Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

NL-Hunter said:
I knew there was a connection there somewhere, i did some further searching and found a post on another forum. Looks like bolt went from 9 to 6 to 3 lugs in order to reduce manufacturing costs. Thanks again Baribal. ;)
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BTW, TAP is setting up to produce the Lakelander once again.
 
They may, it depends on how they were fitted, but generally, it's a standard Mauser trigger. You can try polishing the mating surfaces of the sear and cocking piece, but ypu need to be careful not to change angles and height, the minimum pressure that type of trigger to be set at is 3 1/2 pounds.
 
1600 I have has an acceptable hunting trigger for the 1950's-60's....but I still prefer the earlier commercial FN98's and M96's they made as I can drop a Timney in there and improve it dramatically.
But older is always better for me anyways....and standardized lol
 
Well, you can do the same with a 1600/1640 but you will need one with a safety and fit the stock in accordance. Not very complicated but I do personally much prefer a 1600/1640 with the Timney/Tradewinds/HVA trigger
 
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My Husky family is growing. Cant beat these slick rigs!!!




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Baribal said:
Well, you can do the same with a 1600/1640 but you will need one with a safety and fit the stock in accordance. Not very complicates but I do personally much prefer a 1600/1640 with the Timney/Tradewinds/HVA trigger
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Don't you have to modify or replace the 1600 cocking piece to work with the current Timney as well?
 
Hitzy said:
Don't you have to modify or replace the 1600 cocking piece to work with the current Timney as well?
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Nope. You have to get the right one, though. One (the # 301) is made for the flat bottomed cocking piece while the # 302 is made to work with the inversed "V" bottomed cocking piece. But either triggers work in the 1600/1640, you then just need to swap the cocking piece. But for one who does have the choice, it's the #301 first.


Good start Matt450, keep 'em coming!! :D
 
So I finished the second stock I was refinishing. This is the one that came with the rifle I bought (Carl Gustafs grade III magnum). It turned out great until I decided to wax it. I don't know if I put too much wax on or what but it's shiny in some spots and dull in others and I've buffed the hell out of it. This was after I put on a second coat of wax. How do I remove the wax?

Here's what it looks like after the first coat, I should have left well enough alone.



 
That sometimes can happen if you didnt get an even coating on the second coat. The solvents that suspend the wax can do that to the lower coating. What kind of wax did you use? Dawn dish soap removes wax as does rubbing alcohol/isopropol. I think I would use the alcohol but Im certainly no expert in this matter
 
Soap or alcohol eh? Interesting, thank you! I used minwax paste wax from Home Depot. I'll do some research on alcohol or soap. I don't want to it to pull the oil out too.
 
Yup they are both common in the auto detailing world for removing wax. A soft microfiber and some isopropol. They both will affect the oil to a certain extent though. Especially dawn it will suck out some oil from the wood.
 
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