The SL8 Mods, Info and FAQ Thread

once again im not sure if im posting this in the right place...but here it goes

does anybody have any experience with ACOG's sitting on top of an SL8/G36?

I plan on doing a SL8-4 to G36...well sorta.

I'm not touching the front end or the top rail just the rear,(wanna keep the non-restricted status and would like to save $$$ by keeping the SL8-4 top rail) so FBI lower housing, stock block an a G36c stock with cheek rest...

How do you all think an ACOG 3.5x or 4X would fit on that, as far as cheek weld goes? or will I be totally out of whack. and which mounts would be best for that set up?

Does anybody have any experience with ACOG's on SL8/G36? or know anyone who has that setup?

any advice will be helpful.
 
I'm currently in the G36 mod process. I tried a TA31F with the LaRue mount I had on one of my ARs on the plain SL8-4. I found that the LaRue mount does not sight tight on the plastic rail and that I can't get a good cheek weld with the one spacer that the SL8 cheek rest came with.

I don't know how it'll work with the folding stock, but my guess is that the ACOG will sit too high with its current mount.
 
Thats kinda what i thought, too bad.
how do you like the ACOG TA31F? thats the exact model i wanted to get.
let me know if you find a solid way to mount that ACOG on the SL8/G36
 
My SL8-5 to G36k conversion is done! Today I picked up the barrel wrenches and mandrels (all 10 of them) and immediately swapped the barrels.
Its all I hoped it would be, my Rainbow Six gun, hahaha.

I added a Vortex SPARC for now. I have a Vortex Viper PST 1-4x24 on the way.
Magpul vertical grip and some XTM panels.
Big thanks to Josef at Dlask Arms; I asked if he could possibly make me a PWS 556 Compensator with the HK 15x1 RH thread. I was expecting to pay a fortune, or get a no can do, but by some miracle he made 5 a while ago and only sold 1. I've had his PWS copy on my AR15 for a while now and have nothing but good things to say about it, oh and it’s a little loud, haha. I can’t wait to fire this baby, maybe this weekend.

And the pictures

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Any recommendations on gunsmiths that have experience threading sl8 barrels ?
I'd like to put a flash hider on my sl8, this pic was taken during the day !

SANY0004-3.jpg
 
ntm said:
Any recommendations on gunsmiths that have experience threading sl8 barrels ?
I'd like to put a flash hider on my sl8, this pic was taken during the day !

SANY0004-3.jpg
Click to expand...

It all depends where you live, however any competant gunsmith can thread it for you.

There are also kit from Brownells that allow you to align and thread it yourself but that would require a lathe to take down some of the 'meat' first so without you're still better off with a local smith.

If you can comment on what area are you in you might get some regional or even local feedback from other nutz.
 
Question for SL8 experts:
What is the purpose of the Locking lever (214613) and the little catch (219095) at the end of it? I've built an FBI lower with the SL8 trigger parts and I've noticed that the catch of the locking lever doesn't touch the hammer at all when it's cocked (although it seems that they may be related).

Any idea???
 
zykopat said:
Question for SL8 experts:
What is the purpose of the Locking lever (214613) and the little catch (219095) at the end of it? I've built an FBI lower with the SL8 trigger parts and I've noticed that the catch of the locking lever doesn't touch the hammer at all when it's cocked (although it seems that they may be related).

Any idea???
Click to expand...

It depends who you ask. My personal opinion (and many trustworthy members of HK Pro) is that it only serves as a way to make the trigger pull lighter by taking some of the pressure off the hammer and sear conact point when set on "Fire". On "Safe" mode it lifts up and there is no contact with the hammer so there is more pressure on the hammer and sear contact so there is more force required for the hammer to slip off if bumped or dropped. (This is for S,F SL8 FCG only. HK G36 burst packs are a bit different)


I have hade this argument with HK USA on their forum. They say it prevents the gun from shooting full auto. I said no way and explained why in detail. None of the people who said I was wrong hade ever even seen an SL8 fire control group, including the HK rep. :mad: He was going by what he was told.

If soneone can prove me wrong I'd like to hear it! You will actually have to explain the workings if the FCG. Because the HK rep said so is not proof in this case. Here is a link to the discussion on HK pro. There is a link to the HK USA forum in the first post.
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-long-gun-talk/124171-i-disagree-hk-customer-service-about-locking-lever.html
 
CNADNSL8-5 said:
It depends who you ask. My personal opinion (and many trustworthy members of HK Pro) is that it only serves as a way to make the trigger pull lighter by taking some of the pressure off the hammer
Click to expand...

Thanks Mark (read the entire thread) . But how does it take pressure off the hammer? As I wrote, the catch on the locking lever doesn't come in contact with the hammer notche(s). (The hole I drilled in the FBI lower for the locking lever pin is a bit offset -low- on one side). I didn't notice before I took the SL8 lower internals out, but does the locking lever's catch come in contact with the hammer when it's cocked??
 
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