My New Norc M4 meets Mr. Cutoff Wheel

Heat the sight block till its red hot but not the pins. Pound the #### out of it with a real hammer. It will fly off... and wear safety glasses. Its a norc you just can't make the finish any worse than brand new anyway.
 
Granddad always said....don't force it...use a bigger hammer !

He also said that if it's got tits, tires, or a carburetor...sooner or later it will give you troubles !

Agree with the above...heat is your friend.
 
We use a 1cm head punch that fits over the pin and more to start movement, then use the taper pin punch to get it out. Good solid whacks with a large ball peen hammer.

Also, use a correct support for the unit, the orange plastic support from Brownells works well (just remember for Stag owners to go opposite of the 'pins in' 'pins out' sides).
 
I agree with dangertree. Get a larger punch that covers the entire pin and then some, and ####ing hammer your first blow on it. It will knock the pin out a bit then you can finish it with the smaller punch.
 
Sparks have flown, Sight is cut and now off the barrel - pics to follow this evening, maybe.

Mild steel so cutting was straightforward. A few love taps with a hammer and off the parts came - very nice.

Of course, gas tube doesn't fit in new gas block so out came Mr. Carbide bit and now the tube fits.

Next chore, barrel nut. ONLY CR@P!!!! I think the Chinese hired the Gorilla that used to work at Savage.

Need to make better blocks to hold the barrel to attempt to remove that nut. If not, more sparks will fly.

Jerry
 
Well, here you go gents. If you are at all queasy about open hack surgery - LOOK AWAY NOW :)

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Here are the parts after cutting on the sides of the front sight. It takes a steady hand and you stop just shy of going through. Then some gentle taps and the steel shears and it is off.

Because of the barrel flang behind the ferrule, you can't easily cut the rear through. So more love taps on the back of the sight forces the part to move up and over the pin causing the rest of the steel to shear. At least that rear pin is good for something.

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Some of the tools of the trade.

Well, the barrel nut was next and yes, the Gorilla has been doing these installs. Hydraulic press, blocks, lead shims, rosin, armourers tool, hammer.

A whole lot of force, swearing and eventually bashing. enough force was applied on that nut that the armourers tool pins sheared and the scallops on the nut twisted, sheared, or tried to get out of the way.

Didn't budge a thing. So out came the cut off wheel again.

First the handguard retainer bit the dust and the spring and retaining clip. Man that is a nasty way to hold the handguard in place.

Back to more attempts at getting the nut off now that the retainer is not in the way. No joy.

So the final cutting of the nut began. I sliced down until you can see the shadow of the threads coming through. Then more attention paid to the front which is the lip that holds the barrel in place.

You simply cant cut deep enough to part without risking scoring the barrel. With one side cut, a few solids whacks showed me, this was not going anywhere.

Plan B, another cut on the opposite side was made. With two relief cuts, certainly this nut would not come off with the armourers tool - Not a hope.

Hammer and Cold Chisel and some very energetic smacks and the nut finally sheared. I was 2 hits short of quartering the nut.

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Norinco may not have the most durable finish on their rifles but the steel used is UBBER tough and they do not believe in anything coming loose

The barrel suffered light scuffs as I figured out how to hold the barrel in place. These marks are happily covered by the handguard and gas block.

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Here is the nut from the YHM free float hg happily now on the receiver. A few more minutes to bolt all the stuff on and the rig will be blinged up. Still waiting on the stock but we all know that a magpul stock looks like.

So I can offer a strong warning that changing parts on your Norc is not going to be as simple as on a US manf AR. Unless you have access to much different tools then me, cutting off the parts is pretty much the norm.

However, when the fugery is done, aftermarket parts will bolt on with 'little' extra work.

Next pics will be of the finished rig.

Enjoy...

Jerry
 
Spend the $20-30 on a front site bench block... Pass it around to your friends when they need it.. OR ?Try your local gunsmith?, mine will punch those out for free if you buy something (I.E., a box of ammo) takes just a few seconds.

Also as everyone else has said, they are tapered pins... Just be aware.
 
Note to self: Don't send Jerry my AR to work on :slap:

To anyone else having issues with those rotten taper pins, we have a couple of gnomes in the back of the shop who specialize in getting these things apart .... without resorting to buchery. Everytime I have trouble with one, I just leave it on the bench and when I come back the pins are magically out. :D

They won't tell me how it is done .... probably some special gnome incantation or something equally weird and secret.
 
Note to self: Don't send Jerry my AR to work on :slap:

To anyone else having issues with those rotten taper pins, we have a couple of gnomes in the back of the shop who specialize in getting these things apart .... without resorting to buchery. Everytime I have trouble with one, I just leave it on the bench and when I come back the pins are magically out. :D

They won't tell me how it is done .... probably some special gnome incantation or something equally weird and secret.

gnomes like a nice tight hole too :adult: :D

good to know about those pins
 
Whatcha gona do with the flash hider to get the new block on? :)

Should serve to correct the remarks about "cheap junk"

I think you got that bass ackwards. If it 'wasn't' cheap junk, you'd be able to get the parts off without the carnage. Then again you can't work on guns using your thighs for a vise, or carpenter tools on a kitchen counter.

:eek: The horror of it all.
 
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