Sticky for Ruger PCC

Canuck44 said:
Nibe at 200 yards you are not going to have a tack driver in your hands. The 9MM bullet has the aeros of a brick. That said, your rounds may not be touching but from a rest a 12" plate should ring loud and clear. While I don't have my Ruger anymore, I do have another carbine where I run the charging handles on both sides. I seldom use the right-side handle, but it is there, and you can't use it if it is not there. BTW my Ruger always locked back after the last round using Glock mags. Mine was the basic model with no aftermarket parts. The latter are nice but I don't think they really are necessary.

Take Care

Bob
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Oh for sure, w/o checking a ballistics calc I expect 1-1/12 ft of drop at 200 yds at least. I'm new to carbines so you may be right on the aftermarket parts...anyway love the gun. Fun times.
 
Nibe said:
Oh for sure, w/o checking a ballistics calc I expect 1-1/12 ft of drop at 200 yds at least. I'm new to carbines so you may be right on the aftermarket parts...anyway love the gun. Fun times.
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36-50 inches depending on velocity according to Chairgun, for popular 9mm loadings.
 
I would like to put a Magpul Backpacker stock on one of my PC9's.
Both have the mlok handguard so I understand I will have to put a standard lock block Part #20 for the Backpacker fore end to fit.
Does anyone no where I can obtain the trigger lock block in Canada or a US supplier who will ship here.
Thanks
 
First guess; ask the Canadian distributor or warranty servicer if you can get the part from them.

Gravel Agency
Big Rock Sports
Korth Group

Heck email Ruger direct and they should point you in the right direction, if not be able to mail you the part directly.
 
I'm reading all this in interest because of a recent buy of mine and not knowing of PCC. One of the 1st statements says it's only available in a 9mm ? I have a Ruger carbine deerfield model in 44 mag. Is that not what you're calling a PCC ?
 
redneckeh said:
I'm reading all this in interest because of a recent buy of mine and not knowing of PCC. One of the 1st statements says it's only available in a 9mm ? I have a Ruger carbine deerfield model in 44 mag. Is that not what you're calling a PCC ?
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The Ruger PCC is a model made by Ruger and is only made in 9MM. Your Ruger is chambered in a pistol caliber but is not the model addressed in this thread.

Take Care

Bob
 
So I did a ton of nosing around with my Sig P320 mags and the OEM Ruger magwell.

With some farting around with a Dremel, a bench vice and some pliers, I managed this:
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Basically ground the notch that engages the Ruger mag into a pin that interfaces with the hole on the front of the Sig P320 magazine:
1ZqPY8j.jpg

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With some bending and trimming, even the bolt hold open on an empty mag works:
yb3DNPy.jpg

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Last but not least, to get a slightly more snug fit in the magwell, I put a shallow bend in the ejector plate:
6jLWGzN.jpg


I haven't range tested it yet, but it's functionally perfect running the bolt with some snap caps. Once I figured out what needed to be done, the whole process took about 30 minutes.
 
gunstock said:
I would like to put a Magpul Backpacker stock on one of my PC9's.
Both have the mlok handguard so I understand I will have to put a standard lock block Part #20 for the Backpacker fore end to fit.
Does anyone no where I can obtain the trigger lock block in Canada or a US supplier who will ship here.
Thanks
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i have back packer on mine now. Its got a really nice feel to it!

I had the base model and was just 3 screws to swap.

It might be just as cheap to just buy the one that comes in the backpack already.
(assuming you sell yours)
 
Jmcc said:
i have back packer on mine now. Its got a really nice feel to it!

I had the base model and was just 3 screws to swap.

It might be just as cheap to just buy the one that comes in the backpack already.
(assuming you sell yours)
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I'm also in the same boat. I have an original and a mlok one. I switched my original to a Midwest Industries handguard and swapped the rearend from the mlok one to the Magpul backpacker stock. Things changed and now I would like to use the whole backpacker stock and ditch the mlok handguard. So I need another original takedown block.

I noticed that MI makes one. https://midwestindustriesinc.com/mi-takedown-pin-conversion-kit-for-ruger-pc-carbine/

Does anyone know if we can get that in Canada? I've emailed RDSC as I've bought other MI stuff from them. Who else can I ask to bring it in for me?
 
Hi all, new PC carbine owner here (first ever firearm). Spent a lot of time researching, and manipulating it. It seems (at least to me) that there is a varying consensus on storing it with the cable lock (action locked back) and this (may) cause issues with spring tension over time. Again, first time firearm owner here, and I realize there are lot of schools on storing, notably some saying cycling is the primary stressor on the spring vs leaving the bolt open being a stressor, some also say action closed and dry-fired (but then it seems i can't engage the safety?) and would have to get a trigger lock?

Anyhow, any insight on on how to keep this in tip top shape in between range visits?

J
 
Shacks said:
Hi all, new PC carbine owner here (first ever firearm). Spent a lot of time researching, and manipulating it. It seems (at least to me) that there is a varying consensus on storing it with the cable lock (action locked back) and this (may) cause issues with spring tension over time. Again, first time firearm owner here, and I realize there are lot of schools on storing, notably some saying cycling is the primary stressor on the spring vs leaving the bolt open being a stressor, some also say action closed and dry-fired (but then it seems i can't engage the safety?) and would have to get a trigger lock?

Anyhow, any insight on on how to keep this in tip top shape in between range visits?

J
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If you're worrying about the spring losing strength by storing with bolt locked back, just lock it back, put in your cable lock, then gently release the bolt onto the cable. Wouldn't worry too much about a $10 cable lock, and that will relieve any anxiety about tensioning the spring for most of the time it's sitting in the safe or whatever.

And yes, cycled springs lose their springiness over time. Every time you load or unload a magazine you fatigue the steel spring, shortening its lifespan just a little. Storing compressed is perhaps marginally more fatiguing for a spring, as in fully loaded magazines being stored, but nowhere nearly on the scale of cycling them full and empty. You might see some adhesion between follower and spring against magazine walls at times, depending on materials used and fit of the parts and lubricants used (if any), but that should work free with firing off one magazine, or perhaps cleaning the guts if some sort of corrosion or hardened lubricant is the problem. Same with the bolt spring. Keep things clean and don't worry about it. If you want a better spring, there are options on the market, such as the Strike Industries flatwire AR spring which serves very, very nicely in my 9mm TNW ASR, a huge improvement over the factory spring.
 
Shacks said:
Anyhow, any insight on on how to keep this in tip top shape in between range visits?

J
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I would get a $12 trigger lock from Canadian tire or Amazon. I never use a cable lock in anything except for a couple revolvers without trigger guards (NAA sidewinder)

Personally, I prefer to keep my action closed so dust doesn’t get in and the lube doesn’t try out.
 
As been said, just gobuy a trigger lock. FYI there are all kinds of stories about guys who haver found WW1 1911 mags where they have been left fully loaded for 70 years or more and worked perfectly. How many times do you change your springs in your car or truck. Leaving your gun locked back won't weaken the spring for all practical purposes if you locked in back and left it locked back for a year or more or longer. If you store your PCC in a locked metal gun cabinet you need not put a trigger or cable lock on it.

Take Care
Bob
 
Shacks said:
Hi all, new PC carbine owner here (first ever firearm). Spent a lot of time researching, and manipulating it. It seems (at least to me) that there is a varying consensus on storing it with the cable lock (action locked back) and this (may) cause issues with spring tension over time. Again, first time firearm owner here, and I realize there are lot of schools on storing, notably some saying cycling is the primary stressor on the spring vs leaving the bolt open being a stressor, some also say action closed and dry-fired (but then it seems i can't engage the safety?) and would have to get a trigger lock?

Anyhow, any insight on on how to keep this in tip top shape in between range visits?

J
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why would you need a cable or trigger lock? it's not required for transport, being non restricted just in a case or cover and for storage toss it in a locked gun cabinet or safe and its fine
 
contact148 said:
why would you need a cable or trigger lock? it's not required for transport, being non restricted just in a case or cover and for storage toss it in a locked gun cabinet or safe and its fine
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Cable lock came with the rifle, according to the manufacturers spec that's the recommended way to store it, until i have a safe it's just an added measure. will probably go with a trigger combo lock, thanks all for the suggestions.
 
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