NavyShooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- XMU Local .303
I still vote for the Hilti-Mod.
;-)
;-)
Using a 15/64" Drill bit to drill a chamber for 10/22
- Thread starter t_102
- Start date
Actually mine is a GM barrel and the warning does warn against extraction! One reason of this was mainly due to their inherent angle of the extractor pocket; it pushes the factory extractor too far to engage the rim fully. I've looked into the VQ extractor too, and instead of buying it, I took a file to file off the excessively curved part of the extractor. It indeed "helped" fixing a part of the extraction problem.
However, because of the bullet choice, CCI Subsonics 40gr HP, I suspect that since it is a HP, the thick part of the bullet actually starts a tad early compared to 36gr HP, just to make up for the loss of volume in the HP cavity. IIRC, those 36gr HP does tend to be easier to extract.
I was also suspecting, although unlikely, is that since it is a "match" barrel, the rifling might be tighter, therefore may contribute to those CCI Subsonic 40gr sticking...
canucklehead
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, AB
A stronger extractor spring will likely resolve the rest of the issues (IMHO).
I use 40-45gr HP's all the time - ZERO issues extracting.
Polishing the chamber + the VQ extractor + stronger spring would have cured your issue without damaging the barrel.
I use 40-45gr HP's all the time - ZERO issues extracting.
Polishing the chamber + the VQ extractor + stronger spring would have cured your issue without damaging the barrel.
canucklehead
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, AB
I believe mine is a Power Custom. I've had it for years...at the time I think t was like $5?
Heres some pics for you guys.
First up, I know the drill is on backwards, but I wanted to show the size of the drill, #1 ~ 0.228"
Next up is an empty casing with the bullet, propellent pulled out, and the priming compound washed out (made to test the gap safely). If you look closely, there is a gap in between, not much, just a bit. If you can see it in the picture, the gap sure is large enough for the case to slip in and out. Look closely beside the extractor pocket.
Finally, a picture of the chamber condition.
Much polishing work to be done
First up, I know the drill is on backwards, but I wanted to show the size of the drill, #1 ~ 0.228"
Next up is an empty casing with the bullet, propellent pulled out, and the priming compound washed out (made to test the gap safely). If you look closely, there is a gap in between, not much, just a bit. If you can see it in the picture, the gap sure is large enough for the case to slip in and out. Look closely beside the extractor pocket.
Finally, a picture of the chamber condition.
Much polishing work to be done
I went about a tiny bit deeper than a 22lr cartridge(up until the end of the thick part of the CCI Subsonic 40gr HP bullet, where rifing usually engages) length into the chamber. Goal was to cut out about 0.025" of rifling, so the rifling doesn't grab onto the bullet when chambering......all to avoid the situation where the live round won't extract(In case it's a dud and you want to pull it out)
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Kayser Sose
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Southern Van Isle
I'd have gone with the lapping technique.
That's what she said.
- Location
- Saskatoon Saskatchewan
i can't believe I'm so late to the party. Just curious but what do you use a 28" gm barrel for if you don't care about accuracy? The most important thing to do to a 10/22 to consistantly cycle ss ammo is to polish all bearing surfaces to a near mirror polish. You can also cut coils off your op rod spring one at a time and find the sweet spot by trial and error. Did you even remove your barrel from the action for this show? I can't imagine trying to do what you did with the barrel attached. Entertaining thread. If anybody else wants the cliff notes:
OP: can I?
Everybody: No
OP: I just did it
OP: can I?
Everybody: No
OP: I just did it
28" Barrel for making subsonic rounds sound like pellet gun, that was the purpose of buying the barrel, it is fitted with a reddot so I wasn't looking for accuracy, I have other guns that does the job.
Main reason of the modification, although somewhat related to occasional jamming, is that the live round will not extract because the rifling starts too early, modification was done to remove a bit of the rifling. This is a dangerous situation since not always do I have a screw driver with me to pry the cartridge out. Being caught with a loaded gun on the road is not fun(never happened, but don't want to find out).
Yes the barrel was removed when work was done to it.
Pretty funny cliff notes I must say
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- Location
- Saskatoon Saskatchewan
ok I see. I think a volquartsen exact edge extractor would have saved the life of a certain gm barrel in this case. Try one out. About $15. So did I read that right and you got caught on the road with a loaded gun? Why could you not just fire it before you got into your vehicle? Or if you were at home playing with live ammo than use a cleaning rod?
No, the problem was that I was at the range to fire this gun for the first time and booo... turns out the ammo wouldn't ignite no matter how many times the hammer were dropped, and it wouldn't extract either. Luckily I always have allen wrench inside my range box whenever I shoot this gun, but it was a PITA to pry it out everytime theres a dud or uneven priming compound in the rim. I was worried that if the situation came where this happened and I did not have any tools to extract it out..........
I filed my extractor to have the shape of the VQ extractor, the claw would just dent the rim badly and will just slip right by and not extract. That was how bad the bullets were stuck.
Figured the only way was to remove some rifling. Some say it would've been better to get the gunsmith to do it, probably true, but I went down the route of doing it myself.
The rifle seems to shoot quite well and no jams yet. I will test for accuracy and see if that part has suffered and, if it did, to what extent. More info to come for those interested.
