I used a quick release mount for an 870 into the rear sling hole on mine. No modification required. Works great, and hangs freely.
I'm trying to detail strip my Tavor to give it a thorough cleaning, and I've got it down to the point where I'm trying to get the metal insert out. I'm trying to remove the extraction port screws. The armorer's manual says these are 2mm internal hex head screws, and my calipers say they're just a tad wider than that, so that every 2mm hex key (incl. a brand new one) I have fails to mate tightly with the socket and turns freely. The armorer's manual also says to drill out the screws as they're secured with loctite, but that's not even the problem here, its like the screws were stripped at the factory or something. Anyone else have the same problem?
Yup. Easiest bet is not to take those parts out! If you drill them you will need to buy some replacements to put your rifle back together. Any real reason you want to free the receiver insert from the polymer body?
. Main reason I wanted to remove the metal insert is that there's some carbon accumulated at the forward part of the insert, where the vents on the polymer furniture are, and it looks like there's some trapped under the insert, between the insert and the furniture. It seemed like a good idea to remove any gunk from the trigger transfer bar. I also kind of have OCD and wanted to disassemble the trigger to look at it and compare it to those replacement ones people sell I think mines coming along nicely... Would like to get the MI flashlight setup and get a light inside the hand guard, then I think she'll be done... Might put a Specter DR 1-4x on there instead of the Aimpoint PRO as well... We'll see..
I think I might eventually try drilling these guys out and replace em with Torx screw that I can get out w/o destroying the fastener everytime. Now if only someone would conveniently stock appropriately finished and dimensioned torx screws on their website selling TAR21 accessories..![]()




























