Crusader Arms Crypto

It was designed to take only 5rd mags, that is why it is still legal though with all the guys posting photos of their mods to fit ar mags that might not last.
 
Has anybody bought a new production receiver set recently? Have all the problems been fixed?
  • out of spec machining (mostly at selector pin hole and dust cover)
  • poor anodization (not just the purple but anodizing wearing off too easily)
  • gouges on threads
  • poor design of lightening cuts causing premature wear on receiver from cam track
  • probably more that I've forgotten about?
Thanks all!
 
I’m also wondering how much play you guys have between your uppers and lowers? My upper and lower seems to have a decent amount of “wobble”
I’m wondering if maybe the cheap takedown pin I’m using is slightly out of spec… causing the rear end of the gun to be a loose fit. Any thoughts?
 
Nick3052 said:
I’m also wondering how much play you guys have between your uppers and lowers? My upper and lower seems to have a decent amount of “wobble”
I’m wondering if maybe the cheap takedown pin I’m using is slightly out of spec… causing the rear end of the gun to be a loose fit. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Could be, Im still waiting for my Crypto to come in, but there is Accu Wedge that is designed to take that wobble out, but Im not sure if it fits inside the Crypto. That wobble is a common thing on AR15

https://armsunlimited.com/au-accu-w...ciRuVLMfeXCfJFD4pJaMngPUoVx0lFFwZwrMA7cenj5aU
 
Any ideas on how I could take some wobble out of the two front sliding pins? My buddy said the accuwedge works for the rear. I have a hair of slop where the lower pins meet the upper holes. I tried putting some heat shrink on the pins to increase their thickness but it was too tight. Any other methods? Maybe some kind of silicon? Apply then let it dry? Maybe it’ll still allow me to seperate the reciveres but take up that hair line of play?
 
Nick3052 said:
Any ideas on how I could take some wobble out of the two front sliding pins? My buddy said the accuwedge works for the rear. I have a hair of slop where the lower pins meet the upper holes. I tried putting some heat shrink on the pins to increase their thickness but it was too tight. Any other methods? Maybe some kind of silicon? Apply then let it dry? Maybe it’ll still allow me to seperate the reciveres but take up that hair line of play?
Click to expand...
I would try the accuwedge, removing play at the rear will likely take it out of the front too. You don't want those front pins getting jammed permanently in their holes.
 
Nick3052 said:
Any ideas on how I could take some wobble out of the two front sliding pins? My buddy said the accuwedge works for the rear. I have a hair of slop where the lower pins meet the upper holes. I tried putting some heat shrink on the pins to increase their thickness but it was too tight. Any other methods? Maybe some kind of silicon? Apply then let it dry? Maybe it’ll still allow me to seperate the reciveres but take up that hair line of play?
Click to expand...
Try small shim stock with hole punched out for the rearward facing pins? You could trim pieces from the thinnest fans of a spark plug feeler gauge... Just need to add a few thousandths
 
Leonidas said:
Try small shim stock with hole punched out for the rearward facing pins? You could trim pieces from the thinnest fans of a spark plug feeler gauge... Just need to add a few thousandths
Click to expand...
I think he was looking to make the pins tighter in their bores instead of increasing the binding on the rear pin, either way it took me a minute to realize you were suggesting to put the shim over the pins like legs going into underwear and not to shove the circles of shim in the pin holes or wrap the shim around the pins. Your idea would be easy to test with plastic wrap, aluminum foil or paper.
 
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