The Cooey Make-Over Thread

^thanks
zoop-seal is great!!! it hasn't been that long since i finished it, but there is no rust or even fading to the metal finish.

google zoop seal and read up on it. its not like a lacquer or a paint. it actually soaks into the metal. its made for open engine bays on hot rods and shined up bike motors.... so it can also take mad heat!
 
Thanks for the great thread GCN, this is just the resource I needed. I’m a new shooter looking for some advice on restoring a 40 year old rifle that has been left unattended to in a barn for the past 20 years.

It's a Cooey Model 39, when I received it the rust on the outside of the barrel was so thick that the blueing could no longer be seen. The stock looked good, just the normal scratches, dings and worn finish as one would expect. The bore looked very good to me, most likely because of the wax on the .22lr rounds as I am sure the original owner never cleaned it. Crown seems to be in good shape as well. Bolt was brown with rust where it was exposed to the air, but still cycled, fired and ejected well. Chamber doesn't look deformed from dry firing and rounds feed well. 10% of the time when shooting there is a good burst of soot making its way past the bolt where the ejector is, right into my face. Examining the spent brass I can see where the soot is escaping and making the surface black on the side opposite to where the firing pin strikes. I'll see if it still does this after a really good cleaning. Is it possible the chamber is oversized, or maybe it’s just the cheap ammo I am using (Rem. Thunderbolts)?

What I’ve done so far;

-Removed the rust and most of the blueing (oops) from the barrel with WD40 and light steel wool.
-Same for the bolt but with 10W40 and a steel brush.
-10W40 and the steel wool for the butt plate, trigger guard and screws.
-Polished the stock a bit with some Pledge.

What I’d like to do;

Refinish the stock by stripping with rubbing alcohol, then sanding the dings out and staining with some sort of oil. I’m not sure what the next step should be after that though to seal and protect the finish. Help?

Cold blue the barrel, there is an issue though; I can’t get the screw out that holds the rear sight on the barrel. Can I get around that somehow?

I’d like to polish the sear and add baffles to prevent the trigger from wobbling side to side, but I don’t understand how to remove the trigger pin. It’s under spring pressure from the sear spring, do I just tap it out and grab the spring before it shoots away? And how do I get the spring back in when I put the trigger back on the receiver?

And finally, what should be used to mount studs to the stock for a sling? Do they just screw into pre-taped holes, or do I need an epoxy?

If the answers to these questions are elsewhere already I'm sorry!
 
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Turbo-Minivan .....fantastic job.. I would like to add a brake to mine also, if for no other reason that they are cool. Did you thread it 1/2" 28 TPI ? and if so who did it for you ?
I would like to have mine done also
]
Cheers, Dave from Edmonton
 
I have been working on a model 75 and although its not done I thought I would share some pics. A scope rail has been added and a rubber butt pad, I have ordered an adjustable cheek piece and I am going to paint the stock. I grabbed my snow shoes and headed out to the range today to shoot and it did pretty well at 100 yards with snow falling and wind 10-15 k from my 8 oclock. I think with a little more work on the trigger this could easily be a sub MOA rifle at a 100 yards. Any tips for the trigger work?

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I didn't do the work but someone "made-over" this one. My dad bought it for me in the early eighties. It is a Cooey Model 82. Its barrel is 18", overall length is 34". It has no sights, has an old Bushnell banner 4x scope and looks like a target crown was done at the muzzle. Whatever its story is... it is a super accurate, very lightweight little rifle.

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I'll play.

First up is my father's model 60. It was on the rack above the basement stairs until I got at it. The stock was gouged and ugly and the metal was rusted with lots of bluing wear. The metal was stripped and treated to a coat of flat black Gun-Kote. The original stock was replaced with a new to me used stock. Before being mated to the rifle that stock was stripped, lightly sanded and finished with stain and boiled linseed oil.
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I know this is the rimfire section but this is a Cooey. A model 840 that lived on the same rack as the above, and was in similar condition. Stock was stripped and Tru-Oil was applied to the natural wood. The metal was professionally hot blued.
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I also finished another Model 60 that was originally my great grandfather's on my mother's side. Just put it all together today and haven't got decent pictures yet. I will update when I do. It's very similar to the one above, but the stock is darker and I used Gloss Black Gun-Kote on it.
 
Was wondering if anyone could give me some info on taking the bolt out of an old cooey?

I am slowly working to fixing this little bad boy up and would like to take the bolt out so I can polish her up.

Currently all I have done to it is , remove rust from the barrel, trigger guard and butt plate, polish the bolt parts that I can access with out removing and Polished up the brass mag tube.

This is a project that is slow in the works as I might also do the stock.

I will try and get some pictures up so show the progress and what I have done so far but I have a crappy camera lol.

Thanks in advance.

Pete
 
bolt removal

Hey,, If its a model 60, back off the knurled thumb nut and lift the assembly off the stock. back off the stud that the thumb nut is threaded onto (not necessary to completely remove it) so that the mechanism that sits in the slot at the bottom of the bolt drops down enough to disengage from the bolt. Depress the trigger and while keeping it depressed, pull the bolt rearward.
It should pull right out.
Good Luck.
Dave
 
OK thanks I will give that a try.

Not 100% its a model 60 as the only markings on it are SureShot .22 cal

I think think this model was made for Eaton's back in the day but I would have to assume its a 60 judging on the look

Hey,, If its a model 60, back off the knurled thumb nut and lift the assembly off the stock. back off the stud that the thumb nut is threaded onto (not necessary to completely remove it) so that the mechanism that sits in the slot at the bottom of the bolt drops down enough to disengage from the bolt. Depress the trigger and while keeping it depressed, pull the bolt rearward.
It should pull right out.
Good Luck.
Dave
 
Turbo-Minivan .....fantastic job.. I would like to add a brake to mine also, if for no other reason that they are cool. Did you thread it 1/2" 28 TPI ? and if so who did it for you ?
I would like to have mine done also
]
Cheers, Dave from Edmonton

thanks!
i did all the work myself. i didnt have a 1/2"x28, so i threaded it with the finest i had and made the brake to match.
having a machine lathe makes things easier
 
OK so I have done a bit of work but thing 100% finished yet

Polished brass loading tube
Polished bolt (needs a bit more work)
Removed rust from barrel, trigger guard and but stuck (still have some on butt stock and trigger guard)

unsure if I should due the wood stock as its not to beat up but might be a long term project.

Question I have though...should I lube up the bolt and if so what should I use? also if I decide to re-due the stock whats the best way to do it?

Sorry for the crappy pics my camera is a POS..




 
1FSHNDAD......Man...That's sharp!!...I presume that's the the same piece of wood that was on it when you had it at the range?.... Is that finish you put on the stock the same stuff for garage floors...color looks similar...textured alike too...whatever it is I think it's awesome!!...Congrats!:D
 
Same here, I would love to know what you used on the stock. It looks like the garage floor stuff, but I don't know......let us in on your secret??
 
So I got my 64B all back together with the mods and some cleaning of rust this weekend.
the cocking handle before
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The Cocking handle after
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The new machend part beside the old one. I blued it myself as well.
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The scope mounted
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The purpose of the extended cocking handle. With the scope I could not get to the cocking handle.
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