10/22 build advice

So the ammo issue is that mostly the cheap stuff won't cycle properly.
A sporter chamber handles everything with aplomb but isn't as accurate.
It seems the chamber accuracy is inherently tied to the barrel so probably hard to tell which is contributing the most to accuracy.

I'm going to do my build in stages and check accuracy along the way.
I'll post my progress along the way to help others who will ask these same questions.
Maybe first, I'll do a stock upgrade and see what happens.

Interesting. Just curious what ammo you're using. I'm working on improving my 10/22 as well, but feel like it's important to select the most reliable 22 ammo before going any further.
 
Interesting. Just curious what ammo you're using. I'm working on improving my 10/22 as well, but feel like it's important to select the most reliable 22 ammo before going any further.

I don't have a souped-up gun yet. Just the basic 10/22. Pretty sure everything works there.
I prefer the CCI Mini-mag and it seems to work in the 10/22 basic rifle. Probably not super accurate.
I'll need to get some various target-shooting rounds to try out.
 
Titan stocks . You can buy a little block with a pin that fits at the back of the receiver. Just screw the pin in and it tightens up everything

I have the *anchor* and while it tightens up everything, it don’t remove the gaps between the stock and action.
 
I tried a bunch and Blazer 22LR has emerged as the champion...

Well if Blaser emerged as YOUR champion , youve never fired any real good ammo. Not saying the present lot of blaser you have doesnt shoot good but your gonna get fliers and whats good to you is not even remotely close to many on here. Consistent (Yes Consistent) groups all in a ragged hole at 50 yds mtrs emerges as the champion. I doubt ur Blaser are doing this. Not saying you cant get groups like this but you cant regularily with this ammo! Shoot 5 ten shot groups at 50 yards and show the target. It will have an average of one inch or better. Yes you can get five shot groups under 1/2" but not five on one target. The Titan has an aluminum block for the hold down bolt but the rear of the receiver needs bedding. The accessory block and bolt is known as the Titan Spike. Want a properly bedded rifle? Contact Jerry at Mistic, He knows more about precise semi rimfires than most, FACTO
 
The main reason I didn't go dlask barrel is because its a sporter chamber and I wanted a match chamber.
FYI if you're getting both the barrel and receiver from dlask... ask them to install before shipping. I had a heck of a time getting my volquartsen barrel into a dlask receiver. I ended up having to ratchet the barrel in using the v-block, not ideal.

I had to warm my tuff-22 receiver up on the oven and barrel in the freezer. Then it was press together.
That was with a dlask bbl.

Getting it apart might be interesting one day.
 
Has anyone compared the dlask, volquartsen, kidd, tactical solutions bull barrels? Any significant performance difference? I have a volquartsen 12.5 carbon but havent tested it out extensively, its satisfactory. Wondering if I should try a longer kidd heavy barrel
 
Has anyone compared the dlask, volquartsen, kidd, tactical solutions bull barrels? Any significant performance difference? I have a volquartsen 12.5 carbon but havent tested it out extensively, its satisfactory. Wondering if I should try a longer kidd heavy barrel

I have a 20” Dlask and a 16.5” TacSol. I don’t notice any difference in performance.
 
Excuse my ignorance but one of the posters mentioned to start with a basic 10/22 . Okay then I’m looking at all the previous and subsequent replies .

#1. What the is left from the original Ruger 10/22 if you started with the original factory Ruger 10/22 ?

#2. Is it just the action that makes it a 10/22
Thanks
Leavenworth
 
Excuse my ignorance but one of the posters mentioned to start with a basic 10/22 . Okay then I’m looking at all the previous and subsequent replies .

#1. What the is left from the original Ruger 10/22 if you started with the original factory Ruger 10/22 ?

#2. Is it just the action that makes it a 10/22
Thanks
Leavenworth

Probably the type of magazine -- unless you change that as well.
In which case, it's mainly the action or how it operates.
 
To my knowledge no semi autos use a true match chamber, they would not feed in a semi auto. The Bentz chamber is an improvement on the loose sporter chamber and is common, but nothing like how tight a Calfree 4 or similar match chamber.

Kidd chamber?? Proprietary
Proof research 22 chamber?? Proprietary
IBI 10/22 chamber?? Bentz or Proprietary not sure?

The IBI barrel I bought for a previous RimX had the calfee chamber.

I mean, I don't know #### about #### about precision 22 shooting, but isn't one of the major downfalls of the 10/22 platform the barrel wedge dealie? Wouldn't starting with something like a Grey Birch Fusion system go a ways to set you up for success if your goal was repeatable accuracy?

I thought this early on as well, so I sold a dlask tuff22 reciever I had paired with a dlask carbon barrel to purchase the fusion system. Well, lets just say, I sold the fusion system as soon as I could. Yes I tried multiple types of ammo, and still could not get things the same as the tuff system I sold to get it.

I ended up going full tilt into a RimX build, chasing this, and yes I did use the best ammo, and set the IBI carbon barrel and receiver for the ammo, and still I was disappointed. Not saying it was not accurate, but I guess I had higher hopes for it than I could get out of it. I probably set too high a hope for the RimX before I even started shooting it, and just could not continue. I ended up selling it all, and changed my pursuits a bit.

You want to chase accuracy on a 10/22, well start with a decent barrel, (which is a combo of the chamber and barrel), then a decent trigger, then stock, followed closely with the bolt and receiver combination. You have to get all these items to just pair up nicely and work closely together, even before you can throw the variable of the guy behind them all pulling the trigger.

Once you have that all figured out, then you can start the process of ammunition. Repeatable 10 shot groups is what your end goal is, and that is a lifetime pursuit with thousands of rounds being shot each year.
 
Excuse my ignorance but one of the posters mentioned to start with a basic 10/22 . Okay then I’m looking at all the previous and subsequent replies .

#1. What the is left from the original Ruger 10/22 if you started with the original factory Ruger 10/22 ?

#2. Is it just the action that makes it a 10/22

It's the particular semiautomatic action design that's a 10/22. Ruger makes a few other bolt-action .22 rifles that take the same magazine but aren't a 10/22, and a few other manufacturers make 10/22 clone actions that are part of that family.

There are a lot of routes toward a custom 10/22. You can start with a whole rifle and replace parts with custom ones, or you can figure out the shopping list and buy a complete set of parts to build a rifle. Or maybe you start the first way but end up with enough of a spare-parts bin that eventually that comes together as a second rifle. All depends what makes sense to you and your budget. Mounting a barrel to a receiver is the only really challenging step.
 
Excuse my ignorance but one of the posters mentioned to start with a basic 10/22 . Okay then I’m looking at all the previous and subsequent replies .

#1. What the is left from the original Ruger 10/22 if you started with the original factory Ruger 10/22 ?

#2. Is it just the action that makes it a 10/22
Thanks
Leavenworth

My current prs rimfire retains all the factory parts in the action/bottom... just changed the barrel, and stock. Bedded properly and it runs great.

I have tuned up the factory trigger which some may not want/be able to do... otherwise, this and the many others we got a couple of years back were surprisingly well made. We have built a few off these factory rifles without needing to change out the factory parts... except barrel and stock.

Jerry
 
Thank You for the replies to my questions !
Leavenworth
Excuse my ignorance but one of the posters mentioned to start with a basic 10/22 . Okay then I’m looking at all the previous and subsequent replies .

#1. What the is left from the original Ruger 10/22 if you started with the original factory Ruger 10/22 ?

#2. Is it just the action that makes it a 10/22
Thanks
Leavenworth
 
My current 10/22 was purchased new in hmmmm … 1989 .Wood stocked with the recoil pad . You know I have not looked at in while and it’s at the back of the safe . I need a bigger safe !
Leavenworth
My current prs rimfire retains all the factory parts in the action/bottom... just changed the barrel, and stock. Bedded properly and it runs great.

I have tuned up the factory trigger which some may not want/be able to do... otherwise, this and the many others we got a couple of years back were surprisingly well made. We have built a few off these factory rifles without needing to change out the factory parts... except barrel and stock.

Jerry
 
My current 10/22 was purchased new in hmmmm … 1989 .Wood stocked with the recoil pad . You know I have not looked at in while and it’s at the back of the safe . I need a bigger safe !
Leavenworth

The key to any 10/22 is does it run 100% in its current form? Some don't... so these you need to replace parts or just not use. If you feel confident that you can machine gun HV bulk ammo from all your mags, then the action/bolt and trigger are working as intended. Now we add what is needed for accuracy and then bed into a stock so it will actually be accurate.

simple test. I use CCI blaser cause it is easy to get but better Fed HV works too. grab all your 10rds mags... empty them as fast as you can pull the trigger. If it misfeeds, ensures it is just a mag problem... if it does that with all mags (especially factory mags), move to another action. that is all you need from the action and bottom unit.

Trigger pull weight... aftermarket can resolve or you can tune up the factory parts. It will never be a super light trigger but some kits suggest they can get quite light. I am just concerned that it is around 2lbs and breaks crisply/repeatably.

Keep things simple

20220824_081304.jpg

Distance was actually 100m... not bad at all

Jerry
 

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