Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

The two with checkered fore ends are a model 4000 for the Monte-Carlo stocked one and 4100 for the one with straight comb and cheeck piece only. There should be evidence of front sight removal on the 4000, unless it was reblued.
So, you have two 4000 series imported in the '50-'60s, the 1600 Std and the three 1640are from recent imports. Your three 1640, from what I can see, all seems to be of the Standard model.
Nice familly picture.

Yes, the one with the monte carlo stock shows evidence of the front sight removal.

The 270 with the longer barrel [the one without the sight hood] was my uncle's back in the 1950's and 60's here in Alberta. I'm not sure how he got it back then, but from what I was told he bought it brand new in 1952 [I know this doesn't make much sense, since the 1640 action hit the market in 1953]. He had a good friend who was from Sweden, so that probably had something to do with it. The story of how I got the rifle is in post #374 in this thread.
 
Hi Baribal,
I was just wondering if you could tell me if you know anywhere that I can find info on Carl Gustaf Rifles. I own a few Gustaf's and Husky's and was hoping to find some info to read on them. If you can help me out that would be great. Thanks, PH.
 
The 1640 were introduced in 1953, but it did not hit the US / Canadian market prior to late 1954 early 1955 (they came by boat and in those days, the St-Lawrence was not opened to navigation before march / april). The importer was Dorken Bros, in Montreal (they were the only Canadian Importer at the beginiing, before they shutdown their operations). There are no records availlable from that time. Your rifle is for sure an interesting one, my guess being that it was made in 1953, and there is a thin possibility that it was made in very late 1952, but again, there is no document availlable to back it up for now. In 1954 the HVA offering in America was still the 1000/1100 based on the FN actions.

Prairiehunter,

There is very little published about the CG 1900 and 2000 (if that's what you're looking for). The only infos availlable are the old catalogs (this also applies to HVA) and you may find some reviews in older gun publications of the right time period. For HVA, there is a book, called Husqvarna Jaktvapen 1870-1977 which is written in Swedish. there is a partial english transcription on the Internet, at Skydevaaben.com.
Regarding pre 1900 CG (i.e. the so called "Employee Rifles"), the model designation we know came from old Swedish sporting goods supplier catalogs.
Anyhow, if you post your questions here, you should get answers.
 
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Hi,

What kind of accuracy do you guys get with your stock Husqvarna's? I'm wondering if my FN 640 will out shoot a factory pre-64 Win 70 and Rem 700.
 
Hi,

What kind of accuracy do you guys get with your stock Husqvarna's? I'm wondering if my FN 640 will out shoot a factory pre-64 Win 70 and Rem 700.


I always tinker with the trigger to get rid of the creep, and reduce the pull weight. So mine, I guess, aren't "stock".

But, with handloads, I can usually get to 1" 3 shot group at 100 yards off the bench. Considering these are older hunting rifles, not target rifles, I'm happy if I can get under 1.5". Back in the 50's and 60's , 1.5 MOA was considered very very accurate. I've always been able to get at least 1.2", though, without too much effort. And once I'm at the MOA mark, I'm done load development. 1 MOA in a hunting rifle is very accurate no matter what decade you're in.

All of mine are the 1600 or 1640, not the FN 640, so maybe those are different, but I'd expect if your barrel has still got good sharp rifling, you should be able to get to AT LEAST 1.5 MOA with handloads. My Brazilian Mauser sporter gets 1.25 MOA, and that was a military action.
 
I always tinker with the trigger to get rid of the creep, and reduce the pull weight. So mine, I guess, aren't "stock".

But, with handloads, I can usually get to 1" 3 shot group at 100 yards off the bench. Considering these are older hunting rifles, not target rifles, I'm happy if I can get under 1.5". Back in the 50's and 60's , 1.5 MOA was considered very very accurate. I've always been able to get at least 1.2", though, without too much effort. And once I'm at the MOA mark, I'm done load development. 1 MOA in a hunting rifle is very accurate no matter what decade you're in.

All of mine are the 1600 or 1640, not the FN 640, so maybe those are different, but I'd expect if your barrel has still got good sharp rifling, you should be able to get to AT LEAST 1.5 MOA with handloads. My Brazilian Mauser sporter gets 1.25 MOA, and that was a military action.

My experience with the three Husqvarnas I have, two of which were acquired fairly recently, is much the same.

30-06TTSX.jpg


358NMFactory.jpg


The triggers of the top one, a model 3000 in 270 and the 1651 on the bottem in 358NM are decent for hunting. The 30-06 model 4000 in the centre has considerable 'room' for improvement but I'll leave that task to a pro. Keeping the '06 trigger pull in mind when shooting, respectable groups are possible.

TheHusqvarnaTriplets.jpg
 
The HVA barrels, like most European rifles of this period, are inletted (imbedded) into the stocks, they are not free floated. Free floating was first used as a short-cut to reduce manufacturing price, like the "separated" recoil lugs, or the "push-feed" bolts.
Now, almost only expensive arms are well inletted (to make a very good job, it have to be hand fitted) at the barrel level, and free floating is now seen as a "plus" by most of us, hurry men who likes easy life. For that reason (imbedding), their barrels are more heat sensitive and to get constant grouping, you need to leave the barrel to cool down to a certain point between each shot, to allow metal (barrel) expansion not to interfere with grouping. Usually, the fisrt two shot, even under rapid fire, will easily group well under an inch. The third shot will sometimes fly - and from my experience, often, it will hit low - a bit out of the group.
But usually, it's not too hard to keep all that going into 1" - 1' 1/2" at worst.
 
Bought One!! Need date of manufacter??

Can you tell me the date for my Husky Crown Grade 3000 30.06 Vapenfabrinks serial number is 170980? It has the HVA improved action with a control feed. I also noticed a Nitro stamp on the barrel. Both the forestock, and the pistol grip have black onyx on them.
 
The HVA barrels, like most European rifles of this period, are inletted (imbedded) into the stocks, they are not free floated. Free floating was first used as a short-cut to reduce manufacturing price, like the "separated" recoil lugs, or the "push-feed" bolts.
Now, almost only expensive arms are well inletted (to make a very good job, it have to be hand fitted) at the barrel level, and free floating is now seen as a "plus" by most of us, hurry men who likes easy life. For that reason (imbedding), their barrels are more heat sensitive and to get constant grouping, you need to leave the barrel to cool down to a certain point between each shot, to allow metal (barrel) expansion not to interfere with grouping. Usually, the fisrt two shot, even under rapid fire, will easily group well under an inch. The third shot will sometimes fly - and from my experience, often, it will hit low - a bit out of the group.
But usually, it's not too hard to keep all that going into 1" - 1' 1/2" at worst.

So my 640 wears a beech stock, is it properly imbedded at Husqvarna? Also, how does the H vs C type Mauser affect accuracy? How do you tell by just looking at the rifle? And the Rem 700 uses a cylindrical receiver that they say will come back to rest in a more consistent manner in the stock than a block-style receiver. Is this true? They also advertise ''3 rings'' of steel, what rings are these and how is that better than my FN mauser?
 
Can you tell me the date for my Husky Crown Grade 3000 30.06 Vapenfabrinks serial number is 170980? It has the HVA improved action with a control feed. I also noticed a Nitro stamp on the barrel. Both the forestock, and the pistol grip have black onyx on them.

Serial number dating info can be found here, looks like your rifle was manufactured in 1954.
 
SAM_1504.jpg
[/IMG]

My collection of Husqvarna 1600's
from the left
1-H-5000, 7mm mag
2-H-5000, 7mm mag
3-H-5000, 270win
4-H-5000, 308win
5-H-5000, 243win
6-H-5000, 30-06
7-H-5000, 308win
8-H-5000, 308win
9-Imp. Lightweight, 30-06
10-?? 8x57
11-?? 6.5x55
12-?? 7mm mag
 
Mosinmaster;
First, what are you looking for exactly? a precision rifle or a hunting rifle? What you're doing here is comparing a robotized CNC machined product against a hammer forged steel hand machined on jigs and fixtures conventional machines.. sort of comparing a Vintage car against a 2012..

Remington is a big company which success depends on MARKETING. The "3 rings of steel" thing is just another selling argument. Remington 700 is a shortcut (improved) version derived of the M-17, which is itself a copy and amalgam of different Mauser designs. I see nothing very special in the Remington design, except that it makes things easier (and cheaper) to machine and there are a lot of aftermarket gadgets made for them (for the same reasons). I don't think they've done any better regarding accuracy / precision than any other major manufacturers - i.e. you can compare their products with almost anything else on the market. The "3 rings of steel" is just like most push feed are; the case base in enclosed in the bolt face ("ring 1"), the chamber is fully part of the barrel ("ring 2"), and the barrel it self is screwed into the receiver ("ring 3"). So, nothing extraordinary in that. I don't say Remingtons are not good rifles, but there are equally and even better actions out there on the market.
Same goes for the "cylindrical" action thing; they found a marketing reason to defend their use of round bar stock steel, which allows less manufacturing operations and eases the stock inletting.... then add to it the free floated barrel and you have a fairly simple to produce rifle.

The "C" and "H" ring thing have nothing to do either with accuracy. Some writers reported "problems" when "H" type actions have the feeding ramp thinned, but in fact the "C" and "H" have both passed hands up any SAAMI or CIP testings. And most "H" type actions are made of alloyed steel, while most "C" type are made of low carbon steel.
In the '60s and '70s, FN offering included target actions and they were as good as any others. I have target rifles based on Mauser actions and I can outshoot a lot of modern rifles and equal a bunch of the "best" with them. Then, unless you rechamber your "H" ring action to a very long cartridge which will be loaded to space age pressures, I can't see any reasons why a M/98 won't stand any normal round against any "modern" rifle.

As for the stock fitting of your specific rifle, I can't say. I guess that when the rifle was new, it went through quality control and passed. Then, it will depend on storage conditions, the woodpiece itself (the grain structure) and the care it got over the years, the action screws tightening and on, and on... You can add if the bedding have moved for any reasons (water / humidity, dryness, loose screws and on and on). Barrel condition is also another point. Barrels are manufactured products and any manufacturer is subject to produce a lemon one day or the other. Then, you have those rifles which shoots anything you feed them with and the same exact twin, which is more than "fussy" with everything. Who knows what you have unless it was first tried? If you're indoubt, just re-bed the action and go from there.

Hope this may help, but your questions are so wide it's almost impossible to give you a precise answer.
 
Shagsnwags,
The orginal 3000/3100 pistol grip caps have a white spacers and are made of bakelite. Same for the buttplate and early nose caps. The later rifles (square rosewood nose cap) don't have a pistol grip cap. The difference between both models is the stock. 3000 is a MC stock while 3100 have straight comb stock. Depending on when it was imported, it may also be a 1640 MC.


Nice collection of H-5000, tjsudbury.
Your "Imperial" must should have the word "Imperial" stamped on the barrel. If not, then, it's a 4000. There is a lot of confusion about the "Imperial".
The three on the right seems to be 1640s variants. They look to be 1640 Std. The last one seems to have checkering on the fore end, not sure from your picture. If so, it originally was a 4100.
With left side close ups of the actions and and fore end area (where there is or not) checkering, it should be possible to positively indentify the specific models.
 
Thanks Baribal! Your explanation was really thorough and explained a lot of questions that I had. I suppose is the beech stock doesn't work out, I could always put it in a laminate or synthetic stock? Are there lots of aftermarket M98 stocks in Canada?

Mosinmaster;
First, what are you looking for exactly? a precision rifle or a hunting rifle? What you're doing here is comparing a robotized CNC machined product against a hammer forged steel hand machined on jigs and fixtures conventional machines.. sort of comparing a Vintage car against a 2012..

Remington is a big company which success depends on MARKETING. The "3 rings of steel" thing is just another selling argument. Remington 700 is a shortcut (improved) version derived of the M-17, which is itself a copy and amalgam of different Mauser designs. I see nothing very special in the Remington design, except that it makes things easier (and cheaper) to machine and there are a lot of aftermarket gadgets made for them (for the same reasons). I don't think they've done any better regarding accuracy / precision than any other major manufacturers - i.e. you can compare their products with almost anything else on the market. The "3 rings of steel" is just like most push feed are; the case base in enclosed in the bolt face ("ring 1"), the chamber is fully part of the barrel ("ring 2"), and the barrel it self is screwed into the receiver ("ring 3"). So, nothing extraordinary in that. I don't say Remingtons are not good rifles, but there are equally and even better actions out there on the market.
Same goes for the "cylindrical" action thing; they found a marketing reason to defend their use of round bar stock steel, which allows less manufacturing operations and eases the stock inletting.... then add to it the free floated barrel and you have a fairly simple to produce rifle.

The "C" and "H" ring thing have nothing to do either with accuracy. Some writers reported "problems" when "H" type actions have the feeding ramp thinned, but in fact the "C" and "H" have both passed hands up any SAAMI or CIP testings. And most "H" type actions are made of alloyed steel, while most "C" type are made of low carbon steel.
In the '60s and '70s, FN offering included target actions and they were as good as any others. I have target rifles based on Mauser actions and I can outshoot a lot of modern rifles and equal a bunch of the "best" with them. Then, unless you rechamber your "H" ring action to a very long cartridge which will be loaded to space age pressures, I can't see any reasons why a M/98 won't stand any normal round against any "modern" rifle.

As for the stock fitting of your specific rifle, I can't say. I guess that when the rifle was new, it went through quality control and passed. Then, it will depend on storage conditions, the woodpiece itself (the grain structure) and the care it got over the years, the action screws tightening and on, and on... You can add if the bedding have moved for any reasons (water / humidity, dryness, loose screws and on and on). Barrel condition is also another point. Barrels are manufactured products and any manufacturer is subject to produce a lemon one day or the other. Then, you have those rifles which shoots anything you feed them with and the same exact twin, which is more than "fussy" with everything. Who knows what you have unless it was first tried? If you're indoubt, just re-bed the action and go from there.

Hope this may help, but your questions are so wide it's almost impossible to give you a precise answer.
 
Shagsnwags,
The orginal 3000/3100 pistol grip caps have a white spacers and are made of bakelite. Same for the buttplate and early nose caps. The later rifles (square rosewood nose cap) don't have a pistol grip cap. The difference between both models is the stock. 3000 is a MC stock while 3100 have straight comb stock. Depending on when it was imported, it may also be a 1640 MC.


Nice collection of H-5000, tjsudbury.
Your "Imperial" must should have the word "Imperial" stamped on the barrel. If not, then, it's a 4000. There is a lot of confusion about the "Imperial".
The three on the right seems to be 1640s variants. They look to be 1640 Std. The last one seems to have checkering on the fore end, not sure from your picture. If so, it originally was a 4100.
With left side close ups of the actions and and fore end area (where there is or not) checkering, it should be possible to positively indentify the specific models.

thanks, mine does have the white spacers between the wood and the bakelite. I don't know the difference between a MC and a straight comb stock. I would send pictures, but I don't have the rifle in my possession yet.(Waiting for PAL to arrive in mail).
 

Nice collection of H-5000, tjsudbury.
Your "Imperial" must should have the word "Imperial" stamped on the barrel. If not, then, it's a 4000. There is a lot of confusion about the "Imperial".
The three on the right seems to be 1640s variants. They look to be 1640 Std. The last one seems to have checkering on the fore end, not sure from your picture. If so, it originally was a 4100.
With left side close ups of the actions and and fore end area (where there is or not) checkering, it should be possible to positively indentify the specific models.

Baribal
The one I called the Imperial Lightweight must be a 4100. It has no "Imperial" stamped on it. It does have a cheek piece, and a 3 leaf rear sight. The barrel is like a pencil, far slimmer contour than any of my other 1600's. Picture below, it is on the right, with an H-5000 on the left for comparison.

SAM_1506.jpg


The 7mm mag on the far right has an after-market heavey contour stainless barrel. It does have a checkered fore-end, and a cheek piece. The 6.5x55 and the 8x57 I guess are just run of the mill 1640's, no checkering on the fore end.

SAM_1504.jpg
[/IMG]
 
Then, your "Ligthweight" is a 4000, not a 4100, because of the Monte-Carlo stock. The 4100 have a straight comb (witha cheek piece) and my gusee is that your 7 RM originally was a 4100.
Yes, what you describe as "run of the mill" was, in fact, named 1640 Standard.
Your 8X57 is a non-common (while not "rare") caliber for a 1640. The Swedes prefered the 9.3',s the 6.5, 30-06 and 270 Win.

Mosinmaster;
There a many, many aftermarket alternative M/98 stocks floating around. EE and Gun shows may be a good place to find spares (but, unfortunately, the chances you find a 640 walnut stock are close to non-existant, except if you're really lucky and fins a 1100/1000 stock).

Shagsnwags;
MC = Monte-Carlo (Raised comb).
 
Thanks Baribal, I now see the difference. Yes, I believe that mine is the MC stock with the high rollover cheek-piece which would make it synonymous with the crown grade 3000. Once again, thanks for the help.
 
1964 would be the correct year of manufacture.
Then, are you sure it's a 1600? the 1600 is the short barreled version @ 20.47". The 1640 is the long barreled action @ 23.62" . There is a lot of confusion on this, because of the CFC register is wrong.

Thanks for the quick reply, the barrel is 20.47 long so I'm guessing its the 1600. Its nice to know exactly what model it is and to date it. Cheers and thanks again!
 
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