Norinco NS522 build: NEW MAG RELEASE

Arwho said:
Good idea! Thanks.
I don't know where to get the material to do pillar and glass bedding, free floating seems easier.
Click to expand...

It is easier and a great starting point. All the materials needed for pillar and glass bedding can be found at Canadian Tire. I used brass plumbing pipe for my pillars and I use JB Weld for most rimfire "glass" bedding. Less than $20 for everything you need.

I had to bed it, as my action was rocking in the stock on the cocking stroke.

Yeah, yeah. Thats what she said!
 
question.

as a person who has never really been much into the whole bedding thing, i did some watching on youtube and some reading online.....

from what i can see rimfire do better free floated and center fire better bed and pillared?
 
wayupnorth said:
question.

as a person who has never really been much into the whole bedding thing, i did some watching on youtube and some reading online.....

from what i can see rimfire do better free floated and center fire better bed and pillared?
Click to expand...

I can only answer that with my own experience. I bed every rimfire, but I am also (not bragging) a good shot, so when I bed (pillar or epoxy) I notice a difference. It is about repeatability, consistency. I normally would have bedded this rifle in stages to test, but the stock fit was terrible, so I did it all.

When it comes to rimfire bedding the pinnacle of accuracy comes from the rimfire benchrest crowd. Not only do they bed, but they glue the action to the stock. Pretty clear that they notice a difference.

I weigh each of my rounds too, as I notice a difference through my own testing. Each result will be different for sure, so I would say try and experiment with what gives your individual rig improvement.
I do know and can tell you for certain that the action of any bedded rifle will be smoother and cycling will be nicer. Also, I had a CZ that was very finicky with action screw torque. After bedding with pillars it was much less so. I would just snug it down and it was fine.

Try it out.
 
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Arwho said:
Good idea! Thanks.
I don't know where to get the material to do pillar and glass bedding, free floating seems easier.
Click to expand...


These are two entirely different issues/operations.

bedding involves using a low-shrink epoxy to form a perfect mate of the action to the stock. Usually about a tenth of an inch of material is removed to leave room for the epoxy. I make sure there are some cavities to take extra epoxy so there is no risk of it falling out.

Pillars are a column of solid material around the screws so that when you tight the action screw you are compressing a column of epoxy or a sleeve of metal - rather than crushing the wood.

Regardless of the bedding (or no bedding), the barrel can touch the wood or it can be free of the wood. If the action is solidly bedded, the barrel is probably going to be more accurate and hold zero better if it is free of the wood.
 
Got it at Home Depot. Some use lamp rod,
But I find the thicker walls of the brass a better fit
For most rimfire action screws. I chuck it in my drill press and cut it to size using a hacksaw. I also cut grooves in it to aid in bedding traction. If i need to fine tune the length I just chuck it back in the press and lower it down on a block of wood clamped to the tool rest with either a file or some sandpaper on it. That way I get a nice even finish. I had to extend the ones for the Norinco to get the bottom metal to be flush and eliminate the lame washers. They are different lengths front and back.

I can measure mine for you and get you in the ballpark if you need.
 
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This is an excellent thread you've got going here Father. I'm feeling the urge to spring for a 522 myself. But I have so many rimfire "project guns" already that are all crying for attention that I'm trying to resist. You're not making it easy though.... :D
 
BCRider said:
This is an excellent thread you've got going here Father. I'm feeling the urge to spring for a 522 myself. But I have so many rimfire "project guns" already that are all crying for attention that I'm trying to resist. You're not making it easy though.... :D
Click to expand...

HAHA! Well, I sold my offhand ( it was a Savage MKII) rig as this is way more accurate. Get one.
 
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Just had a thought a few minutes back. About two years ago I bought an Anschutz rear peep sight. You know, the fancy one.

I've been looking around for a rifle for it to fit that won't foul with the bolt coming up and back. So far no luck other than a Browning T bolt. But it would have needed a dovetail rail fitted. But if the 522 is a clone of an Anschutz then the sight should fit right on and not foul the bolt.

Please tell me that there's a dovetail cut in the upper rear of the receiver to accept such a rear sight. If there is I'll "gamble" on one for myself. I checked the pictures in this thread and generally on the web but I can't get a good detail shot of the upper rear of the receiver to tell if the sight would fit on without a riser of any sort.

And if I could impose a shot from the rear with the bolt raised and possibly showing the dovetail relationship would let me get a good view to tell if it would work. If I can get you to post such a picture or email it to me I'd be much in your debt.

Of course I'll still need to get a globe front and cut in a dovetail. But I've done enough metal working that such a job doesn't worry me at all.
 
At Busy Bee.....................


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I grabbed a set of those chisels and found them...lacking. Busy Bee Edmonton, during the introductory sale at Busy Bee there.

I suspect that they are a pretty good start on a cutting tool, but the ones I got seemed to have been ground without any regard for keeping the heat treat of the chisels intact. They do not hold an edge worth a pinch of poo, and on top of that, the shaped portion of the various shaped gouges is pretty thick and crudely done.

Not all bad though. I am going to play around a little and see if I can get a decent hardness on them by heating and quenching then carefully regrinding or stoning the cutting edge. I suspect they are simple carbon steel.

Think of them as a starting point towards a set of very cheap chisels, that need a little work done to them to be made useful. About 95 percent of the work has been done.

All for the price of a single quality tool from Lee Valley.

A bargain! :) But keep the shortcomings in mind and accept them or do some work to them.

Mine has a Smith and Wesson logo prominently displayed on the box lid. I think they were an OK buy at the price, but temper your expectations to the price point.

There is also a pretty good layer of clear laquer or paint over the metal portions, that flakes off in use, if you do not scrape the stuff off yourself. Suspect it will burn off nicely as the heat is applied to the blades to harden.

Cheers
Trev
 
trevj said:
I grabbed a set of those chisels and found them...lacking. Busy Bee Edmonton, during the introductory sale at Busy Bee there.

I suspect that they are a pretty good start on a cutting tool, but the ones I got seemed to have been ground without any regard for keeping the heat treat of the chisels intact. They do not hold an edge worth a pinch of poo, and on top of that, the shaped portion of the various shaped gouges is pretty thick and crudely done.

Not all bad though. I am going to play around a little and see if I can get a decent hardness on them by heating and quenching then carefully regrinding or stoning the cutting edge. I suspect they are simple carbon steel.

Think of them as a starting point towards a set of very cheap chisels, that need a little work done to them to be made useful. About 95 percent of the work has been done.

All for the price of a single quality tool from Lee Valley.

A bargain! :) But keep the shortcomings in mind and accept them or do some work to them.

Mine has a Smith and Wesson logo prominently displayed on the box lid. I think they were an OK buy at the price, but temper your expectations to the price point.

There is also a pretty good layer of clear laquer or paint over the metal portions, that flakes off in use, if you do not scrape the stuff off yourself. Suspect it will burn off nicely as the heat is applied to the blades to harden.

Cheers
Trev
Click to expand...

I also bought a set of these and would say Trevj hit every point exactly the way I would describe them.

Scott....
 
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