Savage Model 10TR, 308 WIN, 24" Barrel, Military/LE Promo Only

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burnaby said:
^MD> Sounds like it doesn't take much to run this rifle up to $2000 with your noted upgrades. Begs the question, better to upgrade or just cry once, spend 2G or 3G on a brand name precision rifle?

I haven't yet but will eventually get into a precision rifle. Likely do the cry once. Wonder what a budget of $3000 would buy me? or is it better to something like this 10TR and upgrade?
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Haha, no, I’m not planning on anything beyond the chassis for the 10TR. The chassis, the rifle, and glass, that’s it. It shoots great out of the box, but if I’m going to get into the realm of trueing the action, swapping out the trigger and rebarrelling, I may as well have started off building the thing from scratch.

The rifle shot great out of the box. The glass, well, there’s no getting around spending $$ for that, unless you can shoot without glass like the guy in the review, but this rifle will probably satisfy a lot of people without feeling the need to upgrade.
 
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My buddy picked one up a few weeks back, got it from Ryan at SFRC. We mounted an optic, laser bore sighted it and it was shooting 1.352" at 150 meters for five shots with a load he had from his other 308. There was one flyer in that group that I called, the other four went 0.889", again at 150 meters. I would say these rifles are shooters. The stock does feel a bit cheap, but it is decent and will do the job for some one not wanting to dump a bunch of cash on the rifle.
 
Neat little gun, and pretty good for the price.

I didn't need or even want one. Until I saw all the butthurt on cgn. Then I HAD to have one, just because I could.

Thanks Ryan!! I'll see you soon at the shop, the next week or so.
 
And you wonder why all the female thinks the guys are childish and psychotic. Gonna have one just cause all the other butthurt dudes can't.

Enjoy your rifle :)
wicked_police said:
...I didn't need or even want one. Until I saw all the butthurt on cgn. Then I HAD to have one, just because I could...
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Mister Donut said:
I’ll try to flip the Accustock for $100 on EE (seen two other guys do it already), I think that’s a fair price...
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I've got mine listed on EE for $100 plus shipping. Considering just the magazine costs more than $50, I'd say it's a VERY fair price! I've had a few interested people so far, but I'm not letting it go until I've got my chassis. Still jealous of your Carbon!
 
burnaby said:
I haven't yet but will eventually get into a precision rifle. Likely do the cry once. Wonder what a budget of $3000 would buy me? or is it better to something like this 10TR and upgrade?
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I've looked into building a precision rifle from scratch. Better budget more like $5000-$6000 for a hand built sub 1/2 moa shooter.

I'm lucky that I work part-time at a gun store and get a wicked staff deal on optics.

Rifle: $600
Chassis: $1,000
Bipod: $60
Scope & rings: $300
Farrell 20moa rail: $120
Having a Military/LEO only rifle in a custom chassis: PRICELESS!
For everything else, there's tinfoil hats.
 
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Haha, if you hurry, maybe it's not too late to change your order to the carbon one, not THAT much more considering all the other stuff you're going to get :)

I spoke to someone recently about building a rifle from the ground up...he said he spent about $550 for a barrel, $400 for an action, $2600 for a chassis, and $1300-1500 for labor. Don't remember what the bolt and trigger cost, maybe it was included in the cost of the action for $400?
 
Has anyone taken off the one piece scope rail? Anyone run into problems?

I gave the rifle it's major cleaning yesterday. I noticed that there was obvious oil under the rail where it meets the action. I go to take it off and find out the screws are on ridiculously tight. I couldn't get any of them off without risking stripping the heads. I may have done that to one.

I stopped trying to take it off and just finished cleaning the rest. Any insight?
 
I tried taking mine off, one came out, the others are being held on with glue made from pure unicorn hoof. There may be oil or gunk underneath, but that rail isn't moving in the slightest so who cares?
 
Boreas said:
Has anyone taken off the one piece scope rail? Anyone run into problems?

I gave the rifle it's major cleaning yesterday. I noticed that there was obvious oil under the rail where it meets the action. I go to take it off and find out the screws are on ridiculously tight. I couldn't get any of them off without risking stripping the heads. I may have done that to one.

I stopped trying to take it off and just finished cleaning the rest. Any insight?
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Mine came off without a problem, the screws were tight but they came out with no damage. There was oil under the rail as well. I know I've read a couple others have caused damage to the screws trying to get them out, wether it was operator error or just retarded tight I don't know.
 
Boreas said:
Has anyone taken off the one piece scope rail? Anyone run into problems?

I gave the rifle it's major cleaning yesterday. I noticed that there was obvious oil under the rail where it meets the action. I go to take it off and find out the screws are on ridiculously tight. I couldn't get any of them off without risking stripping the heads. I may have done that to one.

I stopped trying to take it off and just finished cleaning the rest. Any insight?
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Yup, 2 came out with relative ease; 2 stripped.

Had to drill the head with a 1/8" bit and then used a s2 3mm hex head bit and lightly tapped it into the enlarged head and cranked them out.
 
Suppose my last response doesn't help you much! Curious as to why you want to take it off? If it's for cleaning purposes only I'd leave it alone, especially if the screws are that tight. I get it if you want to swap it out for a larger MOA rail. Good luck.
 
Northern Amateur said:
Suppose my last response doesn't help you much! Curious as to why you want to take it off? If it's for cleaning purposes only I'd leave it alone, especially if the screws are that tight. I get it if you want to swap it out for a larger MOA rail. Good luck.
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i guess its just people making sure their base is level. if the base isn't level to the receiver you need to bed the base. If your base isn't level and you decided to screw it on anyways you will bend your base when you fully tighten it and that will cause problems with your rings.
 
It was suggested by someone on here that oil under the rail is not ideal for rifle consistency. Personally I'd like to start fresh, with a completely clean rifle and know that the rail is torqued properly. I might end up just leaving it on there for now though.
 
Boreas said:
It was suggested by someone on here that oil under the rail is not ideal for rifle consistency. Personally I'd like to start fresh, with a completely clean rifle and know that the rail is torqued properly. I might end up just leaving it on there for now though.
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I'm not an avid shooter. Just the odd weekender at the range. I think you have the right idea. Leave it where it is and enjoy it. If it loosens up while shooting, great. It's what you wanted anyway. If the consistency is off so much as you don't like shooting the rifle anymore, then invest in having the rail removed. IMHO the 10tr is a budget shooter much like the Remington 700 SPS (which I also have). Have fun and be safe!
 
Boreas said:
It was suggested by someone on here that oil under the rail is not ideal for rifle consistency. Personally I'd like to start fresh, with a completely clean rifle and know that the rail is torqued properly. I might end up just leaving it on there for now though.
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Make darn sure you use the correct size tool and it should not be an issue to remove. Mine were tight as well but if the key is inserted to the bottom, they should come out. Like you, I wanted to start with a clean rifle and not have the rail sitting on a bed of oil. Definitely worth it as there was lots of oil under the rail. Good luck.
 
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