SKS: Optics, sights & mounts.... update feb 16, 2010

[Curtton]

I gathered all the information and pictures and organized them in one thread to share it with you .

you are welcome to post your pics as long as they are NOT FROM CYBERSPACE .

if I used your pics please maintain them on your photo album , thank you for your contribution . if you wish to edit them , you can PM me .

1. MOUNTS

a. SIDE MOUNT

Some more quick detachable options to mount on the same side rail:

side rail made by Tula for SKS

Russian military Red Dot made in Belarus on Tula side rail

POSP 2-6x24 variable magnification made in Belarus on the same rail

Weaver mount on the same rail

There have been a few posts lately about scope mounts for our SKS’s, here are some photos of the Choate mount from SKSMAN I put on a couple weeks ago. It really wasn’t too difficult to do with my drill press.
I essentially did what curtton has in his SKS Basics thread sticky, “Scoping the SKS”.
Finding a tap off the shelf for the 8-40 thread bolts that come with the Choate mount proved impossible, so I simply ordered three #28J drill bits (#891-128-140) and two 8-40 taper taps (#395-840-001) from Brownells for a few dollars each. The drill bits cut through that receiver like nothing. I was very careful tapping the holes though, quarter turn, back out tap, clean, quarter turn, backout, etc. I used ATF for a cutting lube.
The instructions for the mount said to install it 1.5” from the end of the receiver. I installed it 1 3/8” from the end and positioned the bottom of the diamond cutouts on the mount flush to the top of the receiver. This is about as far back and as low as the mount can be installed. Any farther back and you may not be able to remove the receiver cover and bolt from the rifle for cleaning. I also wanted to install the mount as far back as possible for using stripper clips.
I drilled and tapped the forward hole first and used one of the bolts to install the mount, made sure it sat level, transfer punched the back hole and drilled and tapped it. Then did the two middle holes. This ensured all the holes were lined up correctly.
A notch has to be cut in the stock to accommodate the mount, so before lock tighting the bolts I used a sharpie pen to trace the outline of the mount on the receiver and then removed it. Installed the stock and traced the top of the wood on the receiver and marked the front and back notch locations on the wood. Removed the receiver from the stock and measured the distance between the two horizontal sharpie lines on the receiver to determine the depth that the notch needed to be cut.
I cut an outline for the notch in the wood with a box cutter and a metal flat edge. I kept a bit inside the lines and took my time trimming and fitting the stock with the scope mount installed until there was a paper thickness of clearance between the wood and the mount. I stained the notch cutout and put a coat of shellac over it.
Took the rifle out in the woods and banged away, all is right with the world.Cheers

b. TOP COVER MOUNT

I just changed out the stock. I know that the nay sayers will laugh and say why but I say why not?

Before

After

I am afraid you are going to have to remove the scope mount to clean the bolt. I have a B-Square mount on my SKS and have removed it three times so far for cleaning without losing zero....

note: the B-square mount requires the removal of the top cover latch.

c. REAR SIGHT MOUNT

SCOUT MOUNT

pros: -solid mount , metal to metal contact.
-non rust, aluminum.
-average difficulty to install .
-low mount.
-no drilling.

cons: -replaces rear sight leaf .
-needs to remove rail for cleaning (got a solution below).

helpful hints: once you are happy with your set up , use blue locktite on the lower screws.

how to install: http://www.marstar.ca/ac-scout/index.shtm

Hello there,

I have purchased an SKS mount from Marstar...I decided to go with a mount which replaced the rear sight on the SKS.
http://www.marstar.ca/ac-scout/index.shtm

Now I am trying to decide whether I should go with a red dot sight or a small scope which would attach to the weaver style mount on my SKS. Price is a factor, I would like to try and keep the price of the optics to under $250...since I already dropped $120 on the mount.
Does anyone have any recommendations of inexpensive but not terrible red dot or small scopes?

Here are two quick pictures to give an idea of how the two types of optics mount to the scout scope mount...notice the scope is small (possibly a pistol scope?)

,

First of all we would like to start off by thanking all of the people who are on this board that gave us the initiative & insight on developing this mount just for your SKS needs. Specifically Curtton, supernova & also bjs7293.
From what we have been hearing from you is that you dislike the fact that there are no non-gunsmith options out there that are reliable enough to mount optic's to this rifle platform. Also the iron sight's are hard to acquire a target fast and easily, plus still want to use the stripper clip feature. Further more the optic mount's that are out there that are reliable were complex and expensive. Never mind that most SKS owners like to use the economic Czech corrosive ammunition that is widely available.
So here at B.C. Tactical we came up with this from your long list of needs and we made it from a solid piece of 6061 aircraft grade aluminum and we hope you like it.

Please check our EE add to get the pricing for this mount or visit our website for our products and pricing.

how to install a BC Tactical scout mount :
[youtube]PLZwHVtoEO0[/youtube]

d. HANDGUARD MOUNT

Received my Magwedge SKS "Kwik-Rail" today, thought I'd share some initial impressions and a few pictures. Hopefully I can make it to the range this weekend, weather permitting. Sorry for the crappy pictures, only have my iPhone handy.

Right, left, top and bottom views:

If any part of this rail is going to fail, its probably with the connection of the top piece, and the part that attaches on the sides. Not sure how its held together, but I would of liked to have seen this as one single piece instead of two.

My old BC Tactical Scout Mount. It was a pain in the ass to install. I guess my SKS was a bit out of spec on the insides, because I had to grind down the front right bottom portion of the Scout Mount to make it fit. Looked fine when it was installed though.

Not the case with the Kwik Rail, the front end was much thinner, thankfully for me.

Be sure to replace the leaf spring floor plate before installing the Magwedge Kwik-Rail if you're coming from a BC Tactical Scout mount!

Pretty easy to install. Only thing that took any time was cutting the old receiver retaining pin out with my dremel (you'll need to buy a replacement retaining pin if you want to go back to the old sights). The rail is held in at the back with a threaded tube on both ends and two hex screws. I used blue Loctite on them just to be safe. Front mount uses a rollpin. Pivots up at the front when you remove the back tube for cleaning. Really looks nice with my Bushnell TRS-25.

What it looks like from the rear (don't mind the off center dot, its not sighted in)

You can still see through to the front sight. Not sure how practical this will be, but its nice. When the red dot isn't attached its much better, and just like regular iron sights.

A few optic comparisons. (Rail/Sightmark Ultrashot/NC Star 3-9x/Bushnell TRS-25).
I noticed the mounts on the ncstar and sight mark were kinda loose. Seems like the kwik-rail is thinner than most picatinny rails, just have to adjust the width on the bottom of the sights, no big deal.

The instructions for installation were pretty vague, I was fine with that, but Im sure some people would like step by steps with pictures/video. Also, it comes with a strip of velcro to put on the bottom of the rail so it doesn't get dinged by ejecting bullets. I didn't do that, I've done the ejection port mod, so I'll see how it holds up after ~50 rounds through it. Overall it seems very solid, I have no doubt it will hold a zero. Can't wait to try it out... also, can't wait for Archangel to friggin start shipping their SKS stocks. I think this would look bad ass with it!

2. OPTICS
a. RED DOT

with the new reflex sight

b. SCOPE

my m59/66 in wood and plastic
grenade launcher is ported
POSP 8x Russian scope
added an AK47 pistol grip...it is heavy and it helps
bipod
added a Spetsnaz insignia on stock
" I went a little too far.... but it grows on you "

If you like how the authentic SVD scope looks on my SKS you could get one from here: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=417883&highlight=POSP

I scoped mine...mind you I was using a Dragonuv style stock. Didn't work worth poopookaka for me. I did have a nice side mount though.
If you insist on doing it...DO NOT use a mount that only connects to the receiver cover! Get a side mount that RIVETS (TIGHTLY) to the side of the frame. Mine was attached by short short screws. And even with red loctite they'd loosen.
Even then theres going to be no great accuracy as the Sks is only a hundred yard gun tops.

or a fixed one...

Even with a very short scope like this 4x32 Barska that is 7.5" long, it gets hit by ejected casings. You will not be able to use stripper clips with any scopes on a Choate mount except red dots.

3. STEEL SIGHT

[Please note that with the TS 200 peep kit, an explanation is given how to remove the as issued rear sight. I had a very tough time getting it out and could not install the piece of metal to cover the opening where the gas piston extension and spring are visible. They even supply a small pin to hold the cover in place.]

This is further to the last post that I made in this forum in which I posted the 200 yds 5 shot with my TS 200 peep and thinner replacement front sight.

The image below is the TS 200 installed and showing the lock washer under the bolt. It is a heavy, split washer, not the serrated one that I mentioned in the earlier post. When you are first installing the sight, put the lock washer on and use a lot of torque on the cross bolt as it goes into the nut. I found that this is vital! (Sorry for blurred image.)

Below is the sight from the rear showing the 4 cap screws which must barely touch the rear of the bolt cover and which must have Loc-Tite Blue applied to ensure they stay put. But, ONLY add the Loc-Tite after the procedure that I describe in the para below.

Here is a tip. The instructions that come with the sight make it very clear that each screw must have a slight clearance under it. This was really tough to achieve, I used a narrow strip of paper, about 1/8" wide, to ensure that I had the clearance for each screw. Also I adjusted the screws so they were turned in to the same depth while still maintaing the clearance. When I was satisfied, I then applied the L-T to each screw, one at a time in rotation with the other 3 set in place.

Below is the left side of the sight showing the nut with the cap screw going through the nut and stopping at the X bolt. Go up to the instructions above where I emphasize that the X bolt must be very tight into the nut BEFORE you insert the cap screw. Only when you are certain that the X bolt is well tightened into the nut do you put the small cap screw in with the L-T!

This below was as tough a close up as I have ever attempted with my old Nikon Cool Pix 4500. It is an image looking through the peep with the thin front sight. Because of certain constraints, I could not mount the rifle solidly nor the camera.

Below is the TS 200 tool for adjusting the peep. The two studs at 2 o'clock fit into the 2 holes on the right side of the peep. Turning the tool clockwise moves the sight right and thus the impact on target right.

The G shaped edge of the tool at 9 o'clock is used to to change the elevation and hooks into the flat nut though which the peep post passes.
Turning this nut clockwise raises the elevation. This part of the tool, I did not try to duplicate as I had made the very crude copper front sight tool in the last image.. However, I found that height adjustment of the front sight is necessary in conjunction with the adjustment on the peep. The front sight must be high enough to show up well when looking through the peep. The line-of-sight through the peep must clear the base of the open sight.

Having the TS 200 peep and no sight tool after finding that a loaded round would not in my hands at least, turn the dial, I used my metal working skills to fabricate the windage a adjustment tool. I hacked out an appropriate sized piece of copper, about 1/16", and cleaned off both sides for soldering. I then used two 1" finishing nails, bent the heads over and drilled 2 holes through the copper. I dropped the bent nails through the copper and put ample solder to hold them both in place. I turned the piece over and also applied solder to the nail heads. I then gradually ground down the nails until they were just long enough to fit in the sight.

The above tool for me works better than the TS tool shown in the first image and elevevation can be adjusted without the TS tool.

The above image is the very precisely made front sight wrench, please take note of the careful work on this tool! But it works.

Now that winter is well upon us here in Ottawa, I am anxious to get out and try the rifle at 200 yds/metres. I am considering using some JB Weld and very carefully trying to "bed" the action forward where the lam stock forward end fits into the U shaped cup underneath the barrel. As for the area under where the barrel joins the action, near the bolt, I'm unsure. Lastly, at the rear of the action, it looks to me that the major recoil is taken up by the perpendicular steel piece that projects downward from the action slightly forward of where the "take-down lever" goes through receiver cover.

I would appreciate any posts which can clarify the bedding which I hope to do this winter so that when spring comes, I'm ready to go.

That tool?

Hey all,

I was aiming at the bottom of the page in order to get it on the paper. I have come to the conclusion that the Williams Firesite sits to high in the front globe and makes it shoot to high. The TS200 I have ran out of elevation and I wasn't able to bring it down. I was kind of hoping to shoot a couple inches high at 50yds not 9". So the Williams site is getting removed and I am going back to the factory drum and post.

The Mojo SKM might be what you're looking for.

4.DEFLECTOR

Hello all, I ask you your opinion. I've recently purchased and installed a ventilated hand guard on my Russian SKS. I've always liked the look of the SVT-40 and some M1 carbines. Well, I posted my intent on an American SKS board and they had nothing but negative things to say. I consider this to be a cosmetic alteration which can be undone in 4 minutes.(I've done it) What do you guys think?

this deflector attaches to the rear sight leaf bcos the leaf is spring loaded , it absorb any vibration from striking shell casings .

to install slide the elevation piece forward , hook the deflector and slide the elevation piece back (make sure its lock) , thats it , 5 seconds to install.

you may need to file to fit and i bend the mid part of the deflector to get a better height .

the deflectors are available from CGN dealer Vinzer.

i dont actually have a scope mounted on my SKS, the deflector was for my cz858.

5. ADJUSTING STANDARD SIGHTS

http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/sights/hs.asp
[YOUTUBE]sv0VNRe4wIk[/YOUTUBE]

6. SIGHT ADJUSTING TOOL.

We have a number of Magna-Matic's sight tools coming in to the store. http://shop.neitdesigns.com

They adjust the elevation of the post as well as azmuth of the drum. They are compatible with the AK, SKS and VZ 58.

See http://www.magna-matic-defense.com/AKFST-AK-47-Front-Sight-Tool-p/akfst.htm for info.

as you can see this new tapco sight tool is built strong , thicker at the "U" and the opposing arm , also the milled cut (pen pointing) has been shorten leaving more metal .

7. REMOVAL OF REAR SIGHT LEAF.

if you have a pin in your leaf, remove it first, you can see it from the side where it pivots.

pic below: using electrician tape , tape over the leaf a few times to protect the finish.

pic above right: then using a 2" clamp tighten gently , do not over tighten, watch for the movement from the top.

below pic: after it moved down 2mm , insert a straight edge screw driver.

above pic right: tilt the screw driver forward, if the leaf doesn't move then tight a wee bit more.

below pic: when re-inserting the leaf , make sure the part that slides clears the rear hump (see pen) of the sight base. NOTE, this is important or you could be hammering all day and it wont move.

above pic right: tape again before tightening the clamp, using a mallet gently tap in the leaf.

8. DIY, installing Choate mount.
the choate mount came with 8 of #8-40 screws , why 8? i dont know, which we did not use. we decided to go with standard #8-32 screws.

1. masking tape on the receiver to protect the finish.
2. they recommended the mount be located 1 1/2" from the rear of the receiver and height be about 1/16" below the triangle /\ .
3. checked for ease of removal and reinstallation of the top cover, carrier and bolt.

4. center punch the first hole on the left. remove masking tape.
5. protect receiver in the vise with softer metal , we used aluminum .
6. level the receiver in the vise.
7. check level of the drill press table.
8. drill hole with 9/64", use oil as lubricant.
9. slowly start tapping, always check to make sure the tap is perpendicular either by eyeballing or using a 90* level.
10. turn slowly and if you feel resistance then back off 1/2 a turn , this will snap off metal shavings.
11. mount the choate with the one screw.
12. clamp the other end with a vise grip from the top, cant do that from the bottom of receiver bcos of lack of space. check the mount is level with the top of the receiver, you can see it thru the triangles.
13. make sure the mount will not move and drill the remaining holes.
14. tap the 3 holes.

15. remove sharp edges.
16. with mount in place tighten all the screws with finger and then with allen wrench, i would do the two in the middle first and then the two outter screws.
17. shorten the screws.

view from the back, the iron sight can still be used with the choate mount. below the mount rail is a curvature that follows the front sight round protector. emmab arm in the pic.

18. part of the stock needs to be cut away.
19. loctite the screws.

there !! it was a pretty easy installation. very solid mount , my only complaint would be its not removelable like the posp mount.

 

[lone-wolf]

I hope to use the Lyman 66SKS sight in the future.
I don't recall ever seeing one mounted on a sks oddly.

 

[Spearhunter]

Very nice Curton! We should stickie this and update as needed.

SH


PS. Doh! It already is...had a senior moment.

 

[Curtton]

Very nice Curton! We should stickie this and update as needed.

SH

thanks , but it is stickied already

and like the VZ optic sticky, i always update all my stickies.

 

[Sly Old Fox]

The SKS Optics and Sight Thread By Curtton

Curtton, you have our gratitude for bringing this all together in the way that you have done.

Thanks,

 

[Sly Old Fox]

Curtton's SKS Sight Thread

Further to my post above, when I worked my way down the thread, it brought to mind the Nydar shotgun sight that I bought used in early 1950's.

I Googled "Nydar Gun Sight" and SKS Boards came up with a complete description of it. It hit the civilian market in 1947 was a developed from the sight used on fighter planes and was adjusted to the cone of machine gun or cannon fire.

I wish that my still had mine. as it would have been adaptable to a SKS but perhaps not very practical


Nydar shotgun sight.circa 1947
« on: July 05, 2008, 05:56:24 PM »
Vintage Nydar blued shotgun sight c.1947. Came with original lens protector, mount, carry case, and adjustment/instructions manual.
These sights are light activated, you get a large outer ring and inner dot that is projected onto the front reflective glass simply by being outside in the existing ambient light. Even on a heavy overcast day, this sight works perfectly!! This is the Model 47 and it is stamped "patent applied for". It was made by the Swain Nelson Company of Glenview, Illinois.

The basis for this sight was taken directly from World War ll. Allied aircraft had similar sights, but using the exact same principal, and shot down many axis war planes using their modified Nydar Sights. The inner dot represents 12" inches at 50 yards, while the outer ring is positioned so that the ring itself is always 24" inches from the inner dot. This makes the Nydar Gun Sight the PERFECT "scatter gun" hunting sight. In fact, as the original brochure explains, all pellets fired at a range of 25 yards was within the outer ring of the Nydar Gun Sight.

The offset sight was just me with the camera, I could not see the rings through the camera lens so I just kept on clicking untill I got a sight picture.
There are adjustments for windage and elevation, the sight is mounted on a base plate and that is able to be manipulated for front to rear and side to side movement, once it is set you lock it down.After that you can remove the sight lens - it is zero'd.
It has to be the Daddy of the red-dot sight, the only difference I can think of is that it does not work in the dark.
If you illuminated the piece (provide light) it would work.
Jagman.

 

[lone-wolf]

That is pretty freakin cool, sof

 

[TeaPot2]

Some more quick detachable options to mount on the same side rail:

side rail made by Tula for SKS

Russian military Red Dot made in Belarus on Tula side rail

POSP 2-6x24 variable magnification made in Belarus on the same rail

Weaver mount on the same rail

 

[davecasey]

anyone know if the built in weaver rail on the tapco t6 is 11mm?

 

[neotekz]

do you have to take the choate mount off to take out the bolt?

 

[cbabes]

Thanks for all your hard work. I noticed you used one of my SKS pictures. I feel famous! LOL

 

[Norton]

Cheek Pad
This Blackhawk cheek pad offers an inexpensive solution for aligning a shooters eye on SKS rifles with optics.
Ties on tight enough and really helps with an optic that sits as high as this Bushnell T-dot.

 

[driver71]

Here's my setup,,I just picked up a red dot and am going to give that a try.

 

[davecasey]

im looking to put a scope on my sks but i would rather not drill the receiver are those receiver cover/scope rings capable of holding zero?
anyone?

 

[lone-wolf]

im looking to put a scope on my sks but i would rather not drill the receiver are those receiver cover/scope rings capable of holding zero?
anyone?

90% of people would say no.

 

[eagl]

bipod????

Here's my setup,,I just picked up a red dot and am going to give that a try.

Which bipod are you using and where did you track it down. The ones around here all screw into/or attach the sling mount
Rob

 

[jt_trouble]

Got some new sights for my SKS.

I have a Williams Firesight up front and a custom rear sight leaf done up my Dave and Neit Arms/Designs.

Sorry for the blur, I couldn't get it to focus right. This is the best pic out of 10 tries ...

 

[kristian55]

Got some new sights for my SKS.

I have a Williams Firesight up front and a custom rear sight leaf done up my Dave and Neit Arms/Designs.

Sorry for the blur, I couldn't get it to focus right. This is the best pic out of 10 tries ...

Hi.
Fiber Optic Site Set befits for SKS-45?
I thought that he can be utillized only for VZ58/858.
Thank you for an answer.

 

[ratherbefishin]

I'd really like to hear how that bipod attached to the bayonet lug works-does it affect the accuracy because its attached to the barrel?

 

[jt_trouble]

Hi.
Fiber Optic Site Set befits for SKS-45?
I thought that he can be utillized only for VZ58/858.
Thank you for an answer.

The ones he sells on his website for the Cz58/858 will not fit onto a SKS. They look the same but they are not. The one he made for me is an actual SKS rear site that he ordered just for the job.