The Cooey Make-Over Thread

I think I just built most accurate Cooey single shot rifle I have ever seen.
Started as a barreled receiver model 750 Nice condition with clean finish.
I added the rear sight earlier as well as stock which still needs refinishing. Today I put on front sight and proceeded to fit the non matching bolt I purchased month ago. First I honed out the receiver. For smooth movement. Then thinned out the front portion of the bolt so it would close into the barrel.
To achieve tight lock up I filed the receiver which was not allowing the bolt to turn down.
So thinking I should test fire this gun I took a 9mm shell at 10 meters squatting down. Used CCI .22 cb shorts. Sure enough second shot I hit it. So I took another one in disbelief. First shot direct hit.! So I tested it on the target. Benched Rather quickly aimed shots with bad lighting. It's surprising result as I never believed Cooeys to be a target rifle but this is nice!. If I had better light conditions, target and took my time it would have been insanely better and i dont consider myself that great of a shot. Also trigger could use some tuning and I will buff the bolt to a shine to finish it off. What do you think?
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Anyone know what model this is? I've heard its a Cooey, Winchester, even a Remington. Want to fix it up for sentimental reasons, missing the bolt. Any help is appreciated.
 
Anyone know what model this is? I've heard its a Cooey, Winchester, even a Remington. Want to fix it up for sentimental reasons, missing the bolt. Any help is appreciated.

Can't open your pics. However, it will be marked Cooey or Winchester/Cooey on it if it is one of them unless someone buffed off all the markings.
 
I have a Cooey 750 that I bought off the EE for $125 shipped, it was pretty nice from the onset, but I wanted to spruce it up. Took the bolt and polished the bolt knob, and bolt. Then I floated the barrel, you can slid paper all the way to the receiver now. Next I stripped and sanded the stock, stained it with American Walnut stain and clear coated it with four coats of Watco clearcoat. Here are the pics:

Before:
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After:

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Turned out no bad for my first refinish job.
 
I think it turned out great!!

On second note. Had a run in with my 64.
If any of you do the conversion with savage mag DO NOT file the top of the mag. It will be junk. Someone sold me a rifle with this done. Now it wont chamber properly. What you file is the catch on the mag until it holds. It's what I did with a new one I bought.
 
Ok, here's one I've been working on that I think I'm ready to call done.

Foremost I need to give a big thanks to Dean at Select Shooting Supplies - he did all the metal coating work, and it is phenomenal job. If any edges look lumpy, etc, in the detail, that is the Cooey metal work, not the coating. I can't recommend his shop enough.

Anyway, I started with a Ranger Repeater. Its one I've had for a good while, shoots and operates perfectly. It wasn't desperate for a makeover, and looked like this:

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Fairly standard.

I chose a rather polarizing colour combo, for no particular reason. But I did want it to stand out. I'm not a great photographer, and these pictures are not a completely accurate portrayal of the copper colour - in real life it is richer, like a new penny - but it is not a gloss finish, it has a nice satin to it. The OD green is matte.

The stock I did myself - I've redone stocks many time, but this is the first one where I changed the colour. The stock too me weeks to do - after carefully refinishing down to 1000, I lightened the wood considerably, which was a multi-step process I did 4 times. once that was done, the colouring was a painful process, and I'm not 100% satisfied with it, but it wasn't going to get any better. Some areas you can see it is a little blotchy, and it also collected in gaps. Near the cheek weld there is what looks like a knot that was drilled out and filled with dowel of a similar wood. The job was done nicely, but the tiny gaps collected stain. I was going for a "hi-lo" colour job, and that part turned out not bad. Finally, it is finished with Lin-Speed (the best wood oil I've ever used) using their prescribed 'dual finish' application, which I did 3 times - that was more than a week in itself. I finished it with 0000 steel wool to give it a satinization to match the metal work, and the finish turned out great. Luckily, it was a fairly nice piece of wood, and a lot of character was under the old dark colouring.

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The crown turned out great, and I had Dean put a tiny dot of fluo orange on the front sight, which makes it very visible.

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Dean coated the screws as well, but I chose to go with some brass ones to match up with the internal tube magazine (which I hand polished to a mirror finish). Also, the screws are Robertson, which I think nicely Canadianizes the gun a little further. I indexed them to diamonds instead of square.

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This model did not have swivels, nor was it drilled for that. But, I sourced some correct ones and had them coated. I made a leather sling for it, and created a custom dye - I wanted a slightly different green than this, but it will settle in a bit more and look better as some time goes by.

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The work wasn't just superficial the entire action has been gun kote'd, and just put another 200 years of life back into this gun. The action 'feels' a little different now, but it is rock solid and performs perfectly. Shoots like a dream.

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Anyway, sorry for all the pictures if it's too much, but I wanted to show it off as best I could. Reading through this thread I'm sure there are those that will consider this work an abomination or whatever, but this was just me making sure this gun is a shooter for many years. I've got lots of Cooeys, more than enough to have a little fun with a few of them.
 
I like it. I'm not crazy about the green, but it's definitely something different and unique, and I think the brass screws should be flat black, but man, that barrel/bolt colour is really really nice. Sp even though this came off as a backhanded compliment, it isn't. I like the job overall. Is that parkerized I'm assuming?

The orange dot on the front sight is something I have done as well, just not as finished looking as yours, nice touch (and yeah it helps a lot with these sights!).

Nicely done :)
 
No, it is baked-on Gun Kote. SSS had to completely strip all metal surfaces of blue/oil/finish/gunk/whatever, and then it is sprayed on and baked. Very durable, and scratch resistant. I didn't go about trying to open up any paint cans with it, but it is plain to see (and feel) than you would have to do something REALLY stupid in order to scratch or chip it - it's part of the metal now.

I assume you mean you're not crazy about the stock being green? when I went back and picked up the gun after all the metal work had been completed, Dean had re-assembled the gun completely, and it looked pretty bad in the original stock colour. I knew I was going to change the colour of the wood, but as soon as I saw the metal work done, I settled on green, and am happy with the result. The pictures don't do it tons of justice - it does not look like pressure treated green in real life, and it compliments the metal perfectly. The Lin-Speed finish shows it off perfectly, and the finish is not built up at all.
 
This winter my project will be this Cooey Repeater. I've read here that the slim stock indicates its pre-1937.

After a thorough muzzle to butt plate cleaning, including de-gunking bolt with brake cleaner, the gun shoots flawlessly. I was pleasantly surprised by its accuracy!

The stock is in terrific shape, with no deep scratches or dents, but the finish is wrinkled. I've done tung oil finishes on other guns and that's what I plan for this one, but I'm open to suggestions.

Its the steel I'm wondering about and I have no experience in re-bluing. The receiver and breech are have the usual handling wear and patina. The rest of the barrel actually still has decent bluing. Should I risk stripping the patina and attempt a cold blue? Or should I leave it alone?





 
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I would not do cold blue. I have done a few guns with cold blue and you can get great loking results if you take your time . However, it is not that durable. If I was going to reblue, I would be doing the old slow rust blue method which can be done at home. Of course you could always pay to have it hot tanked but then you are exceeding the value of the gun. Some say that the old slow rust bluing method is more durable than hot tanking. I would leave it alone before I cold blued it but that's just my opinion.
 
Sage advice, Gunsaholic, thanks. I've spoken with a good friend who's done a fair share of cold blueing and he says its not for something one intends to take afield. I was briefly toying with the idea of gun coat but have decided against it because the final product will look like, well, gun coat. Doesn't seem fitting on an old fashioned rifle.
 
That's a nice 5 lb piece of Canadian history you have there.

This winter my project will be this Cooey Repeater. I've read here that the slim stock indicates its pre-1937.

After a thorough muzzle to butt plate cleaning, including de-gunking bolt with brake cleaner, the gun shoots flawlessly. I was pleasantly surprised by its accuracy!

The stock is in terrific shape, with no deep scratches or dents, but the finish is wrinkled. I've done tung oil finishes on other guns and that's what I plan for this one, but I'm open to suggestions.

Its the steel I'm wondering about and I have no experience in re-bluing. The receiver and breech are have the usual handling wear and patina. The rest of the barrel actually still has decent bluing. Should I risk stripping the patina and attempt a cold blue? Or should I leave it alone?





 
This winter my project will be this Cooey Repeater. I've read here that the slim stock indicates its pre-1937.

After a thorough muzzle to butt plate cleaning, including de-gunking bolt with brake cleaner, the gun shoots flawlessly. I was pleasantly surprised by its accuracy!

The stock is in terrific shape, with no deep scratches or dents, but the finish is wrinkled. I've done tung oil finishes on other guns and that's what I plan for this one, but I'm open to suggestions.

Its the steel I'm wondering about and I have no experience in re-bluing. The receiver and breech are have the usual handling wear and patina. The rest of the barrel actually still has decent bluing. Should I risk stripping the patina and attempt a cold blue? Or should I leave it alone?

I'd leave it alone. Patina is nice on an antique.
 
I picked up this Cooey 75 in the summer for target practice and small game. It was in pretty good shape, but I thought I'd try my hand at restoring and upgrading it.

-Sanded, stained and waxed the stock. It's a nice satin finish.
-Cut the barrel to 18.5" (left 1/2" so I could get it professionally cut and crowned in the future).
-Added a rail and 3-9x40 scope.
-Painted black. Will redo the paint with something more durable when the weather warms up.
-Bedded the receiver and free floated the barrel.
-Polished the bolt and receiver.
-Lightened the trigger.

Shooting prone in the snow it's doing 1.5" 5 round groups at 50 yards with the high velocity hollow point I use for hunting. Haven't had a chance to try other ammo or bench rest to tighten this up.

I'm happy with how it's turned out. I found it a bit challenging for grouse with the irons in the fall, but the scope should help. So far one snowshoe hare down since the upgrade :)

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