The M1 Garand Build Thread

Today was a productive day !

- Screwed the barrel (thank god for the 6ft steel tube I had...) was easier then I though it would be my barrel was close to 30 degree off.

- Reamed the chamber to spec. Took a while (I am a bit OCD)

- Started fitting the wood stock

- Refinished gas cylinder + lock with Caswell SS Blackener (nasty stuff)

Noticed I ordered a M14 front sight instead of an M1 one...

Here's how it sits right now. (Should work on it again tomorrow)

tvu2.jpg
 
Yikes - if you breaker-bar'd the barrel from 30 degrees, you got lucky that you didn't crack the receiver ring or bend the barrel.

Sometimes a lathe is the right answer. Good for you to know for next time.
 
Claven2 said:
Yikes - if you breaker-bar'd the barrel from 30 degrees, you got lucky that you didn't crack the receiver ring or bend the barrel.

Sometimes a lathe is the right answer. Good for you to know for next time.
Click to expand...

Was actually a bit under 30deg. I've been able to go down to 7-8deg off with the 18in Crescent wrench.

With the 6ft bar it hasn't needed much force at all.
The finish on those receiver is real tough. Haven't even used any masking tape and got no rubbing marks at all from the wrench on the finish. :)
 
15 deg offset is the max recommended starting position for new barrels, but you never know how it will go until you try it. I've always held close to that parameter, but did install a new Criterion barrel that was 22 deg off index to start. It went on with the normal degree of effort. Funnily enough, the toughest one that I've installed to date was 15 deg off, a NOS SA49 barrel on a SA receiver. I had to put an extension on the wrench to get it into index. The moly barrel paste/anti-seize compound is a big help on the threads and receiver face. Sometimes it's worth backing off a bit on the wrench and then advancing it again until you get the barrel into final index.

One well known ex-USMC armorer states that he likes 25 deg of offset on a NOS GI barrel. He's done a lot more M1/M14 barrel installs than I have, so I wouldn't argue with him. The Kulek book, which gives pretty comprehensive advice on assembling a Garand, states that a NOS barrel can be installed if it is anywhere from the 7 to 8 o'clock starting position (that translates into 30 to 60 degrees !!!!) with the preferred starting position being at 7:30 or 45 deg!!!. That is waaaay too far off IMHO, and it totally contradicts both the US Army tech manual and the Kuhnhausen Shop manual which I accept as the definitive references. I'm sure not willing to gamble the cost of a new barrel or receiver to try it that way. When installing a NOS M1903 Springfield barrel, which uses the same type of threads as the Garand, I like to have them start in the 17/18 deg hand tight position.

How did you prep the gas cyl and lock before treating them with the Caswell's blackener and how did you apply it, by painting it on or by immersion in solution ? Did you use the Caswells @ full strength or diluted?
 
purple said:
How did you prep the gas cyl and lock before treating them with the Caswell's blackener and how did you apply it, by painting it on or by immersion in solution ? Did you use the Caswells @ full strength or diluted?
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I sandblasted the parts and used the SS blackener at full strength but wiping it on the parts with a sponge brush. It turned the parts a greyish color. Definately not black like stock.
If you want me to do yours I can for a small fee. I barely used my 8oz bottle, it took very little to do it.

I oiled the barrel threads + receiver face a bit before installing. Might be the reason it went on ''easy''. Anything over 30deg index will indeed be hell to install.

My trigger group seems to fit the boyds stock perfect and action fits nice and tight. First dry-fire tonight lol !
 
I've been using the Caswell's myself for a few yrs. It seems to work best on the locks and gas glugs and not as well on the larger area of the gas cylinder. I clean up the stainless steel to remove all old finish, de-grease and then immerse in a solution of Caswells and distilled water. Placing a stripped steel nail in the solution seems to work like a catalyst to get a deeper, more original color.

A baked on finish using high temp flat black automotive cylinder head paint seems to work well to refinish the gas cylinders.
 
I've been looking into powder coating for another project, wondering if it would work well on a gas cylinder, any thoughts?
 
Hey guys !

I have a little bug...

I bought a bolt from redfile nov 20... Shipped nov 29.... I sent a email to ask for tracking number a week ago..
I also bought a brand new box of follower rods in the same time but from antartics2... Sent a email too....

I received answer from both within 5 days...... The problem its their answer : its EXACTLY the SAME tracking number... (Hold by custom since 40 days.....)

I dont know what to do... Thats not looking good...

Is it because the tracking change for a special tracking number when its hold by custom. ,?!
 
Duff350 said:
Hey guys !

I have a little bug...

I bought a bolt from redfile nov 20... Shipped nov 29.... I sent a email to ask for tracking number a week ago..
I also bought a brand new box of follower rods in the same time but from antartics2... Sent a email too....

I received answer from both within 5 days...... The problem its their answer : its EXACTLY the SAME tracking number... (Hold by custom since 40 days.....)

I dont know what to do... Thats not looking good...

Is it because the tracking change for a special tracking number when its hold by custom. ,?!
Click to expand...

Same thing happened with my first bolt. Stuck since 2 months. I haven't bothered to call again since I got my second bolt.

Try to give them a call and keep us updated.
 
john@ said:
I've been looking into powder coating for another project, wondering if it would work well on a gas cylinder, any thoughts?
Click to expand...

It should work OK and is worth a try. Be careful to plug the cylinder so there is no build up of the coating in the bore and gas port and on the splines. Try it and report back. It is a newer technology than bake on paint or stainless blackening by chemical action. I wonder how durable it will be versus powder solvents.
 
This thread has some really good information in it!!! I really appreciate the members with experience sharing it with the rest of us. I have read this thread front to back a few times.

I have all the recommended books on order & I am slowly collecting parts & tools to build up several rifles. I hope to get one done this year and several others as time goes on.

Here is a picture of all the parts I have so far acquired.
M1GarandPartssofarJan112013_zps8bf1a025.jpg
 
Claven2 said:
The end with the half-moon cuts for the spacer ears is the back side. The front is narrower a bit, they are slightly tapered.
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I think both ends have half-moon cuts on mine, unless we are not talking about the same thing.

The front part would have way to much wood on the trunnion (which can be removed). Correct ?
 
I see some BM bits in there... ...curious if you intend to do a full out Garand based version.
R

mileageman said:
This thread has some really good information in it!!! I really appreciate the members with experience sharing it with the rest of us. I have read this thread front to back a few times.

I have all the recommended books on order & I am slowly collecting parts & tools to build up several rifles. I hope to get one done this year and several others as time goes on.

Here is a picture of all the parts I have so far acquired.
M1GarandPartssofarJan112013_zps8bf1a025.jpg
Click to expand...
 
I ordered from Sarco over a month ago and have given up on them! If it comes fine, if it doesn't I have other projects on the go. I think they are running out of parts. The condition of the parts that you receive, speaks for itself. Gunpartscorp is the same at present. Districorp had complete m1's as parts gun because of the wood and barrels for $40.00. I bought these and their danish parts. Best deal for parts ever back in the day. I got a winchester with a 1967 winchester barrel in great condition from them. Found wood and added Danish parts, made a nice gun.
 
That is the plan:D I was wondering if someone was going to pickup on some of the unusual parts in the picture. I have manage to source just about everything, I have a few more parts in transit currently. I can only order stuff as my monthly budget allows, this is a long term project. The hard to get parts are going to be bolts (Ordered from Sarco for 6 weeks now, but no news), pinned magazines & barrels.

robin2y said:
I see some BM bits in there... ...curious if you intend to do a full out Garand based version.
R
Click to expand...
 
I'd have thought operating rods for the BM59 would be tougher. Bolts are easy, you are just not ordering from the right place. Even the CGN EE has inexpensive bolts available.
 
The BM59 break will require some major fitting as it is not a m1garand transfer part . The Americans have made conversion parts to make some of the BM 59 accessories work on the M1 rifle. Other BM59 parts can be used. But, with Border Services looking at parts, BM59 parts could be an issue, because it is an FA.
 
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