SR22 Rifle Questions

This? -> Sturm Ruger, Ruger, 10/22 Carbine ... 35108.18 (.22LR/8.5")

Since the SR-22 is the same Ruger 10/22 with the Nordic Chassis, the FRT should also be the same. Please correct if I'm mistaken.



Anyone know the FRT number for the SR-22 rifle? At my range, people mistake it from distance to be an AR "style". Just want to know what the FRT number is in case police or a Conservation officer asks, so I can be prepared. You know it does look pretty "scary and evil" for a .22! :)
 
Here's another short SR22 build for your reference...
DLASK 8" quad rail hand guard and a DLASK 12.5" Bull Barrel, sport chamber, threaded muzzle, "Tacticool 22" barrel shroud, "Iron Eagle Tactical" brush guard...
Fully collapsed, she's 27' OAL but the barrel shroud and "Tactical Link" quick link on the stock make it 27.25" OAL
I don't have a lot of experience with other barrels... but this one eats anything I give her... AE .22 bulk, Fed 555, WIN M22...
...and at 50 yards, she puts a stream of lead wherever I want. :)
NCStar 3-9x42 mildot... came with the original rifle and I can't complain... works great for this.


 
Dlask SR-22 Contour 12.5 inch and custom length barrels now available!

As you say, a 12" barrel would be perfect, or a 10" with a 2"-3" flash hider.

My preference was for a 10" barrel and a XB5 Flashhider/Muzzle brake combination which would have protruded about 1-2" past the fore end. However no 10" barrels were available. I decided to go with an 8" and a fake suppressor to achieve the same +/- overall length. I may switch to a 10" when they become available.


Heads up! They just hit the site! Mine were shipped today... bought a 12.5 inch for $179 and also had them cut one down (and thread) to 10.5 inches for $219, shipping was $15, btw they do the bluing of the barrel after they cut it down so it is truly custom! Order yours today!

Dlask SPORTER SR 22 .22LR 12.5” Barrel (.750" SR-22 factory contour)

 
SR-22Chassis001_zpsd91930fc.jpg

SR-22Chassis002_zps96e2c1b5.jpg


So I am rather annoyed with the design of the SR-22 Clamshell Chassis, seems to me that the 2 front teeth of the receiver should be ground down so it could slip in and out of the lower part of the chassis without removing the 4 tiny screws and the top part of the chassis from the receiver. I mean as it stands you have to move your sights, scope, dot, etc to take the tiny screws out and you will have to sight the gun in again every time you clean it... Am I missing something here?

Has anyone here either ground down the 2 teeth on the receiver or notched the chassis slightly with a Dremel tool to get it to clear while the top part of the chassis is still mounted to the receiver? Or do I just have a poorly designed or out of spec chassis/receiver? I mean, it's so close to coming apart, and the take down screw does that job of holding it tight to the receiver anyway.
 
SR-22Chassis001_zpsd91930fc.jpg

SR-22Chassis002_zps96e2c1b5.jpg


So I am rather annoyed with the design of the SR-22 Clamshell Chassis, seems to me that the 2 front teeth of the receiver should be ground down so it could slip in and out of the lower part of the chassis without removing the 4 tiny screws and the top part of the chassis from the receiver. I mean as it stands you have to move your sights, scope, dot, etc to take the tiny screws out and you will have to sight the gun in again every time you clean it... Am I missing something here?

Has anyone here either ground down the 2 teeth on the receiver or notched the chassis slightly with a Dremel tool to get it to clear while the top part of the chassis is still mounted to the receiver? Or do I just have a poorly designed or out of spec chassis/receiver? I mean, it's so close to coming apart, and the take down screw does that job of holding it tight to the receiver anyway.

Mine was at first but with a little bit of a tug came apart but no problems now.
 

So I am rather annoyed with the design of the SR-22 Clamshell Chassis, seems to me that the 2 front teeth of the receiver should be ground down so it could slip in and out of the lower part of the chassis without removing the 4 tiny screws and the top part of the chassis from the receiver. I mean as it stands you have to move your sights, scope, dot, etc to take the tiny screws out and you will have to sight the gun in again every time you clean it... Am I missing something here?

Has anyone here either ground down the 2 teeth on the receiver or notched the chassis slightly with a Dremel tool to get it to clear while the top part of the chassis is still mounted to the receiver? Or do I just have a poorly designed or out of spec chassis/receiver? I mean, it's so close to coming apart, and the take down screw does that job of holding it tight to the receiver anyway.[/QUOTE]

Never grind down [B]anything[/B] on your receiver!
Dremel your stock or take a hair dryer or heat gun and soften up the stock material (go easy and be patient) then fit the receiver while it's pliable and let them "mold" together.
 
Never grind down anything on your receiver!
Dremel your stock or take a hair dryer or heat gun and soften up the stock material (go easy and be patient) then fit the receiver while it's pliable and let them "mold" together.

Thanks for the advice, I will try and get hold of a heat gun... Just wondering what harm filing 2mm off the end tips of the receiver would do, is your comment from a questionable legal standpoint of some kind?
 
No problem...
Filing 2mm may not do anything, but it's just an area of any rifle I would avoid doing very little "modification" too. ;)
Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
 
CollectingSR-22Parts_zps17a2ebc0.jpg


Update: Still collecting parts... longest wait for items has been for the 2 handguards... One is due in next week (8 week wait) while the other was caught up in a botched import from Irunguns this month... it's in Canada but still no eta when they plan to ship it to me... so frustrating.

Good news is the 5 Battledyne mags I preordered are in the mail, so won't be long till I have 2 functional and complete tack drivers... my build costs are above $3,500 but I already sold the take off's (wood stock, 10/22 barrel, SR-22 barrel, SR-22 hand guard, etc) so who knows what the final number will be. I will post a parts list and breakdown at some point.

Happy Shooting in the New Year to All! (I just bought 2 new pistols so very happy for me!)
 
Considering a second configuration for my SR-22

This is how it is now:
IMG_6224_zps38b3eaa3.jpg

But while I was reassembling it after cleaning, it occurred to me that with just a different front adapter and hand guard, I could reverse the fake suppressor and use it as a barrel shroud and make a completely different configuration with a 26.25" o/a length. I mocked it up, and this is the general idea:
IMG_6223_zpsc10bf70d.jpg


So the question is: Can I buy a second front adapter (the part that attaches with two screws to the lower receiver cover, shown attached to the separate stock hand guard in this pic), and if so where from? and what hand guard would work? any suggestions? Just to clarify, the idea is to be able to switch back and forth between the 2 configurations, so I want to keep the original adapter hand guard and AFG as well.
Cheers
TEG
 
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So the question is: Can I buy a second front adapter (the part that attaches with two screws to the lower receiver cover, shown attached to the separate stock hand guard in this pic, and what hand guard would work? any suggestions?
Cheers
TEG

You are basically looking to build the same rifle I just did which is 90% complete, it would have been complete months ago if not for the absent hand guard (which I ordered 8 weeks ago with a promise of 4-8 weeks lead time)... so be prepared to wait a while...

Why not just use the same part and buy a second hand guard? I mean it unscrews... well... Er... with some effort....

They don't sell that part separately, but Iron Eagle Tactical will ship you a new complete Nordic SR-22 chassis (for $170 plus shipping) seen at Iron Eagle Tactical and click on Nordic Components link it's on page 2 item # 190

Anyway you want the hand guard gcdavidson is using (below) which I posted in post 74... his was a 4" Ultimate Arms Gear hand guard seen HERE (but completely unavailable to Canada apart from walking it across the line) where mine is the same part from DPMS (Defense Procurement Manufacturing Services) called the Kitty Kat Free Float Tube seen HERE... if you get it before me that would be, well, awful...

 
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Why not just use the same part and buy a second hand guard? I mean it unscrews... well... Er... with some effort....

My idea was that since I have to take those 2 long screws out to disassemble the rifle for cleaning anyway, why not have a second quick change for end? If I can't buy the adapter, then your suggestion is probably the most practical, but I will probably not go that route after reading how hard it is to take the stock hand guard off without damaging it and I thing I would have to take off the top rail as well :(
I guess I could buy the entire Nordic assembly and try to sell the upper and lower covers as spare parts, but that sounds like an expensive option.

Anyway you want the hand guard gcdavidson is using (below) which I posted in post 74... his was a 4" Ultimate Arms Gear hand guard seen HERE (but completely unavailable to Canada apart from walking it across the line) where mine is the same part from DPMS (Defense Procurement Manufacturing Services) called the Kitty Kat Free Float Tube seen HERE... if you get it before me that would be, well, awful...

Thanks for that. It looks like the right hand guard for my use, but are there no other 4" ones that are readily available?

Cheers
TEG
 
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I will probably not go that route after reading how hard it is to take the stock hand guard off without damaging it...

Actually I should correct my original post about that... I should have said that the hand guard came right off the barrel nut no problem, and probably didn't need heat to even get the indexing ring to move, just slide a piece of dowelling into the holes and grip the other part (the part with 2 screws that you are looking for separately) in a vice and twist the rod. Off it goes.

What was difficult and required heat was removing the barrel nut from that part of the chassis in the vice, and in the end they do make a tool for that called a barrel nut wrench (Brownells sells them for $15). I damaged mine but didn't really have to if I started with the right tool or used the handle end of a master-craft wrench to slip into the two notches and twist in the first place, it came right off with a little heat applied with the torch.

BTW Iron Eagle Tactical sells the Nordic AR Barrel Nut with Lock Ring under their Nordic Components link (last page) for $25 if you wreck yours completely so no big deal.

I guess I could buy the entire Nordic assembly and try to sell the upper and lower covers as spare parts, but that sounds like an expensive option.

There is zero market for the other parts by themselves, not a good option...


...are there no other 4" ones that are readily available?

There may be, but not many round as such, there are quad rail 4 inch ones for sure, usually for airsoft...

http://www.hical.ca/apps/webstore/products/show/3120524
 
There may be, but not many round as such, there are quad rail 4 inch ones for sure, usually for airsoft...

http://www.hical.ca/apps/webstore/products/show/3120524

I found this:
$_3.JPG

For $32 and free shipping on eBay (and they ship to Canada) but without the adapter, I have no use for it. I have sent an e-mail to Iron Eagle to ask if they happen to have an adapter kicking around that they could sell me. I must admit I prefer the smooth hand guard like you are getting and on dcdavidson's build.
 
I found this:
$_3.JPG

For $32 and free shipping on eBay (and they ship to Canada) but without the adapter, I have no use for it. I have sent an e-mail to Iron Eagle to ask if they happen to have an adapter kicking around that they could sell me. I must admit I prefer the smooth hand guard like you are getting and on dcdavidson's build.

Well I paid $80 after shipping for the 4 inch Kitty Kat but the real problem is sourcing it without several months going by...

Anyway the one you posted has a barrel nut by the looks of it, if it's a standard AR barrel nut you could unscrew your handguard and screw the shorter one on the existing barrel nut you already have without removing it from the chassis nut (the 'adapter').

That looks decent for the money... it's definitely going to be cheaper construction though cause it's likely made for airsoft, but these are just 22's so it's up to you what route you go.
 
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