The barrel isn't centered in the fore-end?
It's here: NEA-15 unboxing photos
- Thread starter t0rch
- Start date
The barrel isn't centered in the fore-end?
Wrong Way
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
That's how I read it.....fore-end angled to the left.
Could be bent or twisted I suppose.
Run a straight edge down the side of the upper and fore-end to see if those two pieces are straight and true.
If they're good, run a string from the rear of the upper, over the fore-end to the muzzle. If the string stays centered, you're all lined up. If not......
Probably best to contact NEA right away, too.
- Location
- Pile of Bones, SK
Sweetness.
- Location
- Fort St John B.C.
The lower looks sweet, but the free float handguard to me looks wierd with the clamping system.
LaRue has a couple great fixes for that.
Okay, so here's the range report.
The girlfriend and I took the rifle out to the Abbotsford Fish & Game range for a trial run yesterday. Unbeknownst to me, BC Corrections is running a training program there for a couple weeks so we couldn't use the long range - we had to move over to the 65m range. So we did most of the testing at 50m.
Now I'm by no means a crack shot or any kind of AR expert, so take this with a grain of salt, but I've managed to be more accurate with this rifle than with anything I've shot before.
We used targets with 1/2" grid marks, and Federal American Eagle XM223 55gr FMJ from the big green 1000 round ammo can. Once we got the sights roughed in, my best group was about 1", with most averaging 1.25 - 1.5". Hers ranged from 1.5 - 2", having never shot before. I figure that works out to about 2-3 MOA from inexperienced shooters using irons.
Here are some of our better targets. I am the black circles; she is the black triangles. All the red marked holes out away from the center are from the attempted sighting-in.
A couple things about the rifle: firstly I had about five feeding failures within the first 20 or so rounds, (as well as the last-shot-hold-open wasn't working) which I was pretty upset about until I realized that in my initial cleaning and re-oiling I hadn't oiled the BCG in the right place on the rails and the bolt was short-stroking and missing the back of the cartridge casing (First AR). Once I gave her some more oil it performed without a hiccup for the remainder of 100 rounds.
Rounds mangled:
Secondly it took a while to set up the irons because the handguard rail didn't seem to have been tightened fully, and the recoil vs. the wooden benchrest made it twist slightly to the right side. A quick trip to the car toolkit and it was tightened back perfectly in line with the rails on the upper, and didn't move again after. Maybe in the haste of trying to get these things out the door somebody missed tightening this one.
All in all for what I paid I'm extremely satisfied.
PS: as for some of the points/questions raised above - the rifle seems to show up as being more 'grey' in the pictures than in real life, perhaps because of the flash? I'm looking at it right now and the lower anodizing looks nearly identical to the trigger hammer inside it, or the plastic buttstock in colour. It is definitely NOT as grey as it looks in the pictures. Also the railed hand guard looks the same colour as the rest, although the finish is a bit... rougher? I.e. more like a very very fine sandpaper vs the smoothness of the rest. Maybe that resulted in a lighter look under the camera's flash?
And of course I'd prefer the tightening system to look like Troy's, but the Troy ones seem to start at a third the cost of this whole rifle... so I'm perfectly fine with this if that's what it takes to make it affordable. I don't know about any of you but a $3000 AR is a little out of my range for something that's effectively just a range gun.
The girlfriend and I took the rifle out to the Abbotsford Fish & Game range for a trial run yesterday. Unbeknownst to me, BC Corrections is running a training program there for a couple weeks so we couldn't use the long range - we had to move over to the 65m range. So we did most of the testing at 50m.
Now I'm by no means a crack shot or any kind of AR expert, so take this with a grain of salt, but I've managed to be more accurate with this rifle than with anything I've shot before.
We used targets with 1/2" grid marks, and Federal American Eagle XM223 55gr FMJ from the big green 1000 round ammo can. Once we got the sights roughed in, my best group was about 1", with most averaging 1.25 - 1.5". Hers ranged from 1.5 - 2", having never shot before. I figure that works out to about 2-3 MOA from inexperienced shooters using irons.
Here are some of our better targets. I am the black circles; she is the black triangles. All the red marked holes out away from the center are from the attempted sighting-in.
A couple things about the rifle: firstly I had about five feeding failures within the first 20 or so rounds, (as well as the last-shot-hold-open wasn't working) which I was pretty upset about until I realized that in my initial cleaning and re-oiling I hadn't oiled the BCG in the right place on the rails and the bolt was short-stroking and missing the back of the cartridge casing (First AR). Once I gave her some more oil it performed without a hiccup for the remainder of 100 rounds.
Rounds mangled:
Secondly it took a while to set up the irons because the handguard rail didn't seem to have been tightened fully, and the recoil vs. the wooden benchrest made it twist slightly to the right side. A quick trip to the car toolkit and it was tightened back perfectly in line with the rails on the upper, and didn't move again after. Maybe in the haste of trying to get these things out the door somebody missed tightening this one.
All in all for what I paid I'm extremely satisfied.
PS: as for some of the points/questions raised above - the rifle seems to show up as being more 'grey' in the pictures than in real life, perhaps because of the flash? I'm looking at it right now and the lower anodizing looks nearly identical to the trigger hammer inside it, or the plastic buttstock in colour. It is definitely NOT as grey as it looks in the pictures. Also the railed hand guard looks the same colour as the rest, although the finish is a bit... rougher? I.e. more like a very very fine sandpaper vs the smoothness of the rest. Maybe that resulted in a lighter look under the camera's flash?
And of course I'd prefer the tightening system to look like Troy's, but the Troy ones seem to start at a third the cost of this whole rifle... so I'm perfectly fine with this if that's what it takes to make it affordable. I don't know about any of you but a $3000 AR is a little out of my range for something that's effectively just a range gun.
- Location
- Airdrie AB
I had the same fore-end not on straight issue with mine when it arrived. I slackened off the clamps and reseated it against the receiver before tightening the screws. I took care to tighten each screw equal amounts at a time side to side and started with the foremost screws first before clamping down the two nearest the receiver. Rail is on straight now.
Having done all this there is a step down from the upper receiver to the fore-end rail of I'm guessing approximately .015" (I haven't got a depth gauge handy or I'd measure it). It seems that this is due to the clamping method. before tightening everything down the fore-end rail was just proud of the upper by a hair.
My Pistol grip was also not on tight allowing it to swing fore and aft. The threads cut into the lower hadn't been cleaned out properly which prevented the bolt holding the grip on from going fully home. It was pretty obvious the moment I picked up the rifle for the first time. After removing the bolt and removing the swarf front the threads its on tight although the tolerance is very close (you would have trouble spinning the bolt in with you fingers for sure).
Now I haven't shot it yet but aside from these two issues I do like this rifle, it's my first AR so I wasn't sure what to expect but overall I feel the quality/price is there. A little better QA on assembly would help out for sure.
I have been contemplating a scope for this gun and a cantilever mount off the upper is the only way to go if accuracy is what you're after (and who isn't?). That way you're directly attached to the barrel via the upper instead of the "floating" hand rail. At least that's what would make most sense to me as a newb...
Having done all this there is a step down from the upper receiver to the fore-end rail of I'm guessing approximately .015" (I haven't got a depth gauge handy or I'd measure it). It seems that this is due to the clamping method. before tightening everything down the fore-end rail was just proud of the upper by a hair.
My Pistol grip was also not on tight allowing it to swing fore and aft. The threads cut into the lower hadn't been cleaned out properly which prevented the bolt holding the grip on from going fully home. It was pretty obvious the moment I picked up the rifle for the first time. After removing the bolt and removing the swarf front the threads its on tight although the tolerance is very close (you would have trouble spinning the bolt in with you fingers for sure).
Now I haven't shot it yet but aside from these two issues I do like this rifle, it's my first AR so I wasn't sure what to expect but overall I feel the quality/price is there. A little better QA on assembly would help out for sure.
I have been contemplating a scope for this gun and a cantilever mount off the upper is the only way to go if accuracy is what you're after (and who isn't?). That way you're directly attached to the barrel via the upper instead of the "floating" hand rail. At least that's what would make most sense to me as a newb...
There is more oil on the one part than the other. When dry they are the same colour. They are actually alot darker than the pictures...maybe the flash.
Edit: OP just posted above me, seems I should have read the whole thread
Can't say I'd trust the clamping method on the rail. It just looks to me as if the screws could strip out under fire and all the thing would come loose. But over all it looks pretty good and at that price point it's quite interesting.
ADM as well I think. Easier to find in Canada too.
ADM as well I think. Easier to find in Canada too.
cptseawolf
CGN Regular
- Location
- Saskatchewan
Runningfool
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- SW Ontario
What makes you think it isn't?
likely the ones that look cockeyed were installed less patiently. It's completely possible to torque something to specification and still have it be crooked. If you need proof just look at your average General Motors product. The fix for this particular problem (like I read in another post) is to loosen the fasteners and then slowly tighten all the fasteners evenly until proper torque is reached.
. The fix for this particular problem (like I read in another post) is to loosen the fasteners and then slowly tighten all the fasteners evenly until proper torque is reached.
