- Location
- Vancouver BC
Dovetailed
if the model wasn't sold with it, you need it drilled and tapped on the barrel.
UPDATE: Rossi Ranch Hand Mares Leg
- Thread starter driller212
- Start date
Dovetailed
if the model wasn't sold with it, you need it drilled and tapped on the barrel.
I shot mine today. I put a rear stock on it from another rossi 92 to help with sighting in and to get a feel for the gun. The stock was from a 357 rossi 20 inch carbine and the fit was a bit off but it was functional. I was shooting middle of the road 240 grain hollowpoints and round nose and they feed and cycled through the action smoothly. I was hitting high and to the left so I drifted the rear sight a bit to the right and that got the windage correct, but even with the rear sight elevator removed, and the rear sight resting on the barrel, I was still hitting high by about 12 inches or so at 100 yards. This was with me burying the front bead into the very bottom of the buckhorn notch. Once I started aiming low by about a foot I started getting hits on 12X18 inch metal plates out to a hundred yards.
I then changed the stock back to the mare's leg and tried that out.....using the same push pull technique I've used in the past for birdshead style pistol gripped shotguns, I found the gun to handle quite well and recoil was similar or less then a short 12 guage with slugs. I did notice that the shape of the large round lever seemed to aid in cocking the gun with the rear of the stock unsupported. Instead of working the lever in downward arc the big round loop allows you to drive the lever hand in a more forward thrusting motion that helped to keep the gun level while cycling. I was still able to get hit's off hand with the short stock out at 100 yards on the metal plates. Point of aim was a foot low centered on the metal bar holding the plates. I was probably getting about 35% hits at 100 yards on the 12"X18" plates and about70% at 50 yards. More practice and better regulated sights should help.
I'm going to look into ordering a higher front sight and see if that improves things and I'm also going to order a button plug from Steve's to replace the ridiculous safety that these guns have on the bolt!
Taking the rear sight right off and using the stock front sight as a bead would probably get the elevation close but I'd really like to mount an XS peep on the rear if possible and that will need a taller sight for sure....
What this handy little gun really needs is some forward mounted rail options.... Maybe a little project for someone with machining skills?
Here's a few quick pictures from the range. I removed the saddle ring or should I say rattle ring and replaced it with a loop of cord.
I then changed the stock back to the mare's leg and tried that out.....using the same push pull technique I've used in the past for birdshead style pistol gripped shotguns, I found the gun to handle quite well and recoil was similar or less then a short 12 guage with slugs. I did notice that the shape of the large round lever seemed to aid in cocking the gun with the rear of the stock unsupported. Instead of working the lever in downward arc the big round loop allows you to drive the lever hand in a more forward thrusting motion that helped to keep the gun level while cycling. I was still able to get hit's off hand with the short stock out at 100 yards on the metal plates. Point of aim was a foot low centered on the metal bar holding the plates. I was probably getting about 35% hits at 100 yards on the 12"X18" plates and about70% at 50 yards. More practice and better regulated sights should help.
I'm going to look into ordering a higher front sight and see if that improves things and I'm also going to order a button plug from Steve's to replace the ridiculous safety that these guns have on the bolt!
Taking the rear sight right off and using the stock front sight as a bead would probably get the elevation close but I'd really like to mount an XS peep on the rear if possible and that will need a taller sight for sure....
What this handy little gun really needs is some forward mounted rail options.... Maybe a little project for someone with machining skills?
Here's a few quick pictures from the range. I removed the saddle ring or should I say rattle ring and replaced it with a loop of cord.
Edward Teach
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- who cares?
Yeah I wish they'd tried a little harder with the sights. As it is they're not even close.
- Location
- Vancouver BC
Yeah. That's why i'm thinking of adjustible fibre optic sights that fit into the dovetail. That'll make it much much easier to dial them in and get some real accuracy out of the gun.
G.Mitchell
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Grande Prairie Alberta
Wow I was totally wrong, it is a dovetail rear... There goes a few of my plans.
Anyone know of a dovetail to rail adapter? Basically a dovetail plug with a VERY short piece of rail that would fit in the dovetail space. Then a micro dot type electronic sight could be used instead of the rear sight.
Hmm time to do more digging I guess.
Something like this, anyone know if it would fit?
http://centerfiresystems.com/mntm1c02.aspx
Anyone know of a dovetail to rail adapter? Basically a dovetail plug with a VERY short piece of rail that would fit in the dovetail space. Then a micro dot type electronic sight could be used instead of the rear sight.
Hmm time to do more digging I guess.
Something like this, anyone know if it would fit?
http://centerfiresystems.com/mntm1c02.aspx
Mitchell, I doubt anything would fit without modification due to different barrel contour's but custom made there are options and if enough people are interested maybe we can get some rails made up?
Ideally I'd like the rail either screwed or soldered to the barrel so it doesn't move and have it milled out down the middle to still allow peeps and front sight use.
I'm going to modify my rear sight blade to lower the notch and hot melt glue an extension on the front blade to see what kind of height I need up front and whether or not sights that high are available?
What I think might be nice is to find a tri- rail that could clamp onto the barrel up front and allow mounting a small light on the side while at the same time creating an elevated site base on top of the barrel that could be machined with a dove tail sight to give me the right height.....I first need to find out how far off the front sight is with a modified rear sight.
Ideally I'd like the rail either screwed or soldered to the barrel so it doesn't move and have it milled out down the middle to still allow peeps and front sight use.
I'm going to modify my rear sight blade to lower the notch and hot melt glue an extension on the front blade to see what kind of height I need up front and whether or not sights that high are available?
What I think might be nice is to find a tri- rail that could clamp onto the barrel up front and allow mounting a small light on the side while at the same time creating an elevated site base on top of the barrel that could be machined with a dove tail sight to give me the right height.....I first need to find out how far off the front sight is with a modified rear sight.
G.Mitchell
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Grande Prairie Alberta
To bad there isn't an easy solution.
Seems odd that the sights are so far off. If there was an easy way to mount a small rail a T1 or clone would take care of the sight issues.
I wonder if all of them have sight issues...
Seems odd that the sights are so far off. If there was an easy way to mount a small rail a T1 or clone would take care of the sight issues.
I wonder if all of them have sight issues...
- Location
- Vancouver BC
not off the top of my head - but i do know one guy who bought one of those metal inserts for the dovetail that you use when you aren't using the dovetail (steve sells them). They're basically just to improve the look so there's no 'hole' in your barrel if you switch to rear peep sites.
he then attached a micro dot to that. (jb weld or something?) Anyway, he got it quite good and then put that assembly into the dovetail. Claimed it worked great.
G.Mitchell
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Grande Prairie Alberta
Wow I was totally wrong, it is a dovetail rear... There goes a few of my plans.
Anyone know of a dovetail to rail adapter? Basically a dovetail plug with a VERY short piece of rail that would fit in the dovetail space. Then a micro dot type electronic sight could be used instead of the rear sight.
Hmm time to do more digging I guess.
Something like this, anyone know if it would fit?
http://centerfiresystems.com/mntm1c02.aspx
I just falowed the link you provided just out of curiosity i looked at the cataloge of other firearmes etc they have available. Wow i could cry it sure sucks living in canucistan
If you took a standard rifle base with a curved bottom, you could drill and tap on of those dovetail fillers and the contour on the bottom of the base would work with the contour of the barrel to keep the two in alignment
It might take some trying to find the best base to work with but a slightly imperfect fit could be rectified with a little bedding compound
The Trijicon shotgun front sights attach simply by bedding to the bead sight and hold up to 12 ga recoil and all sorts of abuse so I am confident that this will survive .44 mag recoil
It might take some trying to find the best base to work with but a slightly imperfect fit could be rectified with a little bedding compound
The Trijicon shotgun front sights attach simply by bedding to the bead sight and hold up to 12 ga recoil and all sorts of abuse so I am confident that this will survive .44 mag recoil
G.Mitchell
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Grande Prairie Alberta
I was thinking even some JB weld or something similar filled into the dovetail and then drilled and threaded may work, especially for a small sight like a Aimpoint T1 or clone.
- Location
- Vancouver BC
I think a better trick might well be to jb weld the sight to something like this:
Then that goes in the gun. You could never take it off the mirco sight but you could take both out of the dovetail and put something else in later if you wanted.
Seems like a better way to go, considering it's only a ten dollar part.
Well I modified my rear site with a hacksaw blade and went back to the range today for another go.....took the hacksaw with me and after a few shots I dropped the notch a bit further and finally got it to where I could see the brass bead and make hits! Now that I can see the bead I will reshape the buckhorn so it jives with the new notch....
I also made a quick rear attachment point out of a piece of seatbelt material and rigged a quick and dirty 2 point sling setup with an innertube and one of the voodoo bungy slings I got from Whanstalls. I'm not sure I'm sold on the sling as the gun carries so easy in the hand and shooting without the sling felt a bit more relaxed.
Here's a range clip shooting cans at about 25 yards and a Plate at 100yards
Hit,miss,hit
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0852-1.mp4
Here's another clip without the sling, Hit plate at 100,hit plate at 50 and hit can at 25yards.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0864.mp4
Here's the mandatory one hander...missed the plate at 50 yards. Pretty tourquey and not as comfortable has two hands!
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0865.mp4
I also made a quick rear attachment point out of a piece of seatbelt material and rigged a quick and dirty 2 point sling setup with an innertube and one of the voodoo bungy slings I got from Whanstalls. I'm not sure I'm sold on the sling as the gun carries so easy in the hand and shooting without the sling felt a bit more relaxed.
Here's a range clip shooting cans at about 25 yards and a Plate at 100yards
Hit,miss,hit
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0852-1.mp4
Here's another clip without the sling, Hit plate at 100,hit plate at 50 and hit can at 25yards.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0864.mp4
Here's the mandatory one hander...missed the plate at 50 yards. Pretty tourquey and not as comfortable has two hands!
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b358/Candown/?action=view¤t=MVI_0865.mp4
- Location
- Vancouver BC
Sounds like you're improving pretty quick.
Dude - no offense intended at all but seriously with that sling - I BET it was more relaxed with it off
Sounds like you're improving pretty quick.
Dude - no offense intended at all but seriously with that sling - I BET it was more relaxed with it off
None taken.
I think 2 point is the way to go because it doesn't flop around as much for carry but it would be easier to make your own sling for this. The Voodoo one I would have to modify to make it work.... The sling actually works better then it looks but the inner tube is redundant as I just need a way of clipping the rear point to the sling. I just wanted to go and shoot the thing this morning and the innertube was one of the materials on hand...
Mostly I was happy to get it somewhat sighted in!
I would like to make a connection with velcro overlaps like on a surfboard leash for the two connecting points.... it would be easy to remove but would be a softer quieter connection as opposed to plastic or metal connectors.
Gatehouse
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Pemberton BC
Wow, quite an adjustment needed. I'd file that buckhorn down quite a bit to remove the big ear flaps sticking up high!
I'd probably square them off, but that is just me.
I'd probably square them off, but that is just me.
Wow, quite an adjustment needed. I'd file that buckhorn down quite a bit to remove the big ear flaps sticking up high!
I'd probably square them off, but that is just me.
They need a trimming that's for sure! I think I'll keep the buckhorn style though for now....Your greasy ax worked great for my sight drifting by the way...
These carbines could definitely use a sight base on the barrel.
