from the UK who gave me his recipe for rust blueing said used motor oil. He tels be we works on high end shotguns and gets good results.

I haven't tried it yet but as soon as I get time I will be. And my Classic rt hand drive mini needs an oil change.

Chris
 
What is the reason for the extended soaking in oil?

Once the oil covers the blue, it's doing it's job of preventing oxygen from getting to the blueing (which in turn prevents the oxygen from getting to the underlying steel). That is, it seems to me you could wipe a coat of oil on with a rag, and get the same results as a long-term soaking.
 
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. My first and only project turned out well using clean Hoppes Gun Oil. As this is my second project ever, I want to try something that is failsafe-will give the transmission oil a go and post results in a week or so!
 
blauber said:
Thanks for the replies gentlemen. My first and only project turned out well using clean Hoppes Gun Oil. As this is my second project ever, I want to try something that is failsafe-will give the transmission oil a go and post results in a week or so!
Click to expand...

I'm not really sure if it matters what kind of oil is used. I use transmission oil because I have a lot of it.

The oil serves a number of purpoes. It stops any residual rusting that may take place after the final carding. Also, it enables a through final cleaning of the metal. After the metal has been oiled for a while, I scrub it with a rough paper towel. The towel usually comes away black with crud that was missed in the final carding. Sorry I forgot to mention this tidbit in my first post.:redface:

I then wax the metal.
 
Mauser98 said:
Once I'm happy with my results, I slather on a heavy coat of new transmission oil and leave the rifle for a few days. I periodically check for coverage and reapply oil as needed. At the end of he process, I wipe the oil off and apply a coat of paste wax and I'm done.

I found that with more passes(6-7), the finish is more matte than when only 2-3 passes are done. But this also depends on the quality of the polish, the steel, the chemical used, the duration of the rust and the rust environment(RH and temp).

I have had some rifles take a beautiful blue after only one pass while others require multiple passes just to get full coverage(pre-64 M-70 receiver). I never stop at one pass though.

I started getting better results when I shortened the rust time in an invironment of 85-90% RH at 90*F. I'm down to 2-3 hours/pass and normally limit myself to 3-4 passes if possible.
Click to expand...

I think that you should do a tutorial on CGN for those of us who want to try rust bluing.

I'll probably end up messing it up and then sending it off to a guy like you that knows to redo it for me.
 
BigUglyMan said:
I think that you should do a tutorial on CGN for those of us who want to try rust bluing.

I'll probably end up messing it up and then sending it off to a guy like you that knows to redo it for me.
Click to expand...

There's lots of tutorials online and on youtube for slow rust blueing. The blueing agent I hear most highly recommended Is Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and Degreaser - can be had via Cabelas. They have a fairly comprehensive set of instructions at http://www.laurelmountainforge.com/barrel_brown_inst.htm.
 
Yes, there are, but that's certainly not the same as having someone who really knows how to do it point out the traps and pitfalls of the process. I have one of his rifles done with his rust blue, and second BUM's motion to have Mauser98 do a tutorial here.

P5230004.jpg


P5230005.jpg


P5230003.jpg


P9120043.jpg


P9120046.jpg


Ted
 
Last edited:
Very, very nice. It looks as though you can see the blue reflected on that job-instead of a straight black.

By brother made up some solution that I'm going to try-however its about 4 years old now. He travelled to a chemical retailer to get the stuff, maybe it's Neider's formula? He actually got an old horseshoe made of iron and let it soak in the acids. There's also some copper sulfate in it so you can see where you apply it easily. I have never tried over the counter formula but know that most may be hard to come by in Canada.

There's a thread on here that describes the rust process quite nicely, but I imagine a rust blue guru has special tricks that help the process. I've heard warming the metal before applying the rust solution is a big help-it worked for me. This is why I wanted some opinions on the final soak-seems anything from motor, transmission to used to clean oil could be used, but I'm sure one works better than the others.
 
Got Juice? said:
i would recommend not using transmission fluid since it is paraffin based
Click to expand...

You realize that paraffin is just a name for long chain carbon molecules. Because oils have a blend different weights of carbon molecules, so in a sense all oils have paraffins, even diesel fuel. (it is the heavy paraffins that solidify when diesel gets really cold).

Besides, it is exactly those paraffins that provide protection to the finish. Light paraffins are a very low melting temperature wax. By low melting temp, meaning room temperature (I think, will need to look it up to confirm ). Lighter hydrocarbons in the mix also act as solvents for the heavier molecules, keeping the mix fluid at lower temperatures
 
Last edited:
Well I bought some cheap ATF D/M fluid at Canadian Tire-parrafin is a long chain carbon molecule, the oils are shorter chain (based on my recollection of orgainic chemisty). I guess the real question is, what does soaking in oil for a few days accomplish? I imagine it quenches the rusting completely and doesn't allow oxygen to permeate the surface for the first few days.

Does it do anything to add to the blue?
 
SandRoad said:
You realize that paraffin is just a name for long chain carbon molecules. Because oils have a blend different weights of carbon molecules, so in a sense all oils have paraffins, even diesel fuel. (it is the heavy paraffins that solidify when diesel gets really cold).

Besides, it is exactly those paraffins that provide protection to the finish. Light paraffins are a very low melting temperature wax. By low melting temp, meaning room temperature (I think, will need to look it up to confirm ). Lighter hydrocarbons in the mix also act as solvents for the heavier molecules, keeping the mix fluid at lower temperatures
Click to expand...

Good points. And noted. I only mentioned it because a mild heat application might complicate things :)
Being in diesel performance. Motors. Transmissions etc, I unfortunately am on intimate terms with fluids lol
 
Wow...usually threads around here deteriorate into name calling and bear defense. I've been around a long time and can't recall ever seeing a thread descend into chemistry!:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom