Scope bit twice today:) what scope has best eye relief?

Its really easy.

1) Throw away the bushnell. Its the problem.
2) Get rid of that mount. Its an attempt to fix #1; the problem. That's if you cant just turn it around, you might be good there.
3) Buy a Leupold VX3 3.5-10 x 40 with standard Duplex reticle that are on sale all over the place because the VX3i is out now.
4) Get some decent mounts and rings that don't involve windage adjustments.
5) Live long and be happy.
 
Lol, i agree with this 150%, had a weak moment and got talked into buying a bushnell for the t3 300wsm i bought. Well 2 years and a few marks like you have. Now the vx3 3.5-10 has not bit me yet in any power range. The bushnell was ok at the range if you did everything text book, but as soon as you got a bit lazy and did not hold the front down it bit you. Especially when shouldering quick in the field and loooking down hill. I think the design and weight of the t3 make it snap up and not straight back thats why it bites ya. Imho anyway. But get it changed before you start to flinch.
Dogleg said:
Its really easy.

1) Throw away the bushnell. Its the problem.
2) Get rid of that mount. Its an attempt to fix #1; the problem. That's if you cant just turn it around, you might be good there.
3) Buy a Leupold VX3 3.5-10 x 40 with standard Duplex reticle that are on sale all over the place because the VX3i is out now.
4) Get some decent mounts and rings that don't involve windage adjustments.
5) Live long and be happy.
Click to expand...
 
I have used the Bushnell 3200 on a muzzle loader that produced significant recoil, with no issues at all. It all comes down to proper mounting and proper shooting form.
 
Gofast240 said:
Lol, i agree with this 150%, had a weak moment and got talked into buying a bushnell for the t3 300wsm i bought. Well 2 years and a few marks like you have. Now the vx3 3.5-10 has not bit me yet in any power range. The bushnell was ok at the range if you did everything text book, but as soon as you got a bit lazy and did not hold the front down it bit you. Especially when shouldering quick in the field and loooking down hill. I think the design and weight of the t3 make it snap up and not straight back thats why it bites ya. Imho anyway. But get it changed before you start to flinch.
Click to expand...
Yes it seems to jump up and come back on a angle. Every time I pulled the trigger I could literally see the scope coming back and grazing my brow, well except for twice when it just hit me:) I don't think I was developing a flinch because I got a few good groups and there were no erratic fliers. I did 16 5 rnd reloaded shots and about 15 rnds of factory ammo. I just pulled the trigger and hoped for the best. But I couldn't get a good grip on the stock, again I'm going to chalk this up to leaning over to much , into the gun. I'm going to get a better scope and giver another go. I should add that I don't think I'd have an issue if shooting from a standing position .
 
Tikka lists the LOP as 13.2"

I would also say it's your body position. Get more square to the rifle and roll with the recoil.
I'm 5' 4" and have no problem handling recoil from the heavy hitters. I love my 45-70.
I also weigh 210 pounds from years of weightlifting so that may help absorb some recoil.
 
As has been stated, the scope is mounted too far back and too high. A PEPR-style mount is not the best fit for a bolt-action magnum, with a shorter eye-relief scope.

Another key point is to ensure that you set the eye relief (i.e. when mounting the scope) at maximum power. This is a common mounting error with variable eye relief scopes - they are mounted on low power, the eye relief is set, and when the shooter dials up the magnification, they are often forced to creep their cheek weld forward, placing them in a sub-optimal position. To avoid this, try setting the eye relief by following these steps:

1 - finger tighten the scope in the rings with just enough tension to allow the scope to be moved,
2 - set the scope to the highest magnification setting,
3 - stand and assume your normal off-hand shooting position,
4 - close your eyes (don't cheat!),
5 - bring up the rifle and assume your shooting position, and most importantly cheek weld, such that it feels comfortable and natural (keep your eyes shut!),
6 - open your shooting eye and see if you have a full sight picture (i.e. no black ring) - do not adjust your cheek weld to correct the sight picture. Stay put!
7 - slide the scope forward or backward until you have a full sight picture,
8 - repeat the process (close your eyes, bring the rifle up, assume your cheek weld, verify sight picture) until you have a full sight picture, at your natural cheek weld.

Note that this is for a hunting, off-hand setup; shooting at max mag off-hand is usually not practical, but if that is how the rifle will be used, then setting the eye relief at that position is a safety consideration. If you will be shooting at max magnification in a prone position, then set the eye relief based on your cheek weld in that position (they can differ greatly).

Another key factor to pay attention to is whether the scope has constant or variable eye relief. Depending on the brand and model, the eye relief will vary considerably:

Nikon Prostaff: 4" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Nikon Monach: 3.6" - constant eye relief
Leupold VX2: 4.2" at low to 3.7" at high - variable eye relief
Leupold VX3: 4.5" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Sightron SIH: 3.9" at low to 3" at high - variable eye relief
Sightron SII: 4.2" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Bushnell 3500/4500/6500 - 3.3" to 4" - constant eye relief depending on the model
Swarovski Z3 - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Swarovski Z5 - 3.74" - constant eye relief
Zeiss Terra - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Zeiss HD5 - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Nightforce SHV - 3.15" at low to 3.5 at high - variable eye relief
Nightforce NXS - 3.5" to 3.8" - constant eye relief depending on the model

All of the above brands and many more (except Sightron) are available from us, at the best prices in Canada.

Hopefully that helps.

Omer
 
Last edited:
plainSight Solutions said:
As has been stated, the scope is mounted too far back and too high. A PEPR-style mount is not the best fit for a bolt-action magnum, with a shorter eye-relief scope.

Another key point is to ensure that you set the eye relief (i.e. when mounting the scope) at maximum power. This is a common mounting error with variable eye relief scopes - they are mounted on low power, the eye relief is set, and when the shooter dials up the magnification, they are often forced to creep their cheek weld forward, placing them in a sub-optimal position. To avoid this, try setting the eye relief by following these steps:

1 - finger tighten the scope in the rings with just enough tension to allow the scope to be moved,
2 - set the scope to the highest magnification setting,
3 - stand and assume your normal off-hand shooting position,
4 - close your eyes (don't cheat!),
5 - bring up the rifle and assume your shooting position, and most importantly cheek weld, such that it feels comfortable and natural (keep your eyes shut!),
6 - open your shooting eye and see if you have a full sight picture (i.e. no black ring) - do not adjust your cheek weld to correct the sight picture. Stay put!
7 - slide the scope forward or backward until you have a full sight picture,
8 - repeat the process (close your eyes, bring the rifle up, assume your cheek weld, verify sight picture) until you have a full sight picture, at your natural cheek weld.

Note that this is for a hunting, off-hand setup; shooting at max mag off-hand is usually not practical, but if that is how the rifle will be used, then setting the eye relief at that position is a safety consideration. If you will be shooting at max magnification in a prone position, then set the eye relief based on your cheek weld in that position (they can differ greatly).

Another key factor to pay attention to is whether the scope has constant or variable eye relief. Depending on the brand and model, the eye relief will vary considerably:

Nikon Prostaff: 4" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Nikon Monach: 3.6" - constant eye relief
Leupold VX2: 4.2" at low to 3.7" at high - variable eye relief
Leupold VX3: 4.5" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Sightron SIH: 3.9" at low to 3" at high - variable eye relief
Sightron SII: 4.2" at low to 3.6" at high - variable eye relief
Bushnell 3500/4500/6500 - 3.3" to 4" - constant eye relief depending on the model
Swarovski Z3 - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Swarovski Z5 - 3.74" - constant eye relief
Zeiss Terra - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Zeiss HD5 - 3.54" - constant eye relief
Nightforce SHV - 3.15" at low to 3.5 at high - variable eye relief
Nightforce NXS - 3.5" to 3.8" - constant eye relief depending on the model

All of the above brands and many more (except Sightron) are available from us, at the best prices in Canada.

Hopefully that helps.

Omer
Click to expand...
I use only scopes with constant eye relief. I just can't be bothered to put up with the variable eye relief nonsense.
 
blwebster said:
To begin with, when you consider a scope eliminate all those like Swarovski and Zeiss which have too little eye relief in general. Some of the Bushnells are in the same pot too. I know some people figure 3 to 3.5 inches of eye relief is fine for them, but for less experienced shooters or those who have not had the benefit of having been shown proper technique it is an issue and I have seen too many people get kissed hard. I prefer 4 inches of eye relief and yet used to shoot rifles on the job that were not my own that had poor eye relief and this made the kind of shooting were were doing a lot more difficult.

Then look to a decent scope that is known to track well and make sure you know how to mount it for optimal eye relief or have someone fit it for you.

Next, learn shooting technique that will minimize the possibility of getting kissed by your new scope.
Click to expand...

Dogleg said:
Its really easy.

1) Throw away the bushnell. Its the problem.
2) Get rid of that mount. Its an attempt to fix #1; the problem. That's if you cant just turn it around, you might be good there.
3) Buy a Leupold VX3 3.5-10 x 40 with standard Duplex reticle that are on sale all over the place because the VX3i is out now.
4) Get some decent mounts and rings that don't involve windage adjustments.
5) Live long and be happy.
Click to expand...

mount and lop are the problem not the scope.

i used some low eye relief bushnell elites and im 14.5 lop mini and never be beaten by a scope (doesnt mean it will never happen...).
 
I would have to agree that the eye relief is not the issue, but better glass always helps. If your scope has a rear eye focus, mount the scope further forward and turn the relief untill your comfortable.

On the cheap side, you can try sightmark, vectoroptics, and the bushnell elite line, great quality for the price, but make sure your using a 30mm tube.
 
I've used this same scope on a rem 700AAC SD and didn't have this problem ( stretching my neck forward). So maybe the stock is to long. But if I use a shorter stock it seems it may feel awkward. I'm going to try a different scope first. Also for me to use the scope properly as she sits, in the most rearward position, I'd need an inch removed from the stock. If I wanted to move the scope ahead so that the turrets were entered over the action, as some have said, is the correct position. I'd have to remove bout 2 inches of stock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom