has anyone tried instaling one of the Magwedge quick rails on a VZ58?

Any chance you'd be interested in doing a full length upper rail? I wonder if you could somehow make a rail that is both the upper handguard and the scope mount combined.

I'd really like a monolithic type rail for my VZ58.

I wonder if such a thing could be done?

Sounds a little too complicated. I would settle for a handguard with a top rail that is the same height as this new rail.
 
Oh that wasnt what I was implying. I'm interested in this rail for the Vz because the ejection from the gun is meant to be canted to the right so I think the rail will be better on the Vz than the kwik rail on the sks. I had issues with the sks version under rapid fire. In the end I figured it was the angle or lack thereof of the ejecting casings because they seem to go every which way from the sks without a rail overhead. Mine at least.
 
If you guys dig deep inside red rifles section. I wrote about similar set up few months ago. Czech army tried similar set up in early 2000s but it completely failed they called it "fiasco"

May be mag wedge got it right but if 100 engineers at Ceska Zbrojovka failed to deliver reliable product I highly doubt it

Things to watch out when you guys try the new rail, this is where the czechs failed:

1. During rapid fire empty cases would bound back to the action there was a failure on average 20-40 shots
2. Because VZ58 has a specific up and down flex when fires rails if mounted to rigidly would brake or effect harmonics of the rifle thus causing either rail failure or severely affecting accuracy of the rifle. If the rail was mounted with some degree of flexibility to avoid damage and allow the rifle to flex naturally during fire. Accuracy suffered since the whole set up vibrated causing poor accuracy
3. If rifle warmed up during shooting it would flex unnaturally since it was held captive by the rail and would change point of impact
 
There's a world of difference between full cyclic suppressive fire, and aimed semi-automatic fire. The weapon's harmonic cycle is only fractions of a second longer than the action cycle time. When the next round fires the instant the bolt goes into battery, those vibrations and movements interact in ways that a semi-auto never has to deal with.
I don't doubt those Czech engineers stressed those rails to failure. I also doubt most Canadian civilian shooters will experience more than a handful of stovepipes the whole time they have this rail mounted.

On a slightly related note, is there a way to modify a VZ58 to eject more to the side, like the SKS Ejection Port Mod?
 
I was at the range on Saturday and we did have some issues with stovepipes.

This was a surprise to me as we had run 100 rounds in a previous range trip without issue. A little investigating appeared to solve the issue. I had started shooting with a scope on the rifle. There were no failures to eject during the 40 rounds or so with the scope mounted. However I was having issues with setting the sdjustment on the scope so switched to a Mepro. I had set the Mepro on the rail in the area of the ejection port and it appeared that brass was striking the corner of the Mepro and causing stovepipes.

I set the Mepro further back on the rail and all seemed to be well again. Note the damage in the corner of the Mepro due to brass striking it.

20150221_172156-e1424732916977.jpg


I suggest you keep the area of the ejection port clear when mounting optics. Note also I added a protective strip of velcro to the rail. I wanted to test the rail with and without the velcro, and the rail seemed to function well with it installed.

Here is a pic of the rifle as requested in prior threads:

20150221_171053-e1424733040411.jpg
 
Bit of a bummer to hear on that but with a bit of scope placement and some tweaking i hope this should work out 100%.
So you suggest now that we put some velcro on the underside of the rail where it ejects?

The rail wouldn't keep the scope zeroed? ?
 
Bit of a bummer to hear on that but with a bit of scope placement and some tweaking i hope this should work out 100%.
So you suggest now that we put some velcro on the underside of the rail where it ejects?

The rail wouldn't keep the scope zeroed? ?

No, that wasn't an issue. The scope is an older milsurp type, possibly for an FN rifle. I couldn't get enough travel out of the adjustments to get the shots on target. Shots were too low even at maximum adjustment. It was a scope issue not a rail issue.

Once the Mepro was on it took all of 30 seconds to get on target and shooting well.

The only issue was the shells striking the Mepro and stovepiping. That, and the gremlin in the damned rifle, LOL.

Once the Mepro was set further back on the rail we had no further issues with stovepipes.

I see I missed your question about the velcro. I suggest adding the velcro to protect the rail from taking a beating from steel cased ammo. Even hard coat anodized aluminum will get damaged by impact with steel cases. If you prefer you can use hockey tape to protect the area ... the velcro is something I included with the SKS rails to acheive the same effect, that's all.
 
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I don't know if this is relevant, or if this information could be helpful in any way, but on my sks kwik rail I did notice dings from brass hitting the flat strip on the under side of the rail that runs along side the shell deflection zone.
 
I don't know if this is relevant, or if this information could be helpful in any way, but on my sks kwik rail I did notice dings from brass hitting the flat strip on the under side of the rail that runs along side the shell deflection zone.

This is normal and does not cause issues with ejection.

I am quite certain the trouble I had earlier was due to the Mepro being mounted over the ejection port and interfering with proper ejection.
 
Magwedge,

I was going to mount a CMR 1-4x on mine. Here's a pic. The scope I think will set even lower than shown in pic. Do you think the adjustment knob will be in the way or getting hit and causing failures? Maybe this is the excuse I need to get a vortex spitfire 3x. Been wanting to try one ;)

 
I would at least move the front mounting bracket further forward. I think it's mainly the mounting brackets that get in the way. The rail should deflect the shell sideways enough to clear that nob shouldn't it? I'm not the expert here but that's what I would think...
 
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