The T97 Thread!

Here is the T97.ca FTU. The lower is being planned for early 2014.

T97NSR_FTU_Optics_Mount.jpg


Summary:

* Long Sight Plane
* Lower Line of Sight
* Non-reciprocating, Side Charging Handle
* (Optional Side Reciprocating Charging Handle Available)
* Oversized Charging Handle
* Rifle Field Strip Unchanged
* Little To No Weight Gain
* Simple 15 Minute Installation
* Holds Zero (Secure and Reliable Function)
* Type II anodized black
* 6061 aluminum (Aluminum and Steel Clamps)
* All fasteners double locked
* 100% compatibility assured with Lower (work begins in 2014)

Installation Instructions Link

View Installation Pictorial

View Original T97NSR Rifle Manual
 
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rbygrave said:
Just some black duct tape on the Mags. stops them from tilting and no more FTF, fixed it for my su-16 to.

Richard
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Thanks, Richard. Interestingly enough, I came to the same conclusion after I started paying a little more attention. My fix was a small amount of JB Weld (about .030" thickness) on the back of the magazine where it seats into the bottom of the magwell, to cure the 'tip'. It's running fine now, even with coupled mags. It still sucks that we were the Beta testers going through all of this nonsense, but when it cycles reliably, this gun is a helluva lot of fun.
I'm guessing our friends at CanAm/Dominion have been taking LOTS of notes and that their batch won't have any of these quirks.
 
Hoakster said:
Thanks, Richard. Interestingly enough, I came to the same conclusion after I started paying a little more attention. My fix was a small amount of JB Weld (about .030" thickness) on the back of the magazine where it seats into the bottom of the magwell, to cure the 'tip'. It's running fine now, even with coupled mags. It still sucks that we were the Beta testers going through all of this nonsense, but when it cycles reliably, this gun is a helluva lot of fun.
I'm guessing our friends at CanAm/Dominion have been taking LOTS of notes and that their batch won't have any of these quirks.
Click to expand...

Can someone post pics of exactly where and how much you applied the weld/tape?

This is great info that I hopefully won't need. Taking the brand new T97 out tomorrow with some brand new LAR mags from questor. Will bring along some weld and see if I have this problem. Hopefully I won't!!!
 
I just got a T97NSR. I took it out to play on Sunday (temp was about -20 +/-). The first 10 rounds were awesome (used a Gen3 PMAG, and a C-Products steel mag). I loaded the third (mag included with rifle) mag. When I went to charge the rifle, the bolt wouldn't fully close on the chambered round. With no round in it would close. Tried it with all three mags and the same issue occurred with another 15 rounds. Now it is evident that the round is properly chambered, but for some reason that I can't figure, the bolt would not close completely. Recharge the handle and the bullet ejects (into space) and it will chamber another round but not fully close. I received the rifle and detail stripped and cleaned it using Froglube. I couldn't see any thing mechanical wrong with the rifle so I stripped all the Froglube off, and recleaned and lubed the rifle using MPro7. I have not shot it yet since cleaning it again.

Observations so far..

I have tried 5 magazines. A gen 3 PMAG (seats and drops free), C-Products 5/20 (Seats, drops with a little assistance), The factory mag (seats and drops free), and two Beowulf (that shall not be named) that seated and had to be finessed to be removed (but no great effort).

I do not have the barrel gouge.

Gas setting was set to 1 (cycled perfectly for the initial 10 rounds)

Visual Mechanical inspection shows no signs of defects. With no round chambered, everything cycles and works as it should.

Any ideas other than lube? The place where it was purchased from is closed until after the New Year.
 
I encounted the same issue with mine when i had it, but it was only after a round attempted to chamber and brought up on the feed ramps, pushing the bullet itself back into the casing. Each time this happened, I had to break down the T97 to give the chamber a good clean. If I tried without taking it down, I only had success maybe 20% of the time, it would usually just parly close the bolt as you describe. This was the first day I had it out before I filed down the feed ramps to stop the bullet-push issue.
 
NLGT said:
I encounted the same issue with mine when i had it, but it was only after a round attempted to chamber and brought up on the feed ramps, pushing the bullet itself back into the casing. Each time this happened, I had to break down the T97 to give the chamber a good clean. If I tried without taking it down, I only had success maybe 20% of the time, it would usually just parly close the bolt as you describe. This was the first day I had it out before I filed down the feed ramps to stop the bullet-push issue.
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All my bullets were chambering properly. I'm not comfortable filing feed ramps on my rifle just yet. I haven't experienced the projectile being pushed in yet. Until that happens I will keep the file away from the rifle. All my mags seat fine and sit properly. I believe my issue was likely due to overlubing it with Frogube (user error) and not wiping it off properly after. As I memtioned I stripped the Froglube and recleaned and used Mpro7. I had it out yesterday and went through 60 rounds with ZERO issues. It shot like a champ and it was fairly accurate as I was able to hit the gong at 100 yards with no issues. I find the sights to be not bad but target aquisition with them takes time. So this puppy was awesome!

That being said, I am not discounting Froglube. I use it on my other firearms and haven't had any issues. But MPro7 has always been my go to when in doubt.
 
Froglube is not a winter lube. Glad it works now. I just got to try one, and what a cool little gun, with a strange double action sorta trigger.
 
so i got my first "pushed in" round today. was using black box federal .223. I've put about 200 rounds thru the rifle and that was my first failure. other than that it shot perfectly. i figure its attributed to the LAR mag ive been using. It works well 98% of the time though.
 
Vancouvergunnut said:
so i got my first "pushed in" round today. was using black box federal .223. I've put about 200 rounds thru the rifle and that was my first failure. other than that it shot perfectly. i figure its attributed to the LAR mag ive been using. It works well 98% of the time though.
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Here is something VERY important that I've noticed and might need to be put into the original post... I have been working on fixing this problem and test-fitting with snap caps. As I inserted the mag, the bolt hold-open hit the back of the snapcap, stripped it from the mag and pushed it upwards. Had the bolt cycled, it would have jammed it for sure. I fixed that by shortening the bolt hold open tongue so it clears the back of the casing even when inserted all the way to the back of the mag but still gets hit by the follower. I expect that this will end the jams, will retest with a couple of extra mags and the snap caps before a range test, but I'm optimistic.

*** If you have bullets jamming into the case, check if the bolt hold-open clears the back of the casing and shorten if needed but leave enough for the follower to hit it***
 
TRaTSeRiF said:
Here is something VERY important that I've noticed and might need to be put into the original post... I have been working on fixing this problem and test-fitting with snap caps. As I inserted the mag, the bolt hold-open hit the back of the snapcap, stripped it from the mag and pushed it upwards. Had the bolt cycled, it would have jammed it for sure. I fixed that by shortening the bolt hold open tongue so it clears the back of the casing even when inserted all the way to the back of the mag but still gets hit by the follower. I expect that this will end the jams, will retest with a couple of extra mags and the snap caps before a range test, but I'm optimistic.

*** If you have bullets jamming into the case, check if the bolt hold-open clears the back of the casing and shorten if needed but leave enough for the follower to hit it***
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Interesting, I'll have to take a look at that. Would be very pleased if that was the issue, because it seems like a straight forward fix.
 
adriel said:
Interesting, I'll have to take a look at that. Would be very pleased if that was the issue, because it seems like a straight forward fix.
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About the only piece of this rifle I have no issues with Dremeling.. 30s with a stone, shaved off a bit under 1.0mm and now it's perfect. With the rounds at the very back of the mag, pulling the mag towards the back (even though it doesn't have any real front-back play), it just clears the back of the casing but hits the follower. Tested with a couple of other mags, same deal. Will need to do a partial field-strip. Some tips:
1) Clean and degrease like crazy so the shavings/dust won't stick to anything (brake cleaner ftw)
2) Push a patch from the front so it keeps the worst of the debris from entering the chamber
3) Once done, blow out with compressed air, clean out with carb cleaner, then clean both dry and with oil and dry again from the front

You do NOT want metal shavings or abrasive particles in your chamber/barrel/anywhere else on/in your rifle. The more you mask off, the less you clean. That's the worst part of the job. The metal removal is straight-forward.
 
Vancouvergunnut said:
Could we get some pics of what exactly you mean? I'm not too familiar with the innards of this rifle.
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It's a small dark object beyond my ability to photograph without creating a bloody mess, so I'll try with a diagram..
ec95wJ6.png


What was happening with mine was that the bolt hold-open tongue would occasionally hit the back of the casing when inserting the mag and even when it's being cycled to the point of stripping it out of the mag and tilting it up, so when it gets hit by the bolt, the bullet gets jammed into the casing (check the slightest bit of interference with the back of the casing on the "bad" diagram - enough to sometimes bump the cartridge but not enough for a cartridge in the mag to actually make the bolt lock back)

What is supposed to be happening is shown on the "good" diagram:
-The tongue clears the back of the cartridge, so it's hovering just above the mag follower
-As long as there is a round in the mag, the follower will be pushed down and won't engage the tongue
-As the last round is chambered, the follower goes up, pushes the tongue, which raises a little nub that holds the bolt back

What I had to do:
-Shorten the tongue so it clears the back of the casing if inserted all the way back in the mag but can still be pushed up by the mag follower

I guess my lack of success with the SKS conversion to XCR mags project bore SOME fruit as a learning experience :cool:
 
Since this is the T97 thread, PICS!

UaQ77mh.jpg


I had this scope mounted on the carry handle rail, and it was just too high. Now, I can squish my cheek in properly and it feels a lot better.
 
Thanks TRaTSeRiF, for that nugget of info..checked and on factory mag just barely clears, pmag gen 2 no problem and 2 different Lars it hits. Its help from guys like you that make life just a bit easier for me!
 
del3840 said:
Thanks TRaTSeRiF, for that nugget of info..checked and on factory mag just barely clears, pmag gen 2 no problem and 2 different Lars it hits. Its help from guys like you that make life just a bit easier for me!
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No worries... Glad it was of some help. You raise a good point about having to be careful not to go full retard with the Dremel or you might have issues with it working properly on factory/p mags. A lot easier to remove metal than to put it back on, so it's always a good idea to go little by little and just test-fit.
 
I've been thinking about getting a T97, but just saw a YouTube video where it was mentioned that the T97 really messes up the brass, leaving a huge dent in the side of the case. That pretty much makes it unusable for reloading, and as I like to reload this would be pretty close to a show stopper for me. Any of you who have a T97 can you confirm or refute the T97's case abuse tendencies?? TIA
 
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