VZ58: Optics, sights & mounts. update sept
- Thread starter Curtton
- Start date
New Infratek Forend - further to
The top piece is bullet proof - I expect no P O I change because of the allen pressure screws at the bottom rear of the top piece that put pressure on the receiver. As long as you set them and leave them alone nothing will change.
However -
The bottom handguard fits loosely using the old pin through the receiver, there is bottom forend play horizontally back and forth. An allen screw in the bottom of the handguard screwing vertically up , putting pressure on the receiver is designed to solve this.It loosens from the vibration of shooting. The screw is tiny and tightening it sufficiently will strip the hex head. It may hold if you use blue lock tite but I am sceptical. You must lock tite it or it will eventually fall out.I think when I mount it permanently I will epoxy bed the front of it to the front ferrule plate to take up the slack so that the bottom set screw has less work load.
I am using an Infratek plastic lower handguard for an 858, but for a krink 58 the extra weight of the new aluminum lower would be beneficial.
Also - the only downfall of the new upper is the cam lever to lock it in to the rifle - it cannot be used unless your rear scope ring is very far forward and may not work with some scopes. The lever hits the scope ring before it opens. It will also not work with an Eotech for the same reason unless you remove the Eotech first. Loss of zero possibilities with an Eotech are greater. I am now using an Aimpoint Micro which mounts far enough forward for no interference of the camming lever so I can remove the top handguard with the optic in place.
Will do the testing this weekend. Will shoot a group,and remove replace the top and re shoot. Will also remove and replace hot gun cold gun etc. And see what happens. I predict no zero change.
It will make life so much easier for cleaning - now I can start an all those crates of corrosive czech !
Just tested Palinak's new rail
FAR SUPERIOR to the old one {xept the extra weight}
I put a 2 power leupold on it and shot 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a hundred (cold barrel) ALL DAY ! (3 RD GROUPS)
5 round groups were 1 inch at a hundred all day.
POI did not shift hot barrel or cold barrel ! - [yes the groups did get larger when the barrel was hot]
Ammo was wolf target and norinco non corrosive -{ both ammos shot the same tightness - norinco 2 inches lower }
I think I will use the new top end with the old plastic bottom end and save the weight. Pics to follow ---
The top piece is bullet proof - I expect no P O I change because of the allen pressure screws at the bottom rear of the top piece that put pressure on the receiver. As long as you set them and leave them alone nothing will change.
However -
The bottom handguard fits loosely using the old pin through the receiver, there is bottom forend play horizontally back and forth. An allen screw in the bottom of the handguard screwing vertically up , putting pressure on the receiver is designed to solve this.It loosens from the vibration of shooting. The screw is tiny and tightening it sufficiently will strip the hex head. It may hold if you use blue lock tite but I am sceptical. You must lock tite it or it will eventually fall out.I think when I mount it permanently I will epoxy bed the front of it to the front ferrule plate to take up the slack so that the bottom set screw has less work load.
I am using an Infratek plastic lower handguard for an 858, but for a krink 58 the extra weight of the new aluminum lower would be beneficial.
Also - the only downfall of the new upper is the cam lever to lock it in to the rifle - it cannot be used unless your rear scope ring is very far forward and may not work with some scopes. The lever hits the scope ring before it opens. It will also not work with an Eotech for the same reason unless you remove the Eotech first. Loss of zero possibilities with an Eotech are greater. I am now using an Aimpoint Micro which mounts far enough forward for no interference of the camming lever so I can remove the top handguard with the optic in place.
Will do the testing this weekend. Will shoot a group,and remove replace the top and re shoot. Will also remove and replace hot gun cold gun etc. And see what happens. I predict no zero change.
It will make life so much easier for cleaning - now I can start an all those crates of corrosive czech !
ammo
That was non sorted wolf non corrosive target - norinco silver box non corrosive was just as tight only lower print - non sorted czech corrosive , same tightness with the odd non shooter flyer - sorted czech has less of those flyers. The serb non corrosive hunting ammo is tight also.
That was non sorted wolf non corrosive target - norinco silver box non corrosive was just as tight only lower print - non sorted czech corrosive , same tightness with the odd non shooter flyer - sorted czech has less of those flyers. The serb non corrosive hunting ammo is tight also.
Sorting Milsurp Ammo
Use a bullet comparator that attaches to a caliper - It measures off the bullet ogive - shoot the same OAL's together - each round is EXACTLY the same distance from the lands and grooves and therefore prints tighter .
Use a bullet comparator that attaches to a caliper - It measures off the bullet ogive - shoot the same OAL's together - each round is EXACTLY the same distance from the lands and grooves and therefore prints tighter .
A few VZ-58 optics questions.
I have the Russian style side rail mount (seen here
).
-What is the difference in mounts between an AK-style, SKS/SVD-style and dove tail side mount? I've seen all three in specs of various scopes that I'm looking at, but can't tell what the difference is.
-Will I have to remove the setup and re-zero it each time I have to take apart the rifle for cleaning?
-Does anyone know where to find quality rings for a Weaver rail (I have this here
)
Thanks
I have the Russian style side rail mount (seen here
-What is the difference in mounts between an AK-style, SKS/SVD-style and dove tail side mount? I've seen all three in specs of various scopes that I'm looking at, but can't tell what the difference is.
-Will I have to remove the setup and re-zero it each time I have to take apart the rifle for cleaning?
-Does anyone know where to find quality rings for a Weaver rail (I have this here
Thanks
the main differences between the SVD and the AK mounts are , AK has a 1/2-1 " forward offset and uses the backend to stop it from moving forward during fire. having the mount forward over the ejection port , it will be hit by casings.
SVD has no forward offset and it uses a lug in the front to stop the mount from moving forward.
in your pic above, thats a universal rail and an AK mount . i prefer using the SVD mount and rail for red dots:
goodoptics.com/catalog/rails
SVD has no forward offset and it uses a lug in the front to stop the mount from moving forward.
in your pic above, thats a universal rail and an AK mount . i prefer using the SVD mount and rail for red dots:
goodoptics.com/catalog/rails
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I'll take two.
- Location
- Ol' North Shore
Count me in.
An idea...
Now before I say what I'm about to say just know I think its a pretty good train of thought.
We looked at this type of design and in the end passed. The main issue with this idea is heat transfer to the optic. For example on a cool winter day (-15deg) I've had the barrel so hot from extended shooting that is started to melt my gortex pants with touching. On a warm/hot summer day you will fry most red dots from the heat when under sustained fire. This has been a complaint with the M14 scout mounts which have much more material to absorb and radiate the heat, then a small mount that is in contact with the barrel.
Hope this info helps.
- Location
- Ol' North Shore
One could always mount a heatsink and computer fan to each side, run it off a 9 volt.
