Cast Bullet ####
- Thread starter jethunter
- Start date
kenneth carlson
Regular
- Location
- thunder bay on
I got a 115 gr round nose, 150 gr spire point ,and a 247 gr round flat on the way. Gonna try some of my 155 hp 30-30 boolits in the gun next.
Kenneth,
Welcome to the club! Getting cast spire point bullets to shoot well in a rifle is one of the greatest efforts in the discipline. Having said that, it is not impossible, and you don't sound like a quitter at all.
Ted
kenneth carlson
Regular
- Location
- thunder bay on
From top to bottom. 115 gr 30 cal round nose boolits. 155 gr hp and 165 gr flat nose 30 cal 30-30 boolits. And on the very bottom are 375 gr spire point 50 cal 500 smith and Wesson boolits.
Gonna try some 115 gr in the 300 blackout and also some 30-30 boolits for the blackout. I am hoping for some good results. I'll take better pictures once I get them lube sized.
Gonna try some 115 gr in the 300 blackout and also some 30-30 boolits for the blackout. I am hoping for some good results. I'll take better pictures once I get them lube sized.
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Question for the experienced casters. Why do the frosty bullets have a different weight ( about two grains) ?
I'm still trying to get a grip on not making frosty bullets even though the powder coat may stick better to them.
I'm still trying to get a grip on not making frosty bullets even though the powder coat may stick better to them.
different lead temps make for different bullet weights, i'm guessing the frosted ones are heavier? if your good with basic electrical wiring i would suggest a PID temp controller for your casting pot, it will help keep a consistent temperature with your lead. since using one in my lee 20lb pot i've yet to have a single frosted bullet. i'm just plinking with my bullets so it really doesn't matter but if your after consistent bullets that's the way to go.
here are some links about pid's
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?181319-Pid-Controller-Schematic
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1206083-PID-lead-pot-controller?highlight=PID
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/1227711-PID-s?highlight=PID
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Frosty bullets are a result of mold temperature being too high. Back off on the pot temperature or slow down on the time you let the mould cool before you drop the bullets. Frosty bullets are not bad bullets and usually quite consistent in weight because they have good fill out.
NOE 35-228 (35XCB) boolit designed by "Goodsteel" I have high hopes for this from my tight barreled (McGowen) Savage 110 in 358 Winchester. Sized to .3585" with homemade gas checks. I plan to pan lube with 666-1 and overcoat with Ben's Liquid Lube. I've had good success with the RCBS 35-200-F over 3031 so I'm going to start with that.
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458 winmag, 485gr cast bullet, 1970 fps amv, 100yds.
New rifle and early stages of load development starting to show some promise.
458 winmag, 485gr cast bullet, 1970 fps amv, 100yds.
New rifle and early stages of load development starting to show some promise.
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Decided to start casting slugs for some close range fun. Lee 7/8 oz mold, planning to load into win AA hulls once I figure out how to adjust column height. New to shotgun reloading. Above the slugs are some lee 200 grain semi wad cutters to add to the pile.
I haven't been able to find a great load for the 7/8oz slugs. Everything I try shoots 6-8" groups at 50yds (out of a smoothbore). I have several loads for the 1oz that will put 5-shots into 4-5" groups out of the same shotgun.
To adjust wad-column height I use fibre wads. I keep bags of Circle Fly Wads around in .125" and .500" thickness for that purpose. Also keep .125" thick 20ga wads on hand for use inside a 12ga plastic shotcup (really handy for the Lee slugs). Ordered them from Track of the Wolf in the US; no problem shipping to Canada.
To adjust wad-column height I use fibre wads. I keep bags of Circle Fly Wads around in .125" and .500" thickness for that purpose. Also keep .125" thick 20ga wads on hand for use inside a 12ga plastic shotcup (really handy for the Lee slugs). Ordered them from Track of the Wolf in the US; no problem shipping to Canada.
I have some 12 gauge 1/2" Herters fiber wads in a box of my dad's old reloading stuff but don't know what to do with the them. Do they go under a plastic wad if needed and how do they affect the load recipe? I've heard that to change the component selection is verboten in shot shells. Good to know about track of the wolf. I looked at wholesale and online at cabelas for 20 gauge nitro cards and came up empty handed. Thanks for the help.
With a plastic wad I usually add the extra wads inside the shotcup. Could also add them below I guess.
Modifying shotshell load data can be very dangerous depending on what you're doing. I often reduce the powder a little (5-10% or so) if I change something in the wad column and haven't run into problems. Swapping primers or hull/plastic wad combinations can be problematic.
I've used 100% exact published loads that caused hulls to stick in my chamber (bottom brass expanded too much I guess) so when a load doesn't stick I take it as a good sign. I've also tried several published slug and buckshot loads that can't possibly fit into the specified hulls (the load is 1/4" above the top of the shell into the crimp so the hull wont crimp properly and almost completely opens over the following day or two being left on a shelf).
Modifying shotshell load data can be very dangerous depending on what you're doing. I often reduce the powder a little (5-10% or so) if I change something in the wad column and haven't run into problems. Swapping primers or hull/plastic wad combinations can be problematic.
I've used 100% exact published loads that caused hulls to stick in my chamber (bottom brass expanded too much I guess) so when a load doesn't stick I take it as a good sign. I've also tried several published slug and buckshot loads that can't possibly fit into the specified hulls (the load is 1/4" above the top of the shell into the crimp so the hull wont crimp properly and almost completely opens over the following day or two being left on a shelf).
.44 magnum with Lee .430" 310gr powder coated with signal red, sized to .4305" with gas check.
They worked great with 19gr of H110 but I've been having a hard time finding any (missed it last time Higginsons had some in). Trying out 18gr of IMR4227 this time. These heavy bullets only stabilize in my Marlin 1894 lever rifle at higher velocities it seems. Any mid to low end loads (Titegroup, Unique, and Trail Boss) and they tumble and keyhole. I know I'm pushing the max weight for an 1894 twist rate but I like playing around.
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They worked great with 19gr of H110 but I've been having a hard time finding any (missed it last time Higginsons had some in). Trying out 18gr of IMR4227 this time. These heavy bullets only stabilize in my Marlin 1894 lever rifle at higher velocities it seems. Any mid to low end loads (Titegroup, Unique, and Trail Boss) and they tumble and keyhole. I know I'm pushing the max weight for an 1894 twist rate but I like playing around.
Oh, I know all about that
I appreciate the advice though. I didn't find out about that until after I had to clean a lot of lead out of the bore several times (and still had to clean a lot of lead out after that as well during my experiments).
I've been struggling with this rifle for a couple years trying to get cast bullets to work. The barrel slugs .4315" but for whatever reason the .4305" PC'ed bullets seem to work and are accurate so I wont complain. I've tried .429", .430", .431", .433", .435", and .438" (round balls) in soft cast, hard cast, gas checked, plain base, small wads in the cases under the bullet, low velocity, high velocity, and all other normal "solutions" to getting cast to work in a Marlin Micro Groove barrel and none of it has ever worked. I either get tumbling bullets or horrendous leading in the bore. PC'ing was my last-ditch attempt before just giving up and relegating the rifle to jacketed bullets only but it seems to have worked (at least with H110, don't know if these IMR4227 loads work yet).
My .430" 240gr SWC mold would drop as-cast at .431-.432" or so and I would PC them up to .432-.433"-ish, not size them, and they seemed to work at higher velocities as well. Meant to do some more testing when I realized the mold is damaged and all the bullets come out with fins on the bases. Been meaning to order a replacement since it's a design/weight I'd like to keep around for any potential 44 revolvers in my future.
