There is a Canadian made m14 scope mount out there, it is called m14/m1a CASM (just google it up) it is made in Victoria, BC. After trying couple different m14 mounts,I personally give up on the side hole mount ones. ( AIM brand is the worst, so save ur money). I recently purchased the m14 CASM mount and it is as solid as u can get, only draw back is, it replaces ur rear sight, but for a solid troublefree scope mount, it is a small price to pay.
So how many screws does it need to lock in the rear?
Why did they change the name to the Granad CASM mount?
Why is there mini rear sight mount now called M14 CASM mount?
As for that BS statement that you just provided then please inform us how the D.O.D. offered NSN number to 3 major design's for this rifle that all use the side optic mount whole? They are A.R.M.S., Sadlak & oh ya that realy terriable company that knows nothing about M14's...
What waz there name???
Oh Ya!
SMITH ENTERPRISE.
Further more to dispell that farce that you just spewed. Just want to ask you why is that whole was ever even placed there on the side of the reciever for?
Plus now if you are comparing high quaility mounts such as AIM to that CASM mount well you might be right. Considering that it is China made low end quaility compared to Canadian craftsmenship. But that is about as far as that farce should go.
Good job on Frank from M14 dot ca for making that shorty red dot rear sight mount. A great idea and perfect for people that compete in the "heavy metal" devision of 3 gun like me. With a little bit of info he could modify that design to remove a couple of screws but as far as that long rail on the M14 platform Pro Mag from Mystic Precision is what I would recomend for some one in that price range.
Now not to be so negivtave to Frank. Since I know he is reading this & since I think he is on the right course. I am going to offer you some free advise to make this mount a great mount & all he needs is to do 3 more things.
Frank this info is for you and free of charge.
1) Make it out of 4140 steel. (I know it cost's more & is harder to work with but it will make this mount.)
2) Add a stripper clip guide that the rail locks down to via screw or something like that. (This will cut down on the whip caused by the in & out battery slaming)
3) If you do not want to use the side lock down bar, going down to the side mounting whole. Then use the rear pocket of the rear sight to the full potentail. *
hint,hint*
Now if you follow these steps Frank the 2 ear screws and the front stripper clip screw is all that you would need. Plus then your front of the rail would need a pad like the ARMS mount to ensure that the rail is level, level, level.
Now please excuse me as my beer is getting warm.
