Haha, I call your plus 1 and raise you 1
This site fills the void when I am sitting at work and can't go out shooting.
I don't take anything too seriously, especially on here. I like it when things get going, it's all in good fun
SU16 barrell crack.????
- Thread starter Brianma65
- Start date
Haha, I call your plus 1 and raise you 1
This site fills the void when I am sitting at work and can't go out shooting.
I don't take anything too seriously, especially on here. I like it when things get going, it's all in good fun
Haha, I call your plus 1 and raise you 1
This site fills the void when I am sitting at work and can't go out shooting.
I don't take anything too seriously, especially on here. I like it when things get going, it's all in good fun
Op I honestly think you should scrap the gun, what buddy over here said about the XCR is true, but I do understand what it's like to be attached to a firearm you don't want to get rid of, even after you effed it up. DD M4V2 was her name, but that was another life, anyways I'm mostly here for Firearms news sometimes EE but I have yet to find something I like.
I'll defiantly be more careful, the XCR is ordered and Vault is going to see if KelTec will sell me a barrel and receiver ( with all the guts out of it). If the price is right , I'll get it, if not I'll sell it as a parts gun
The XCR-l comes with a 1/ 1/8 1/9 twist, 9-19 thinks the 1/8 twist is better and gave me a few thoughts on why. What diff do the 1/9 have over the 1/8 with 55g ammo. If I start to reload what diff will the heavier bullits have over the 55g , other than more hitting power. In other words ,why do you think the 1/8 twist is better and why do some people say it's not or doesn't make any difference. Is there any benefit to having a 1/9 over the 1/8?
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You can't overstabilize a bullet but the tighter the twist the more force the rifling takes as the bullet goes through. In theory this will wear out the rifling faster and create a lower muzzle velocity as the twist rate increases. I don't worry about those things as I'm sure I'll never put enough rounds through a barrel to ever worry about wearing one out and if I do then replacing a barrel is relatively cheap and easy. I don't think the velocity lost is going to be significant enough to worry about either.
What I do take into consideration is that since I want my ammo to feed out of an AR magazine I am limited to about 77 grain bullets. A 1:8 barrel is more than enough to stabilize the 77gr pills and I don't see the need to go any tighter so given a choice I would go with 1:8 but if all I had to pick from was 1:7 or 1:9 I would go with the 7 twist every time. Why limit yourself? This is less important with an XCR though as they are not known for great accuracy so chances are you won't be loading up a bunch of 77 grain bullets and shooting that rifle 500 yards.
The only thing you have to worry about with the 7 twist is if you are shooting very light and very thin jacketed varmint bullets at high velocity. Unless the bullet is built for the kind of RPM that it's going to have as it leaves the muzzle it's very possible it will come apart in the air shortly after clearing the muzzle.
My bolt action 223 is a 1:12 twist and I shoot 36 grain bullets through it and it does quite well with them but it's not suited well for long range shooting. If I ever re-barrel that rifle it will get a 1:7 barrel so I can start shooting long range with it and use 80+ grain bullets.
My AR is a 12 inch 1:8 twist and it shoots 77gr Black Hills match into sub moa groups at 100 yards. This actually sucks for me in a way because I didn't expect it to be able to shoot that well so now I will have to do a little load development for it and keep some heavier grain handloads in the stockpile for that rifle as well. I kinda preferred my AR to simply be fed bulk American Eagle and not worry about loading for it.
My non restricted ACR is also a 1:8 twist but I haven't found a handload that will do sub moa yet. Development continues whenever I have time to get out shooting
People that say it does not make a difference are wrong, it makes a huge difference but that difference depends on what you want your rifle to be able to do.
If you are only going to shoot 55gr Norinco garbage ammo then any twist rate will do since very few rifles out there will group that junk into less that 3 moa at 100yds.
If you want to shoot long range which would require a long (heavy) bullet then you will need a tighter twist barrel to stabilize that round at longer ranges.
The advantages of a 80 grain bullet over a 55 grain bullet are small at 100 yards other than as you mentioned a little more kinetic energy but the advantages are huge when you start shooting that 80 grain bullet beyond 500 yards. The increase in mass and ballistic coefficient allows it to travel further with less velocity loss, it doesn't get pushed around by the wind as easily, and it retains more energy further out than the 55 grain.
For use on an XCR you really can't go wrong with a 1:7, 1:8 or 1:9 twist, the rifle is not a sniper or DMR rifle, and chances are you won't be shooting it beyond 300 yards. 55 or 62 grain loads will probably be it's primary food and any of those barrels will be fine for that.
The best advice I can give you is that instead of buying a bunch of tacticool crap for the rifle and hanging junk off the rails you spend that money on ammo and shoot it more. Trigger time will make you a better shot more than any gizmo or fancy stock will.
Thanks for the input , I only use the rifle for punching holes in paper, maybe a coyote down the rd. i do plan on reloading some day. I've only been abl to get 55g AE and some 40g win.You can't overstabilize a bullet but the tighter the twist the more force the rifling takes as the bullet goes through. In theory this will wear out the rifling faster and create a lower muzzle velocity as the twist rate increases. I don't worry about those things as I'm sure I'll never put enough rounds through a barrel to ever worry about wearing one out and if I do then replacing a barrel is relatively cheap and easy. I don't think the velocity lost is going to be significant enough to worry about either.
What I do take into consideration is that since I want my ammo to feed out of an AR magazine I am limited to about 77 grain bullets. A 1:8 barrel is more than enough to stabilize the 77gr pills and I don't see the need to go any tighter so given a choice I would go with 1:8 but if all I had to pick from was 1:7 or 1:9 I would go with the 7 twist every time. Why limit yourself? This is less important with an XCR though as they are not known for great accuracy so chances are you won't be loading up a bunch of 77 grain bullets and shooting that rifle 500 yards.
The only thing you have to worry about with the 7 twist is if you are shooting very light and very thin jacketed varmint bullets at high velocity. Unless the bullet is built for the kind of RPM that it's going to have as it leaves the muzzle it's very possible it will come apart in the air shortly after clearing the muzzle.
My bolt action 223 is a 1:12 twist and I shoot 36 grain bullets through it and it does quite well with them but it's not suited well for long range shooting. If I ever re-barrel that rifle it will get a 1:7 barrel so I can start shooting long range with it and use 80+ grain bullets.
My AR is a 12 inch 1:8 twist and it shoots 77gr Black Hills match into sub moa groups at 100 yards. This actually sucks for me in a way because I didn't expect it to be able to shoot that well so now I will have to do a little load development for it and keep some heavier grain handloads in the stockpile for that rifle as well. I kinda preferred my AR to simply be fed bulk American Eagle and not worry about loading for it.
My non restricted ACR is also a 1:8 twist but I haven't found a handload that will do sub moa yet. Development continues whenever I have time to get out shooting
People that say it does not make a difference are wrong, it makes a huge difference but that difference depends on what you want your rifle to be able to do.
If you are only going to shoot 55gr Norinco garbage ammo then any twist rate will do since very few rifles out there will group that junk into less that 3 moa at 100yds.
If you want to shoot long range which would require a long (heavy) bullet then you will need a tighter twist barrel to stabilize that round at longer ranges.
The advantages of a 80 grain bullet over a 55 grain bullet are small at 100 yards other than as you mentioned a little more kinetic energy but the advantages are huge when you start shooting that 80 grain bullet beyond 500 yards. The increase in mass and ballistic coefficient allows it to travel further with less velocity loss, it doesn't get pushed around by the wind as easily, and it retains more energy further out than the 55 grain.
For use on an XCR you really can't go wrong with a 1:7, 1:8 or 1:9 twist, the rifle is not a sniper or DMR rifle, and chances are you won't be shooting it beyond 300 yards. 55 or 62 grain loads will probably be it's primary food and any of those barrels will be fine for that.
The best advice I can give you is that instead of buying a bunch of tacticool crap for the rifle and hanging junk off the rails you spend that money on ammo and shoot it more. Trigger time will make you a better shot more than any gizmo or fancy stock will.
Wolverine do offer 1/7 1/8 1/9 twist in the XCR-L , but you have to wait longer for the first two and I'm in no hurry, so maybe I'll change my order to 1/8.
Any of the available twist rates will serve you well in an XCR.
If you are a reloader I would look at the new 300 Blackout they are supposed to be offering. I have 3 rifles in that caliber and I love it. It is not a good caliber for someone who just wants to buy factory ammo though as it is mostly premium bullets and runs about $1/shot.
Brass is really easy to make from 223 brass and the bullets are just 30 cal and available everywhere. 18-20 grains of H110 powder behind a 110gr V-max is awesome.
I do plan on reloading in the future, just don't see it happening this year. I just finished a 1022 that cost me $1200 +,and I've just ordered a XCR-L 223. I still need optics for both. So the budget is blown for this year (maybe)
. I do want a barrel conversion , was hoping a 300 blackout or6.8 could take a moose? Would the 300 or the 6.8 have 1500 fps or more at the muzzle?
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for moose or other large game you would be better off with a 50 beowulf, 458 socom or 450 bushmaster caliber conversion.I do plan on reloading in the future, just don't see it happening this year. I just finished a 1022 that cost me $1200 +,and I've just ordered a XCR-L 223. I still need optics for both. So the budget is blown for this year (maybe)
I am just waiting on a non restricted FRT for my 450 ACR which I had built for this exact purpose.
I'm not sure what the barrel length is on a new SU16. Can you have a gunsmith cut the barrel back so that the crack is removed (keeping the barrel length over 18.5")- if Kel-Tec and Vault won't do anything that is??
I do plan on reloading in the future, just don't see it happening this year. I just finished a 1022 that cost me $1200 +,and I've just ordered a XCR-L 223. I still need optics for both. So the budget is blown for this year (maybe)
I wouldn't shoot anything bigger than a deer at 150 yards with the 300BLK and 200-250 with the 6.8.
I wouldn't even consider an Elk or Moose with either unless you were under 50 yards and could ensure perfect shot placement.
If you want to hunt Elk or Moose then buy the XCR-M
Why the heck would you build a $1200 10/22?
This is mine and I have about $600-$700 into it including glass.
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Looks nice but I would never spend that much on a 22. You can buy a real rifle for that price.
