The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
308TRshooter
Member
- Location
- Guelph, ON
Hi guys,
Yesterday I installed my SA 1-55 barrel on my Beretta receiver and ended up over indexing it by a couple of degrees. When I first indexed the barrel I used some 4' long pieces of 3/8" rod to align rear sight ears with the flats on the gas cylinder. Will I run into problems if I take the barrel off and re-index it or will it work as is? It does pass the tilt test.
Thank you for your input.
Yesterday I installed my SA 1-55 barrel on my Beretta receiver and ended up over indexing it by a couple of degrees. When I first indexed the barrel I used some 4' long pieces of 3/8" rod to align rear sight ears with the flats on the gas cylinder. Will I run into problems if I take the barrel off and re-index it or will it work as is? It does pass the tilt test.
Thank you for your input.
If the barrel is over-indexed a bit you can just turn the receiver back a bit with the wrench until it is zeroed. How far off vertical index was the barrel when it was hand tight on the receiver? An over or under indexed barrel can cause the op rod to bind in the gas cylinder and will also require that you shift the front sight to one side to compensate for this when you zero the rifle at the range. You may also need to use more windage in the rear sight than usual to get a proper zero.
308TRshooter
Member
- Location
- Guelph, ON
I didn't get an exact measurement of how far off vertical index it was when hand tight. I think it was around 20 degrees or so.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
20 degrees off index is plenty tight for a new barrel install. There should be no difficulty in backing the receiver off a bit and maintaining good barrel/receiver tension.
A dial type angle finder is useful to establish parallelism between the flat of the receiver and the top of the front sight base. I use the Badger Ordnance alignment fixtures with a piece of aluminum angle as my primary way of establishing zero index by visual comparison of the 2 angles. I always double check with the angle finder as I tighten the receiver and when I'm at zero by visual comparison. I find that the angle finder always confirms what has been done by visual comparison.
A dial type angle finder is useful to establish parallelism between the flat of the receiver and the top of the front sight base. I use the Badger Ordnance alignment fixtures with a piece of aluminum angle as my primary way of establishing zero index by visual comparison of the 2 angles. I always double check with the angle finder as I tighten the receiver and when I'm at zero by visual comparison. I find that the angle finder always confirms what has been done by visual comparison.
Don't cheap out on the angle finder. (Hint : The 4-5$ ebay ones sucks real bad)
Too bad I've forgotten a follower arm in my Numrich order or my second build would be finished.
That looks great! Once you get the hang of it, Parkerizing is a breeze. I find that bubbling soup amazing to watch.Don't cheap out on the angle finder. (Hint : The 4-5$ ebay ones sucks real bad)
Too bad I've forgotten a follower arm in my Numrich order or my second build would be finished.
Should be able to refinish some old beater shotguns/rifles with that magic soup later on.
Parkerizing is easy. The sandblasting part is a pain.
Should be able to refinish some old beater shotguns/rifles with that magic soup later on.
Parkerizing is easy. The sandblasting part is a pain.
I am hoping to get my neighbours surplus compressor. It is big and ugly and old but runs quiet and pumps air forever. I have done 11 receivers and 4 trigger groups to date. As the solution gets used it gets solids building up on the bottom of the pot so I hang all the parts with mechanics wire (wipe the oil off first). I am using Brownells Manganese Phosphate solution and just have to add water to replace what evaporates. Picked up another gallon last week so I can mix up enough to do some barrels and oprods next.
That sedimentation is called flocculent sludge. After the solution cools you can filter it thru a paint filter to remove it. A clean plastic windshield de-icer fluid container makes a good storage container for the solution between uses.
308TRshooter
Member
- Location
- Guelph, ON
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to increase the amount of draw on M1 barrels? With my receiver hand tight there is only 6.5 degrees of rotation left before the receiver is indexed.
Thanks.
Thanks.
A roll swage is the standard way of doing this. Just out of curiosity what make of receiver are you using and is the barrel a used one? I've worked with about 35 of the ex-Danish Breda and Beretta receivers to this point and always found them to be in great shape. Normally a NOS GI barrel or a new Criterion barrel will time up hand tight anywhere from 20 to 30 degrees off index on them. Used barrels are a different case as the barrel shoulders have previously been "crushed" when installing them. Some receivers have a worn face which won't allow a barrel to time up tight enough. During the post-WW2 rebuild process the US Army salvaged these by chrome plating the face of the receiver to restore the exterior dimension. I once owned a WRA receiver that had been chrome plated on the face.
308TRshooter
Member
- Location
- Guelph, ON
My receiver is an ex-Danish Beretta. I'm pretty sure the barrel is used because the cleaning patches were coming out green.
I found the source of all my problems. It was improper lubrication. I didn't have any grease on the main spring. That eliminated all the tingey sound/ feel when cycling the action. Also some grease on the op rod catch solved my problems with it not stripping the first round. Everything is so smooth now!
Here's a good guide http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease
Here's a good guide http://www.garandgear.com/m1-garand-grease
Last edited:
308TRshooter
Member
- Location
- Guelph, ON
That's some good information. I will have see if my op rod from Numrich is the same.
The Op Rod spring should stick past the bullet guide like 1-1.5in if it goes all the way in the Op Rod
Maybe I am not lucky, but I've got bad rods 50% of the time.
One was bent upward a LOT
Second had a worn tab + was actually missing half of it (the one that slide in the receiver)
Third one had a spring stuck in it. (was able to fix)
The three other were perfect (except cosmetic obviously)
Numrich is sometime a bit of a lotery, but service is great. I've always got nice parts after returning defective products.
How do you put a price on this much Garandelicious fun? Received it in the mail today for a looksee and general observation. Deans Gun Restoration custom fitted stock, 30.06 chrome lined Krieger barrel. As new op rod courtesy of Numrich and Columbus Machine in Ohio. Reparked/rebuilt trigger assembly. Lots of "new" parts that just ooze perfection. And to top it off there is another one waiting at the post office for pickup tomorrow. 
