The M1 Garand Build Thread
- Thread starter Don Kael
- Start date
Finally got around to taking new pictures of the replacement CMP stock that arrived last week. My iPhone doesn't even close to being able to replicate how this stock looks in my hands; it changes from red, to orange, to brown and anywhere in-between depending on how I am holding it!
A big thank you goes out to Sunanjhan for taking the time and effort to bring this stock to life. If anyone is interested in picking one up, PM me and I'll put you in contact with him; he's amazing to work with! He is also now a member here on CGN.
More photos here: http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/SparkOfLight/library/CMP%20Garand%20Stock%20-%20Professional%20Finish?sort=3&page=1
Apologies for the cat hair on the blanket and the crappy iPhone pictures!
A big thank you goes out to Sunanjhan for taking the time and effort to bring this stock to life. If anyone is interested in picking one up, PM me and I'll put you in contact with him; he's amazing to work with! He is also now a member here on CGN.
More photos here: http://s1333.photobucket.com/user/SparkOfLight/library/CMP%20Garand%20Stock%20-%20Professional%20Finish?sort=3&page=1
Apologies for the cat hair on the blanket and the crappy iPhone pictures!
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Just got a NOS SA marked barrel to mount onto a Breda receiver. I've watched some videos on how to mount these and it doesn't seem that tricky. However, I'm curious if others have run into the same issue as myself.
Fully hand tight, the barrel is about 30 degrees from being timed correctly. But when I tighten it to this stage, it becomes painfully obvious that things are too tight and the bolt simply will not close. Is this standard? What needs to be done?
Pic shows barrel fully tight and how much the bolt will close.
Everything I've read on the internet seems to indicate that the bolt should close and reaming is only required in order to get headspace correct - but all of those folks bolts seem to close without issue.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Fully hand tight, the barrel is about 30 degrees from being timed correctly. But when I tighten it to this stage, it becomes painfully obvious that things are too tight and the bolt simply will not close. Is this standard? What needs to be done?
Pic shows barrel fully tight and how much the bolt will close.
Everything I've read on the internet seems to indicate that the bolt should close and reaming is only required in order to get headspace correct - but all of those folks bolts seem to close without issue.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
I ground down the shoulder on my barrel from 30 degrees off till it was about 14 when hand tight with lapping compound. The bolt won't close because the barrel is not timed correctly is my guess, you can see in the pictures the ears on the barrel are not flat.
SparkOfLight, the rifle looks good! I have to get out and shoot mine again, hopefully this weekend. Finally got a proper op rod spring from Brownells.
SparkOfLight, the rifle looks good! I have to get out and shoot mine again, hopefully this weekend. Finally got a proper op rod spring from Brownells.
Just got a NOS SA marked barrel to mount onto a Breda receiver. I've watched some videos on how to mount these and it doesn't seem that tricky. However, I'm curious if others have run into the same issue as myself.
Fully hand tight, the barrel is about 30 degrees from being timed correctly. But when I tighten it to this stage, it becomes painfully obvious that things are too tight and the bolt simply will not close. Is this standard? What needs to be done?
Pic shows barrel fully tight and how much the bolt will close.
Everything I've read on the internet seems to indicate that the bolt should close and reaming is only required in order to get headspace correct - but all of those folks bolts seem to close without issue.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
30 degrees is a bit much.it may index into place but it will be hard to do.
the bolt doesn't close probably because the cutouts for bullet guides are not on the bottom so they hit the bolt and it doesn't close.
also.if it's a new barrel it has to be reamed because new barrels are "short chambered"--therefore they require a couple thous. of metal removal from the chamber--do u have a headspace guage in there in the pic?
I have no headspace gauges or reamers.. The pic was taken with the barrel threaded in hand tight and just the bolt slid forward on the rails. I am without any tools and just slowly collecting parts. So far I have the receiver, full bolt assembly, barrel, gas cylinder and front sight. Nothing else yet.
Best bet to save money is to send receiver,barrel and stripped bolt to someone who can index the barrel and ream toproper headspace.if you do it yourself you need a barrel vice/action wrench[maybe 100-150 bucks],headspace guages[go,nogo,field--at least go,nogo--50-100 bucks] and reamer with rod,handle and cutting fluid[200-250 bucks]
Send it to someone,pay a few bucks and be done with it--if you're only going to do a single build...
Send it to someone,pay a few bucks and be done with it--if you're only going to do a single build...
Bird Blaster
Regular
- Location
- Northern Ontario
Well I am only doing one build. Any recommendations on people who do this work on cgn? Any one in Ontario? Thanks.
i see that you live in barrie, ellwood epps is really close to you. give them a call? i know they have a gunsmith
What about Nick at Vulcan? I know he's often very busy, but he does some damn fine work.
Did_b and I used the lapping compound when we were timing my barrel in the same way he had done his and it worked very well and very quickly. The bolt will close as soon as it is timed but, as already said, it will not chamber a round until it has been finish reamed and checked with a set of go/no-go gauges.
Did_b I know how you feel; I've only been out three times this year and it's KILLING me; I've barely sighted my M1 in! I see the Brownells spring treating you much better than the Wolf spring was. Let us know how the two compare.
Also remember to send the gas cylinder and front sight to help with properly indexing the barrel. +1 on using a gunsmith, I've used Gunco in Ottawa, great job. For my second and last build I'm using Nick at Vulcan, will post pics when I get it back.
The barrel steel is softer than the receiver so most metal removal would have been from the barrel shoulder, but some was no doubt removed from the face of the receiver as well. This is not a recommended method of adjusting the barrel draw prior to tightening it into index. It might work out OK for one barrel/receiver combination, but could cause problems if installing another barrel. In this case a replacement barrel might well be overdrawn prior to final indexing.
If people are planning just one barrel installation it would be wiser and cheaper to use qualified gunsmith rather than investing in the cost of tooling incl a barrel vise, receiver wrench, headspace gauges and a finishing reamer which is required if installing a new barrel.
Just wondering if that stock would work for a 30-06 garand build ?
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1246550.htm
Thanks !
By putting a picture of this one beside an USGI stock it seems like it would work. Just wanted to confirm...
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1246550.htm
Thanks !
By putting a picture of this one beside an USGI stock it seems like it would work. Just wanted to confirm...
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Just wondering if that stock would work for a 30-06 garand build ?
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1246550.htm
Thanks !
By putting a picture of this one beside an USGI stock it seems like it would work. Just wanted to confirm...
No. It is for an Italian Tipo 2 7.62 mm rifle which uses a stock, barrel and op rod which are .5 inch shorter than the corresponding standard .30 06 Garand parts. If one is handy you could cut, glue and pin a .5 inch extension on the front end though.
Thanks for the reply, will order a boyds then :/
EDIT
Working on 2nd build ! Thanks SFRC
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