10/22 build advice

My current prs rimfire retains all the factory parts in the action/bottom... just changed the barrel, and stock. Bedded properly and it runs great.

I have tuned up the factory trigger which some may not want/be able to do... otherwise, this and the many others we got a couple of years back were surprisingly well made. We have built a few off these factory rifles without needing to change out the factory parts... except barrel and stock.

Jerry

Is fitting a new barrel to a stock receiver something the average Joe can do? I have a 10/22 anniversary edition (that runs and shoots well) and I’d like to tease more accuracy out of it.
 
Is fitting a new barrel to a stock receiver something the average Joe can do? I have a 10/22 anniversary edition (that runs and shoots well) and I’d like to tease more accuracy out of it.

If you can operate an allen wrench.... you can install a 10/22 barrel.

NOTE.. some match barrel tenons are slightly larger vs factory so you may need to do light fitting to make it all go together. A bit of fine sandpaper on the tenon for a snug fit..

The 10/22 is the lego of firearms

Jerry
 
I mean, I don't know #### about #### about precision 22 shooting, but isn't one of the major downfalls of the 10/22 platform the barrel wedge dealie? Wouldn't starting with something like a Grey Birch Fusion system go a ways to set you up for success if your goal was repeatable accuracy?

Been building 10/22s for a long time and have never had an issue with the factory barrel wedge... not really sure where this came from but I am sure Ruger made some POS parts in their history.

proper bedding is something that may get overlooked or not done properly and that will definitely lead to irratic results with the 10/22. Same goes for proper barrel specs AND matching that with quality match ammo.

All our current competition 10/22s use factory actions

Jerry
 
Okay Jerry this is good to know and a start .
Leavenworth
The key to any 10/22 is does it run 100% in its current form? Some don't... so these you need to replace parts or just not use. If you feel confident that you can machine gun HV bulk ammo from all your mags, then the action/bolt and trigger are working as intended. Now we add what is needed for accuracy and then bed into a stock so it will actually be accurate.

simple test. I use CCI blaser cause it is easy to get but better Fed HV works too. grab all your 10rds mags... empty them as fast as you can pull the trigger. If it misfeeds, ensures it is just a mag problem... if it does that with all mags (especially factory mags), move to another action. that is all you need from the action and bottom unit.

Trigger pull weight... aftermarket can resolve or you can tune up the factory parts. It will never be a super light trigger but some kits suggest they can get quite light. I am just concerned that it is around 2lbs and breaks crisply/repeatably.

Keep things simple

View attachment 629248

Distance was actually 100m... not bad at all

Jerry
 
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Just as a little budget exercise. Say I have $500 to put into a stock 10/22, what would be the best bang for the buck for accurisation? (not including optics, that would be separate).
 
proper spec match barrel is the best way to improve performance... but you must use quality match ammo to suit. Can offer the widest range of barrel specs

proper bedding is the next most important thing

Jerry
 
proper spec match barrel is the best way to improve performance... but you must use quality match ammo to suit. Can offer the widest range of barrel specs

proper bedding is the next most important thing

Jerry

Thanks Jerry. Is there a midrange type of chamber that would improve things a fair bit but not limit me to only the highest spec ammo? I’m still reading things so I have a basic understanding that the stock sporter chamber is quite “loose” but have no idea what the range of options is. I keep reading about a “bentz” chamber?
 
Theres a little more to installing an aftermarket quality barrel than the ability to use an allen wrench. Many have oversized tennons for a reason. Ruger receivers are mass produced and the tolerances are wide to be polite. Heat the receiver and freeze the barrel. This will be ur best friend and produce a very snug fit which will aid in accuracy. Make sure the extractor slot is properly aligned or youll run into problems. Put an anti gaulling compound like Never Seize on the tennon and the receiver. Make sure the barrel is fully seated into the receiver. If your not fairly handy find someone who is, or just send ur gun to Jerry and have him do it properly. He can make it shoot
 
Theres a little more to installing an aftermarket quality barrel than the ability to use an allen wrench. Many have oversized tennons for a reason. Ruger receivers are mass produced and the tolerances are wide to be polite. Heat the receiver and freeze the barrel. This will be ur best friend and produce a very snug fit which will aid in accuracy. Make sure the extractor slot is properly aligned or youll run into problems. Put an anti gaulling compound like Never Seize on the tennon and the receiver. Make sure the barrel is fully seated into the receiver. If your not fairly handy find someone who is, or just send ur gun to Jerry and have him do it properly. He can make it shoot

Wish this forum had a like button.
 
Just to add to this…I already have a Kidd trigger in the rifle.

Barrel. If for Rimfire PRS, a chassis helps a lot too. Not to diminish Jerry’s contribution, but he is already a world class shooter so he can do things with less that optimal setups that others may struggle to duplicate.
 
Barrel. If for Rimfire PRS, a chassis helps a lot too. Not to diminish Jerry’s contribution, but he is already a world class shooter so he can do things with less that optimal setups that others may struggle to duplicate.

If you buy a Kidd trigger, youll never regret it,other than the price, but it will diminish as soon as you use it the first time. If you have any doubt, I will send you one to try. Ill even pay the shipping there and you on the return. I have both single and two stage. The best upgrade there is. PM me and we can discuss. My name is Chris and I know yours is Emerson. HAHA now thats funny. Im old but do remember pal
 
To the OP and whomever else my have an interest.

I have been immersed in the shooting sports my entire life. If I have learned anything in that time it is that there is ALWAYS someone who knows more than I do. There is also ALWAYS someone who THINKS they know more than anyone. My advice is to keep that in mind when seeking advice!

When I first began down the path ( which soon became a super highway! ) of building a 10/22 derivative "Longstrup" was one of the first to make suggestions and advice regarding the project. It was my pleasure and good fortune to actually meet the man in person a short time ago. Should you choose to look up his former postings you will find that he can be opinionated and maybe just a tad cantankerous ! The opinions come from hardcore experience not from a continuous flow of "webinars" on Ytube. The "Cantankerous"? Well he has admitted to getting Old! ( comes with the territory ).

You will also find him to be one of the most genuine and generous individuals your ever apt to come across. His depth on knowledge regarding the shooting sports is impressive and as it specifically relates to building high performance .22 semi autos he has become my go to reference. His advice regarding Kidd triggers is the result of having built about a dozen accuracy oriented 10/22s. Yes, the "Guru" of 10/22 cost me over $500 listening to him and his trigger preferences but if I look at the big picture I actually saved money in the end game.

Good Luck with your venture.
dgb
 
If you buy a Kidd trigger, youll never regret it,other than the price, but it will diminish as soon as you use it the first time. If you have any doubt, I will send you one to try. Ill even pay the shipping there and you on the return. I have both single and two stage. The best upgrade there is. PM me and we can discuss. My name is Chris and I know yours is Emerson. HAHA now thats funny. Im old but do remember pal

For having both single and two stage Kidd triggers, the 2 stage worth it but the single stage not so much imo.
If single stage is what you want, I had a factory Ruger unit that i sent in the States at Brimstone and it was a damn good trigger.
It was nearly as good as the Kidd for half the price.

The 2 stage is really something !
 
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If you buy a Kidd trigger, youll never regret it,other than the price, but it will diminish as soon as you use it the first time. If you have any doubt, I will send you one to try. Ill even pay the shipping there and you on the return. I have both single and two stage. The best upgrade there is. PM me and we can discuss. My name is Chris and I know yours is Emerson. HAHA now thats funny. Im old but do remember pal

Oh, I have no doubt it’s worth it. I’m still on the fence about going all in on a 10/22 build. A couple cases of Eley Match/Tennex, a purpose built custom bolt 22, a bunch of steel and run local matches….
 
For having both single and two stage Kidd triggers, the 2 stage worth it but the single stage not so much imo.
If single stage is what you want, I had a factory Ruger unit that i sent in the States at Brimstone and it was a damn good trigger.
It was nearly as good as the Kidd for half the price.

The 2 stage is really something !

I decided on the Kidd trigger. Is the two stage easy to get used to? I have a lot of single stage triggers set in oz for my bolt guns, my ars are all timney and triggertech single.. no experience with a 2 but that seems to be the lightest available for the 10/22. Do you need to reset both stages after the shot?
 
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