Wet tumbling

Franklin Arsenal rotary

Bought mine from Amazon a few weeks ago cleans the inside of the case necks too good.... had to start dipping the case necks in mica before reloading so that the bullets would seat without scoring the bullet jacket! Works great.
Rodney
 
Have any of you guys noticed the necks sometimes have a burr after tumbling, also having your extreme spread over the chrony greater with super clean necks vs. vibratory tumbled necks. ? I remember reading an article about it somewhere, and I think I have experienced it first hand, but I'm not 100% sure since my chrony is a POS.
 
Same question here on burrs from wet tumbling. Read precision handloader are just wiping the outer with a brush inside to avoid WT burrs.

What SD and ES are folks getting? Just got my magnetoSpeed last week, tested bunch of 308 AMAX. Best SD=8, ES=17 on lapua brass with NO prep.

Will be testing some 1F WT this week to determine if WT is good for precision/burrs or just wipe/brush.


WT was excellent for dirty range brass. Bought bunch from CGN sponsor that was suppose to be 1F that looked green. DT did poor job, had trouble FL sizing. WT got them shiny, FL glided smoothly.
 
Same question here on burrs from wet tumbling. Read precision handloader are just wiping the outer with a brush inside to avoid WT burrs.

What SD and ES are folks getting? Just got my magnetoSpeed last week, tested bunch of 308 AMAX. Best SD=8, ES=17 on lapua brass with NO prep.

Will be testing some 1F WT this week.

I'm envious :)
 
The burr from wet tumbling can be greatly reduced by filling the tumbler about an inch from the top, and don't chamfer the case mouth too sharp, or you will get a wire edge that burrs easier.
 
MagnetoSpeed is very convenient to use; don't have to call/wait for seize fire. Moved POI up by 5" but grouping stay similar. Had 5 shot groups touching avg .4" - .7" .

Franklin WT for shiny brass, RCBS chargemaster combo, Co-Ax and ultra micrometer seater makes reloading precision ammo so much easier.
I'm envious :)
 
Have any of you guys noticed the necks sometimes have a burr after tumbling, also having your extreme spread over the chrony greater with super clean necks vs. vibratory tumbled necks. ? I remember reading an article about it somewhere, and I think I have experienced it first hand, but I'm not 100% sure since my chrony is a POS.

The effect of the burr will depend on your chamber and how much clearance there is between the bullet and the chamber's neck area. 0.004" is common for LR chambers. New cases and cases that have been tumbled in SS media have case mouths that are peened (mushroomed). You can see it looking at them.





The mouth has been beaten down. If you looked at a sectioned view of the case mouth, it would look similar to this (same effect):

hammer.jpg


If you run your finger nail along the edge of the case neck over the case mouth, you can feel the overhang of the mushroomed material. If you can feel the overhand, there is probably at least 0.001" of material on either side of the case mouth (inside and outside). Once you seat a bullet, the inside gets pushed to the outside, and you now have a 0.002" ring around the case mouth of material above and beyond the thickness of your neck. If your chamber was designed with 0.004" clearance over the neck wall thickness, you now have that material being pinched between the chamber wall and the bullet. Since the mushroomed material is not consistent, the tension this creates on the bullet will not be consistent and the loads will never shoot as well as they would if you had a clean bullet release.

In my chambers, SDs were slightly higher, but still single digit. But, the effect could be seen on paper and in my pressure traces.

No burrs:





Yeah, the brass looked nice and shiny, but the burr had an effect in my custom chambers, and after a few cycles of cleaning, rechamfering/deburring, firing and cleaning, the SS media had beaten down the case mouths to the point that they were below trim length and the burr would no longer be removed by my Giraud. Then it was a real PITA removing them. No thanks! Went back to ultrasonic. Brass doesn't look as nice, but it comes out with the chamfering and deburring intact and it shoots a lot better.
 
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kombayotch> Thanks for that excellent post on burrs from WT.

Just finished WT some 1F and 2F Lapua 308 brass. Will post up some pics tonight comparing them to new brass.

Good excuse to get an ultrasonic.
What ultrasonic do you have/recommend for personal use? The Goldilocks syndrome, not too big but enough to do brass and most handguns.

PS. Where did you get access to a pressure trace?
 
Been using a Branson 2510 unit I got off of flea-bay for a few years. I'm sure there are better ones available now.

You get Pressure Trace directly from the mfg. Just Google "RSI Pressure Trace".
 
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Ok, so ordered the right Frankford arsenal tumbler. Question. How are you gentlemen emptying the brass and not loosing all your stainless pins in the sink? I'm sure there's an easy way but it seems like I haven't found it yet.

Ps: the results are AMAZING
 
Ok, so ordered the right Frankford arsenal tumbler. Question. How are you gentlemen emptying the brass and not loosing all your stainless pins in the sink? I'm sure there's an easy way but it seems like I haven't found it yet.

Ps: the results are AMAZING

Pour slowly, and I keep a 1 in square rare earth magnet right at the drain in the bathtub
 
It works just fine, alot of people suggest giving the pins a run through first to clean th, em of any factory lube. We all know the soap/lemi combo works so use the pre-packaged solution to clean the pins

A lot of post here I want to add to a little to what Chrmdome said above. You "SHOULD" tumble just your pins "FIRST" and let them tumble overnight.

The new pins are cut and have sharp ends just like you had cut them with a set of dikes/diagonal cutters. This makes each pin "sharp" at each end and they should be tumbled a "long time" by themselves to ware down the tips of the pins. If you do not you will wonder why you spent so much money for wet tumbling when your cases comes out looking like a herd of beavers had been chewing on them.

Some pins are better quality and you never see the problem and the cheaper pins from China will eat your brass and make you cry. So just tumble the pins over night the first time without any brass. I have the Thumler's Tumbler with the rubber lining and after the first run and dumping the "BLACK" water out of it the rubber lining had been sand blasted by the pins.

Below the Thumler's Tumbler innards and when you see the rubber completely dry after the first tumble you will wonder how long the rubber will last

SSpins_zpsa1b9957a.jpg


Below is the first tumbler/media separator I bought to get my hands out of a five gallon bucket and shaking a hand full of pins. To me separating the pins is the most time consuming step of wet tumbling. The pictured separator work OK because it fit in the deep sink but it would sling the pins out so a drain screen is needed and a telescopic magnet it the top photo will grab the escaped pins. I now use the Green RCBS enclosed separator, it works very well BUT it will not fit in my deep sink. So I separate on the garage floor and the concrete floor gets a little wet.

basket_zps81930a46.jpg


Now I want to compliment Chrmdome for a very good suggestion in another of his posts here. Chrmdome said to buy a whole kit like the Frankford arsenal with everything in it and be done with it. I separated a lot of pins by hand in a five gallon bucket and it gets real old quick.

Below, when all else fails read the directions, at Accurate Shooters reloading forum one of the members who is a engineer wrote a "War and Peace" length posting on the right way to wet tumble. He was giving case weight variables, water temps, run times, etc. I stayed out of the engineering nightmare post for a long time then posted the photo below. And then said this isn't rocket science your water harness and how dirty the cases are will change the soap amounts (instructions say 1 to 2 tablespoons of dish soap as the variable) and all you need to do if follow the directions and not reinvent the wheel.

STM_zps9d3bacae.jpg


KISS - Keep it simple stupid

The best part of wet tumbling for me is this, I'm 65 and loved my revolvers and bolt action and have brass OCD. My two sons told me I had to get modern and buy firearms that throw perfectly good brass away and make you go look for and hope you find it. And this severely aggravated my brass OCD nightmares, and wet tumbling didn't help find the missing brass but it solved a big problem. When the brass hits the dirt the case can have imbedded dirt and grit and this can end up inside your dies and scratch the sized cases. And wet tumbling removes any imbedded grit before sizing your cases, and keeps both the brass and dies clean. To make the wet tumbling perfect it should have a brass magnet/metal detector to find those poor lost cases.
 
your RCBS enclosed media separator should fit on top of a 5 gallon bucket in your sink, that's what I do with mine in my new laundry sink in the garage. No mess, no fuss.
 
your RCBS enclosed media separator should fit on top of a 5 gallon bucket in your sink, that's what I do with mine in my new laundry sink in the garage. No mess, no fuss.

Slavex did you ever read a suggestion by someone else and realize your getting old and are half brain dead.
There are several empty five gallon buckets stacked around the sink.


Thanks Slavex, I'm sitting here laughing at myself and shaking my head.
 
No problem dude, I too have done exactly as you. Had stuff sitting around, not realizing what I could use it for, then someone else says "hey man I do this". I appreciate the insights, then go home and beat my head against the wall in private lol.
 
Originally Posted by rl4930 View Post

Have any of you guys noticed the necks sometimes have a burr after tumbling, also having your extreme spread over the chrony greater with super clean necks vs. vibratory tumbled necks. ? I remember reading an article about it somewhere, and I think I have experienced it first hand, but I'm not 100% sure since my chrony is a POS.


The peening of the case mouth is caused by the cases hitting each other in the tumbler. The solution to this is complicated because it deals with the size of the tumbler, the shape of the drum, the speed the drum rotates, the size and amount of brass, and how much water is in the drum. I have the Thumler's Tumbler Model B High Speed, and now they sell three different models. So you have a mix of factory made and home made tumblers and you either follow the tumbling direction that came with your unit or make up your own tumbling rules.

Below on the left is a .223/5.56 case I tumbled "TOO LONG" and peened the case mouth, and it had been trimmed and chamfered the previous firing "AND" I did not follow the printed instructions. The case on the right is a brand new unfired Winchester case that had been dry tumbled in one of their giant tumblers. Also I'm 65 and have chronologically gifted eyesight and the case mouths didn't look that bad with the naked until I took these macro photos.

But there is a reason they make case trimmers and deburring tools.


brasspins002_zpsa284f342.jpg


And when all else fails read the directions.

STM_zps9d3bacae.jpg


#3, I wasn't weighing the brass and # 6 I fell asleep and the cases tumbled over 8 hours. I solved one problem by buying a cheap digital kitchen scale and weighing the cases, instead of throwing the brass in a coffee can and saying that looks about right.

And now super clean necks and bullet grip/neck tension, the clean necks and the bullet can bond together over time. And the bench rest shooters at Accurate Shooter who wet tumble, seat their bullets a little long and just before a match they will do the final bullet seating to break the bond.

If you wet tumble, chamfer the case mouth before you size the case and remove any burs or peening. (if your doing things right peening should never be an issue)

And below is what happens when you do not tumble your pins first to the remove the sharp ends of the pins. And fall asleep in the recliner and wake up with a stiff neck and a bunch of cases that had been chewed on by beavers.


peen-b_zps89c5c4f1.jpg


Bottom line, wet tumbling is great when you follow the instruction, chamfer the case mouth and decide what method you are going to use about the inside of the case neck. Don't fall asleep and keep checking the tumbler to see if the cases are clean and work out your tumbling times.

And if you want to read the "War and Peace" length novel on the subject go the reloading forum at Accurate Shooter. Several engineers were involved and turned a simple subject into a engineering nightmare.

And now the really sad part, my older neighbor had a heart attack so I snow blow and shovel for him among other things . And his son is a local policeman and he keeps bringing me five gallon buckets of once fired .223/5.56 brass. Then my sons say "dads got more brass" and they buy 8 pound container of powder and bring it to me. It never ends.......

halfdone_zps8557fc4b.jpg


bucketsofbrass_zps6927af18.jpg


Cleaning Cases - Part 2: Wet Tumbling
http://www.massreloading.com/reloading_wet_tumbling.html


STM Tumbling Tips (or when all else fails read the directions or Google the subject)

Frequently Asked Questions

http://www.stainlesstumblingmedia.com/tips/
 
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Ok, so ordered the right Frankford arsenal tumbler. Question. How are you gentlemen emptying the brass and not loosing all your stainless pins in the sink? I'm sure there's an easy way but it seems like I haven't found it yet.

Ps: the results are AMAZING

After I'm done tumbling, I just pour it all through a paint strainer to get rid of the water.

Something like this:
Nylon-Paint-Strainer.jpg


It catches all the casings and the SS Media and lets the liquids drain out freely. The 59 cent solution.
 
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