- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Got my RPAL back on Day One...
Mind you, we called it something else back then.
I don't ever recall having to memorize such mnemonics.
Back then we relied on common sense...such as not assuming things...
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The Beretta CX4 Thread
- Thread starter AgentFoxMulder
- Start date
Got my RPAL back on Day One...
Mind you, we called it something else back then.
I don't ever recall having to memorize such mnemonics.
Back then we relied on common sense...such as not assuming things...
hey guys, did your cx4 storm come with the bottom rail that allows for foregrip attachment? I'm going through my "guns part" bin and I can only find the side rail attachments, not the bottom rail attachment. can't remember if it came with one or not.
edit: NVM, found it!
edit: NVM, found it!
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I've shot over 4600 rounds through mine and the only issue I ever had was two cases that only partially ejected and got stuck between the edge of the ejection window and the returning breech, likely because they were under-loaded with powder at the factory.
This includes about 12 different "brands/models" of commercial ammo from Remington, Winchester, CCI, Federal, Geco and IMI; reloads with powder charges going from minimum to maximum for bullets of 90gr to 147gr; FMJ round nose, copper plated truncated cone flat nose and jacketed hollow points. I use Beretta 92 magazines.
This thing is extremely reliable and will feed, shoot and extract just about anything in 9mm (not planning to try a full wadcutter, though).
The chamber actually seems just a little oversized, going by the fact that all the brass I've used comes out rather dirty (sooty on the outside). That's likely because the Cx4's a straight blowback design, so the designers made sure extraction was going to be easy.
- Location
- chilliwack BC.
what he said. I haven't even shot a quarter of what he has but its been dead nuts reliable, much like my Girsan 92f clone.
I'd like to try loading some 90grn stuff for it, but can't find bullets to try.
I'd like to try loading some 90grn stuff for it, but can't find bullets to try.
Sierra makes them.
With 6.2gr of CFE Pistol powder I used, the results were really disappointing: 3.9 MOA on a 9/10 rounds group (discarding the outlier shot). 4.8 MOA with all 10 shots counted.
It was even worse with 6.0gr (6.0 MOA) and 6.4gr (7.6 MOA). Perhaps it would have done better with faster burning powder, I don't know. COAL was also almost as short as could be because the bullet is so small: 1.011", so perhaps there was some jumping before the bullet got into the lands?
- Location
- chilliwack BC.
the Mec Gar mags are excellent. I have several as they came with my pistol and they are nicer than the two real Beretta mags that came with the carbine
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Finally installed my SP goodies yesterday.
Steel guide rod, etc and hammer/trigger set.
Seems to work fine with snap caps but will know for sure once I get it out with live ammo.
Couldn't even install the sear clip to try.
It was way too large.
I suspect I have one of the newer sear blocks Brian refers to on Feb 16th in his blog on the SP site.
It has a metal insert but not the little left-over square of plastic on top.
He writes that they are developing a new sear clip for the new blocks.
Can send photos of mine to anyone interested.
I sent a note about it to AA and they are forwarding it to SP for follow-up.
Installation went a bit slowly the first time around.
You really need the little piece of scrap rod to hold things together when you install the hammer.
And, I used a fine technician's-type needle nose pliers to hold the trigger spring back when I replaced the bolt stop bar (39).
Remember, the bar has got to be rocked back slightly so you can re-insert the bolt release lever afterwards.
The only advice I can offer is to really examine closely and understand how everything works together before you start knocking out retaining pins.
A couple of detailed photos doesn't hurt either.
What I can't seem to get a definitive answer about is what dictates if you need a sear clip.
It makes sense to me that it should always be used to allow a metal-on-metal bearing surface between the hammer and sear.
Oh, I also took the opportunity to shim the front of the trigger tub - a piece of card stock quickly put an end to a bit of front to back play.
Steel guide rod, etc and hammer/trigger set.
Seems to work fine with snap caps but will know for sure once I get it out with live ammo.
Couldn't even install the sear clip to try.
It was way too large.
I suspect I have one of the newer sear blocks Brian refers to on Feb 16th in his blog on the SP site.
It has a metal insert but not the little left-over square of plastic on top.
He writes that they are developing a new sear clip for the new blocks.
Can send photos of mine to anyone interested.
I sent a note about it to AA and they are forwarding it to SP for follow-up.
Installation went a bit slowly the first time around.
You really need the little piece of scrap rod to hold things together when you install the hammer.
And, I used a fine technician's-type needle nose pliers to hold the trigger spring back when I replaced the bolt stop bar (39).
Remember, the bar has got to be rocked back slightly so you can re-insert the bolt release lever afterwards.
The only advice I can offer is to really examine closely and understand how everything works together before you start knocking out retaining pins.
A couple of detailed photos doesn't hurt either.
What I can't seem to get a definitive answer about is what dictates if you need a sear clip.
It makes sense to me that it should always be used to allow a metal-on-metal bearing surface between the hammer and sear.
Oh, I also took the opportunity to shim the front of the trigger tub - a piece of card stock quickly put an end to a bit of front to back play.
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- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Canadian Supplier is #########.h Armory
Take out the periods - the system won't let me use their full name.
The prices are on their website but in US $
Great service, BTW.
Take out the periods - the system won't let me use their full name.
The prices are on their website but in US $
Great service, BTW.
Mec Gar/Girsan mags.
Buddy has a CX4 in 9mm and he has, at last count, 6 Mec Gar mags. Says they work very well and are half the price of Beretta factory mags. He actually prefers them to the Beretta mags.
I think Promag also makes 92fs mags.
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Mine works flawlessly with Promag magazines.
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
A.tech reports that new sear clips are on their way and they will send me one when they arrive.
Apparently SP now installs the clip on all trigger/hammer jobs they do.
It was suggested that In the mean time I could play around with my over-sized clip and bend it to fit although as long as the trigger reset properly with live ammo I was good-to-go without the clip until the proper size arrived.
Again, great customer service from AA...they answered my emails right away.
mastermind
CGN Regular
- Location
- SW Ontario
D.P, thanks for your feedback on the SP parts! I'd be interested to read your range report when you get a chance.
I had mine out at the quarry this weekend. I was shooting cans dangling on small branches at 120 yards with a Vortex Sparc II co-witnessed with the irons. I think I am used to the factory trigger, but both of my friends commented how horrible the trigger was.. they stopped complaining when they hit the same targets with ease!
I had mine out at the quarry this weekend. I was shooting cans dangling on small branches at 120 yards with a Vortex Sparc II co-witnessed with the irons. I think I am used to the factory trigger, but both of my friends commented how horrible the trigger was.. they stopped complaining when they hit the same targets with ease!
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
Lots of snow and ice still on the ground here in Ottawa...may be a couple of weeks yet...also waiting for the EOTech 512 I ordered to arrive...was able to find a one-off NOS "Beretta CX4" bipod for it at a deep discount price
- Location
- Ottawa, ON
I bent the sear clip to fit.
It was relatively easy using a pair of fine electronics technician-type needle nose pliers.
In fact, there were some faint score marks exactly where it had to be bent - not sure if this is a manufacturing fluke or they were planning ahead.
I also did the "card-stock mod" by putting a piece of business card between the front of the trigger tub and the lower.
It certainly stopped the back-forth slop.
Not sure it makes any difference but I feel better
Just a heads-up, after I installed the sear clip the trigger screw needed to be significantly adjusted.
Leaving it as-is after installing the sear clip changed the geometry to the point that the trigger "prongs" extended up into the safety catch tunnel and got in the way of the safety's movement!
To readjust, I first turned the trigger adjusting screw until top of the Firing Pin Catch Lever (44) was just flush with its rear opening, (per SP instructions).
Then, I turned in the trigger adjusting screw until the hammer would not hold.
I then backed it up about a quarter turn, put everything back together, and checked trigger reset with snap caps.
I measured trigger pull at just a tad over 6#.
(It had been just under 9# before any SP mods)
Managed to get out Wednesday (Mar 22nd) despite the bitter cold, !@#$%$.
Cracked-off two mags without incident - last half of each mag as fast as I could!
Trigger resetting properly and all rounds fed/ejected OK!
Trigger very pleasant - not sure I could ask for more.
Not precision rifle-like but far better than my service Glock.
Will measure trigger pull again now that I've fired it.
I had wrenched-on my new EoTech 512 and it was hitting a 3" dia stump approx. 30m away without any sighting in.
Maybe I'll return that fancy Wheeler green laser bore-sighter that I ordered - LOL!
Will sight-in properly once things warm up a bit.
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