SKS field stripping 101,corrosive ammo cleaning,lubrication *updated*

After shooting the old military ammo thru mine I clean it with Windex as the Ammonia cuts thru the corrosive nature of the primers out of them extremely well. After its dry I then use the reg gun oil and Hoppe's No. 9 like a normal rifle cleanup. Seems to work well for mine .
 
After shooting the old military ammo thru mine I clean it with Windex as the Ammonia cuts thru the corrosive nature of the primers out of them extremely well. After its dry I then use the reg gun oil and Hoppe's No. 9 like a normal rifle cleanup. Seems to work well for mine .
Its a misconception that ammonia neutralize the salt, the only reason windex work its because of the water content, water dissolve and flush salts. But the important its that you found your way to clean your rifle well:)
Joce
 
Its a misconception that ammonia neutralize the salt, the only reason windex work its because of the water content, water dissolve and flush salts. But the important its that you found your way to clean your rifle well:)
Joce

Agree. Nothing works better than water to remove salt. Wash, dry well and oil. :)
 
First SKS

Thanks for this "how to". I just picked up my first SKS and this thread helped me take apart my SKS. Great pic's and awesome descriptions.

I have a question though, how do you remove the front sight? Is it even removable?
 
I mean the rear site.

Can be removed. On a russian SKS, there,s a very small pin that must be drifted out, after you press at the front of the sight and pull it to the rear. If its a chinese one, its possible that there,s no pin to drift, only press on the front and pull the sight to the rear. If you only want to remove it for cleaning, its easier to take some solvent and a small brush than removing the sight.
Joce
 
How far down do you have to strip the gun for the initial cosmoline cleaning?
All I did was remove the rear cover and gas tube, clean out the opened action, bolt assembly, gas tube and rear cover.
Is it safe to fire now, or do I have to get the crap out of the trigger group too?
 
How far down do you have to strip the gun for the initial cosmoline cleaning?
All I did was remove the rear cover and gas tube, clean out the opened action, bolt assembly, gas tube and rear cover.
Is it safe to fire now, or do I have to get the crap out of the trigger group too?

You should get ALL of it off.

I took my trigger group, and a bunch of other parts, and soaked them in WD-40 in a plastic container. Then I washed them all with soap and really hot water, and a toothbrush.

Then, I got rid of the last traces using brake cleaning spray.

Finally, a coating of gun oil on everything to protect it. I used "Outers" gun oil and it seems to just dry up and dissappear after a while, so it doesn't leave the gun oily.

One thing about the brake cleaing spray. If it contains perchloroethylene (aka tetrachloroethylene), it can form hydrochloric acid when mixed with water. This is not an issue if you make sure to spray parts really well to displace the water, or let them dry first. You definitely wouldn't want to spray a wet gun, and then leave it for any length of time with a mixture of water and brake cleaner. (only if it's the perchloroethylene type)

Reactivity Profile
Tetrachloroethylene decomposes upon heating and exposure to UV light to give phosgene and HCl. Reacts violently with finely dispersed light metals (aluminum) and zinc. [Handling Chemicals Safely 1980 p. 887]. Mixtures with finely divided barium or lithium metal can detonate [ASESB Pot. Incid. 39. 1968; Chem. Eng. News 46(9):38. 1968]. Decomposes very slowly in water to form trichloroacetic acid and hydrochloric acid
 
How far down do you have to strip the gun for the initial cosmoline cleaning?
All I did was remove the rear cover and gas tube, clean out the opened action, bolt assembly, gas tube and rear cover.
Is it safe to fire now, or do I have to get the crap out of the trigger group too?

Honestly, I think you owe it to yourself to break the gun down as far as possible for a good cleaning/familiarization session. Pay particular attention to the firing pin. After cleaning my bolt for the first time, I figured that the pin was rattling around pretty good and didn't need disassembled to clean the channel it rides in. I eventually got spooked by slam fire horror stories and removed the FP for cleaning. I was taken aback by how much crap was still inside the FP channel even though the pin rattled when the bolt was shaken.
My .02

As well I'd just like to say a big thank you to the contributing members on this site. It is amazing how much I have learned in the short span of time that I have been a member of CGN. A treasure trove of info at my finger tips. Truly a world class site!!
 
I meticulously clean my SKS after every use, but...

I didn't know about removing the extension under the rear sight...uh-oh, should be pretty corroded by now :eek:

Thanks, off to clean things up!
 
Thank you for the info/lesson. Bought my SKS yesterday and stripped it and cleaned last night...
The latch that opens up gas assembly.... During reassembly, it won't go back all the way down. Has anybody else had this problem? Did I out the gas piston on wrong? Or is that just how it is? I removed it and put it back a few times, and every time the exact same thing...it's locked just not all the way down...should I be worried or is this fine?
 
Thank you for the info/lesson. Bought my SKS yesterday and stripped it and cleaned last night...
The latch that opens up gas assembly.... During reassembly, it won't go back all the way down. Has anybody else had this problem? Did I out the gas piston on wrong? Or is that just how it is? I removed it and put it back a few times, and every time the exact same thing...it's locked just not all the way down...should I be worried or is this fine?

so by not being all the way down do you mean the latch isnt locked into the indent? if the gas tube is on there really isnt anything to screw up as the half circle pin flat site is up so there shouldnt be anything restricting the latch from locking in the indent
 
Thank you for the info/lesson. Bought my SKS yesterday and stripped it and cleaned last night...
The latch that opens up gas assembly.... During reassembly, it won't go back all the way down. Has anybody else had this problem? Did I out the gas piston on wrong? Or is that just how it is? I removed it and put it back a few times, and every time the exact same thing...it's locked just not all the way down...should I be worried or is this fine?
Make sure the gas tube/handguard is well seated at the rear. If not seated well, the latch will be hard or will not close.
Joce
 
I use brake cleaner to clean out my SKS after a trip to the range. I strip everything down, shoot brake cleaner down the barrel and gas tube and then spray it over the trigger group and a few other areas. I then run patches through the barrel and gas tube with #9 on them and take rags and soak them in #9 to wipe down and scrub out all the rest of the parts. I then spray some gun oil on a few select areas and re assemble. Shot the SKS about 10 times with at least 100 rounds a trip and so far I have noticed no corrosion at all. Makes pretty quick work.
 
Hello guys...I got a Norinco SKS awhile ago and finally got around to cleaning all the cosmo off of it. Due to some unforseen circumstances I didn't get to re-assemble it after cleaning for a couple weeks and now I'm afraid I might have lost a part and have a spring left which I can't remember where it goes...stupid I know but I guess if I can find where it goes I'll never forget again. Anyone on here have some insight for me and can help me out?
I've added a few pics just to give you an idea of how big the spring is. I haven't been able to find any detailed drawings online anywhere.
Thanks

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