DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

The guy I just spoke to on teh phone does not know if they are sold out or not as they are in the middle of a move and won't be setteled in till next week some time. So, I will hold off on buying the Sig DVD and make sure I have a kit coming my way first.
 
I put in an order this morning on their website and got a call this afternoon to finalize some details and the guy I spoke with said the transfer should go through today...:)
 
Mine arrived yesterday. So far I've put about 10 hours into it just finishing the frame, slide, and a few of the smaller pieces (hammer, slide lock, trigger bar, trigger). Filing out the barbs in the mag well was pretty time consuming. Now every thing is cleaned and blued and looking pretty good. Pics are coming when everything is assembled.
 
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Deckard said:
I hear that the slide is completely milled, so how much of an exact 228 clone can it be?
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if the pic Dook posted is the same as what everyone else is getting, the slide doesn't look like a milled one to me. Sig slides with roll pins are formed and the breach block pinned in place. Milled slides have no pin as the block is one piece with the slide. Now it's possible these are new milled slides designed to take the pinned in block, but I couldn't imagine why you'd do that.
 
I've never built a gun from a kit like this before, so I don't know how to really quantify the amount of fitting required. I wouldn't call it "minor" though. I spent between 2 and 3 hours just filing out the rails in the mag well. I spent probably another 6 finishing and re-bluing the frame and slide. I also had to take almost 1.5mm off the top of the locking block because it was catching on the bottom of the feed ramp of the barrel when I put the slide on. The hole for the trigger pin was way too small and needed to be drilled out, as did the hole for the roll pin than tensions the sear spring.
A word of caution: Be careful with the plastic hammer stop. Mine shattered when I tried to tap it into place with a hammer. Also be careful if you have to bend any of the levers. My slide stop lever broke in half when I tried to bend it slightly so it would fit better and not bind on the inside of the frame. I'm guessing these pieces are heat treated to make them hard and thus more resistant to wear, but the downside is that they are brittle. So I need to find a couple replacement parts but so far it's been a really fun project. I've found a new understanding of why some guns are so expensive.
 
AdamO said:
Just how bad is it? 'sick of filing' doesn't quite seem like the 'minor fit and finishing' that is apparently required.
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Hokus Grey said:
Are you filing off the rails in the magwell? That could take a minute, I'm sure.
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Well ....... I wouldn't call it minor fit and finish ...... depending on the finish your looking for !!

I've got it in my head that when I'm done, this is going to be a sleek and ###y looking pistol.... so I've been spending a bit of time draw filing the flat surfaces of the gun that won't be hidden by the grips etc. I've been strictly filing so far because its the best way I know of to maintain smooth flat surfaces and crisp edges ...... but its also a pain in the ass !:p

And I haven't gotten to the mag well ridges yet, but they are coming out eventually !!

I'm hesitant to include photos cause my camera sucks, and the pictures don't give an accurate depiction of how it really looks :)

but here is a before and after (so far )

BEFORE

Raw_tn.jpg


AFTER

DrawFiling_tn.jpg


Next I'll probably hit it with 400 grit abrasive paper to smooth it out some more ...... I have been finding there are a couple of low spots in the casting that would take alot more filing to remove than I'm prepared to do, so I'll have to figure out what I'm prepared to live with ......

I've been toying with the idea of filling the low spots with something like devcon steel epoxy, filing it smooth and coating with cerakote ...... anyone have any experience with this ??

:cheers:
 
Thanks for the pictures Joe boy. Looks like a lot of work, but I'm sure she'll be a beautiful gun in the end.

Mine should be here any day now and I'll be able to get started. I guess I should go get a file from crappy tire today.
 
reid134 said:
why not use a dremal? it looks like it will work.
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Well .... at least for me, I've found its very easy to round over and blur edges and you tend to end up with something that looks like a melted candle.

Rotary tools etc certainly do have their place, but if you use it for all the surfaces I find I'm not happy with the result. To get a true flat smooth surface requires either a surface grinder, or (the poor mans alternative ) Draw filing.

A tip for filing : Grind the edges of you file safe, meaning remove the file teeth so you can file right up against a shoulder and not remove material from where you don't intend to ! :D
 
joe-boy said:
Well .... at least for me, I've found its very easy to round over and blur edges and you tend to end up with something that looks like a melted candle.

Rotary tools etc certainly do have their place, but if you use it for all the surfaces I find I'm not happy with the result. To get a true flat smooth surface requires either a surface grinder, or (the poor mans alternative ) Draw filing.

A tip for filing : Grind the edges of you file safe, meaning remove the file teeth so you can file right up against a shoulder and not remove material from where you don't intend to ! :D
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That's what I thought. Too easy to remove too much material with a Dremel, so flat filing is going to be the way to go.

Can't wait to see some of these together and see how they shoot. Mine should be here today! *Fingers crossed*

How many times a day do they deliver the mail? LOL
 
joe-boy said:
I've been toying with the idea of filling the low spots with something like devcon steel epoxy, filing it smooth and coating with cerakote ...... anyone have any experience with this ??

:cheers:
Click to expand...

I used JB weld on a Norinco 1911 to get ride of the made in china and inported by norinco


IMG_6034.jpg

IMG_6014.jpg
 
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