SRV2 Siberian Reviews

barsik said:
bcl should have designed the gas block to mount the same way as the handguard. one crosspin indexed to a groove in the bottom of the barrel and it would also insure a tight seal on the gas port. easy peasy. to upgrade it now would mean a trip to the machine shop to cut a groove in the barrel along with a new block.
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I agree. Cheap solution and I think that BCL expects everybody to be able to sort it out with loctite and some mechanical skills - which I know many do not have. Hence my remark that I expect more gas blocks to go bust.
 
Man I love how this gun looks but I have zero mechanical skills and I don't need it breaking down on me.

I also don't want to pay for the Bren or get a WK which is also riddled with issues.

Is Tavor and SL8 basically the only dummy proof reliable 5.56 guns I can get?
 
CdnLibertarian said:
Man I love how this gun looks but I have zero mechanical skills and I don't need it breaking down on me.

I also don't want to pay for the Bren or get a WK which is also riddled with issues.

Is Tavor and SL8 basically the only dummy proof reliable 5.56 guns I can get?
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No, there is the Crusader Arms Templar, which I owned and which was reliable for the 360 or so rounds that I and my friends put through it. By all accounts, the Templar is sufficiently over-built that it is the reliable and durable AR-180 clone of the bunch. Priced around $2250 for the version with the TriggerTech Trigger (totally recommended), the Templar comes in considerably cheaper than the Tavor X95 at $2800 and even the SL8 at $2400 new. Something else to consider - I was happy with everything about mine except for the weight, which is more suited to a .308 than a .223 (although recoil was next to nil).


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CdnLibertarian said:
Man I love how this gun looks but I have zero mechanical skills and I don't need it breaking down on me.

I also don't want to pay for the Bren or get a WK which is also riddled with issues.

Is Tavor and SL8 basically the only dummy proof reliable 5.56 guns I can get?
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There is no mechanical skills required.
It’s not that difficult to use a screw driver.
 
Bartok5 said:
No, there is the Crusader Arms Templar, which I owned and which was reliable for the 360 or so rounds that I and my friends put through it. By all accounts, the Templar is sufficiently over-built that it is the reliable and durable AR-180 clone of the bunch. Priced around $2250 for the version with the TriggerTech Trigger (totally recommended), the Templar comes in considerably cheaper than the Tavor X95 at $2800 and even the SL8 at $2400 new. Something else to consider - I was happy with everything about mine except for the weight, which is more suited to a .308 than a .223 (although recoil was next to nil).


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Thank you, definitely one to consider. I thought they were well over 3k for some reason.
 
CdnLibertarian said:
Man I love how this gun looks but I have zero mechanical skills and I don't need it breaking down on me.

I also don't want to pay for the Bren or get a WK which is also riddled with issues.

Is Tavor and SL8 basically the only dummy proof reliable 5.56 guns I can get?
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Bartok5 said:
No, there is the Crusader Arms Templar, which I owned and which was reliable for the 360 or so rounds that I and my friends put through it. By all accounts, the Templar is sufficiently over-built that it is the reliable and durable AR-180 clone of the bunch. Priced around $2250 for the version with the TriggerTech Trigger (totally recommended), the Templar comes in considerably cheaper than the Tavor X95 at $2800 and even the SL8 at $2400 new. Something else to consider - I was happy with everything about mine except for the weight, which is more suited to a .308 than a .223 (although recoil was next to nil).


20230404-221525.jpg
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Although the overbuilt nature of the Templar provides for resilience, there have been a few issues noted, most readily adjustable, as documented by Redditor MacPapRonin in his Crusader Arms Templar & Crusader 9 Maintenance Tips and Fixes post on Reddit, https://www.reddit.com/r/canadaguns/comments/10yxu41/crusader_arms_templar_crusader_9_maintenance_tips/. One of the most critical yet easy to address issues, originally reported on CGN, is down the page a ways, so I will quote it here:

MacPapRonin said:
ISSUE/RECOMMENDED PREVENTATIVE MAINTENTANCE: Point of impact drift on Crusader Templar - inconsistent point of impact when attempting to zero or otherwise be accurate while shooting. Point of impact would drift randomly from side to side by as much as 5" when shooting. Please note that I have not personally encountered this issue, it was reported by a user on CGN here: https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...pectre-LTD?p=19460016&viewfull=1#post19460016

WHEN ENCOUNTERED: 1500 rounds

FIX/SOLUTION: Remove eight screws on upper, four on each side which lock barrel in place, just above the forward takedown pin, behind the handguard. Apply Loctite to all screws, screw in carefully and sequentially as you might a replacement tire, so that equal pressure is being applied by all screws. Witness mark all screw holes and monitor for screws coming out.

TIME/MATERIALS: 10-15 minutes of work with hex wrench, Loctite

CURRENT STATUS: User reports rifle is working correctly now, no reports on how many rounds fired since fix applied.
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Question, if the barrel is not loose, would it make sense to unscrew a single screw, Loctite it, and screw in and witness, and then repeat with each in turn to keep the barrel zero if the screws have yet to loosen and the barrel is still solidly in place?
 
I took a look at a Siberian a couple of weeks ago in Nanaimo; liked the weight and balance but it didn't appear that the aluminum was anodized under the ceracoat.
If it is anything like the bison, some of you new Siberian owners may want to buckle up for the ride.

Has anyone pulled apart a Crusader? How is the barrel mounted and retained?
 
beltfed said:
I took a look at a Siberian a couple of weeks ago in Nanaimo; liked the weight and balance but it didn't appear that the aluminum was anodized under the ceracoat.
If it is anything like the bison, some of you new Siberian owners may want to buckle up for the ride.

Has anyone pulled apart a Crusader? How is the barrel mounted and retained?
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The Siberian is advertised as having an anodized receiver set. Or are you referring to the handguard?

The SRV2 Siberian is a semi-automatic utility rifle from Black Creek’s SRV2 series. This rifle was designed to be an ergonomic, modular and reliable multi-use rifle for the ranch, range or backcountry. The action uses a forward captured dual spring system with a two piece short-stroke piston system. The Siberian can be used for extended field carry, so emphasis was put into reducing weight and ensuring the stock could be folded, making it substantially shorter than buffer-tube based semi-auto rifles. The result is a sleek, compact firearm that feels good both in the shoulder and when slung.
User controls are similar to the AR15 including an ambidextrous bolt release and safety lever. The Siberian charges from the left side with a non-recipricating charging handle and feeds from AR15 magazines. Stocks can be mounted directly to a universal 1913 rear pic rail or to an adapter, giving the rifle unlimited stock options.
ACTION
SEMI-AUTO SHORT STROKE PISTON

CALIBER
223 Rem

BARREL LENGTH
18.5”

TWIST RATE
1/8

RECEIVER SET
ANODIZED ALUMINUM

ACCURACY
1.2 MOA

STOCK
MAGPUL ZHUKOV. ALSO COMPATIBLE WITH 1913 PIC SYSTEM

MAGAZINE
AR15

WEIGHT
7 LBS
 
pilon said:
The Siberian is advertised as having an anodized receiver set. Or are you referring to the handguard?
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Nope, the knick was out of the upper receiver.

Maybe whatever contact was made went through both the Ceracoat and the anodizing?
This was at "Gone Fishin'"
 
Siberian seems to be consistent with what BCL claims. A fb user on the group had it out last weekend and shot 3 and 5 round groups with the cheap PMC 55gr. I also asked him about his experience. 3 shot groups are MOA, 5 shot groups around 1.5 but with standard trigger and Vortex 1-8 LPVO. I say pretty impressive.
 
DaveMachine said:
So it's probably 2moa or greater.
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Who knows. Even 2 or 2.5 inch groups with PMC ammo is good. Join the fb group and call him a liar. Edit: I checked his groups again, one 5 shot group was just under 2. The 3 shot groups are all around MOA. Check yourself. Scope is Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8 LPVO.

"First day trying groups at 100M. I have only shot it indoors until today. It was a beautiful day here in Cape Breton. Was using cheap ammo, PMC Bronze .223 55 grain. I was happy with my results. 550 rounds total so far."

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scianna54 said:
Who knows. Even 2 or 2.5 inch groups with PMC ammo is good. Join the fb group and call him a liar. Edit: I checked his groups again, one 5 shot group was just under 2. The 3 shot groups are all around MOA. Check yourself. Scope is Vortex Strike Eagle 1-8 LPVO.
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If the shooter's point of aim is the same for all of those groups, and there were no adjustments made within the scope to change POI, it looks like it is printing all of that ammo into around 4-5" for 19 rounds.
I'd say that is pretty average for bang average .223/5.56 and autoloaders with 'rack-grade' barrels.

printing all of it into 2" would be very good indeed.
 
totally agree. and if he was shooting at the centre of the target every time for all 19 rounds then it is at best a 12" group. not good at all.

man, the new math that they're teaching the kids these days ...
 
Jukes14 said:
A friend and I pulled the trigger… walked into the gun store and took home two Siberians. I have been loving mine. The slop between the upper and lower was easily resolved with the electrical tape trick as shown in Southern Alberta Outdoors YouTube video.

Went with a Magpul grip, feels much nicer in the hand then the stock one that comes with the gun. Since I'm a Lefty, waiting for the Ambi-Mag release to come in. As well as the extender trigger guard.

My friend and I both have been quite impressed with the rifles. They seem to fit both of us just perfectly. They feel very light. But solid. Once I did the electrical tape trick, I have absolutely ZERO play or slop, it feels like and entirely different gun just from doing that.

I ran .223 and he ran 5.56. They didn't seem to like loading .223 out of the Magpul mags. But the 5.56 ammo didn't seem to have those issues. Will dive a little further into this and see what we come up with.

I also do 3D printing. I have printed out some hexagon Mlok Covers and a low profile handstops. Really loving them on the gun.View attachment 670740View attachment 670741
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Curious which mag release you ordered. I'm a lefty too and would definitely put an ambi-mag release on to improve this.
 
scianna54 said:
We officially started the entertainment section of this thread.
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lol.
Yeah, I would doubt the shooter is sighting on the center of the target in the middle of the page of 5 targets for all shots, but it is reasonable to assume that they are centering on the middle of each target for each group. Superimposed upon one another, the group looks to be 4-5".

The bottom line is there is no getting away from reality and there is no free lunch with these types of rifles.
 
beltfed said:
lol.
Yeah, I would doubt the shooter is sighting on the center of the target in the middle of the page of 5 targets for all shots, but it is reasonable to assume that they are centering on the middle of each target for each group. Superimposed upon one another, the group looks to be 4-5".

The bottom line is there is no getting away from reality and there is no free lunch with these types of rifles.
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I saw your groups in the other thread where you only used blank targets. Why is that?

Also found this:

https://bisonballistics.com/articles/optimal-group-size-for-rifles

http://ballistipedia.com/index.php?title=Range_Statistics

So 5 or 6 shot groups are widely accepted. I agree that 3 shot groups cannot be used, I have my doubts about 10 shot groups but then we have to compare all the same with the same ammunition.
 
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