Best Mauser 98 Receiver

Chamber issues or something else? Trigger can be a real challenge to set up.

No, so far the machining on the bolt was sloppy so half the time I cycled the action the bolt would bind when sliding over the extractor. In some cases it would just stop dead. I ended up needing a small washer to reposition the extractor blade to slide through the groove in the lug better and polishing the face of the blade itself to remove a burr. The raceways are atrocious/10 in terms of finishing and will need hours upon hours of cycling to smooth out.

I adjusted the trigger from "complete sh!t" to "slightly less sh!t" while I had the gun on the bench and noticed a crack at the recoil lug so I ended up glassing it with epoxy and fiberglass tape. Reassembled the rifle and sure enough, the safety doesn't want to engage. Pull it back out, "click". Put it back in, clearly it's binding on something.

Lots of problems with Weaver bases, I tried Interarms and Mauser 98 bases and neither worked well, I tried a one-piece base and it didn't work either, and it wasn't until I managed to find a set of Leupold bases for the Mark X that seemed to fit without needing to shim too much. At least the holes look straight.

Rounds don't feed very well, I was using 286gr Norma Alaskan factory loads and they struggled to make it up the feed ramp without being slammed into place. Then I discovered the bolt had been assembled incorrectly, for one there was a burr near the firing pin opening, and two, the bolt sleeve wasn't threaded all the way in so there were no primer strikes.

Hoping for better results tomorrow as I'm bringing it to the range now that all this garbage is taken care of. If it still doesn't work, you will all hear about it!
 
Is there any truth to the statement that zastavas under the Remington and interarms banners are better finished than zastavas? I’ve seen some impressive looking interarms deluxe models with express sights barrel bands and very nice wood
 
No, so far the machining on the bolt was sloppy so half the time I cycled the action the bolt would bind when sliding over the extractor. In some cases it would just stop dead. I ended up needing a small washer to reposition the extractor blade to slide through the groove in the lug better and polishing the face of the blade itself to remove a burr. The raceways are atrocious/10 in terms of finishing and will need hours upon hours of cycling to smooth out.

I adjusted the trigger from "complete sh!t" to "slightly less sh!t" while I had the gun on the bench and noticed a crack at the recoil lug so I ended up glassing it with epoxy and fiberglass tape. Reassembled the rifle and sure enough, the safety doesn't want to engage. Pull it back out, "click". Put it back in, clearly it's binding on something.

Lots of problems with Weaver bases, I tried Interarms and Mauser 98 bases and neither worked well, I tried a one-piece base and it didn't work either, and it wasn't until I managed to find a set of Leupold bases for the Mark X that seemed to fit without needing to shim too much. At least the holes look straight.

Rounds don't feed very well, I was using 286gr Norma Alaskan factory loads and they struggled to make it up the feed ramp without being slammed into place. Then I discovered the bolt had been assembled incorrectly, for one there was a burr near the firing pin opening, and two, the bolt sleeve wasn't threaded all the way in so there were no primer strikes.

Hoping for better results tomorrow as I'm bringing it to the range now that all this garbage is taken care of. If it still doesn't work, you will all hear about it!

Of all those issues, the only one I had was the sticky bolt; and it was not the bolt at all. I put red-lead tracer on the bolt and cycled it to find the tight spot. It was the stock. At the very rear of the receiver, there is a grove in the stock to allow the part of the bolt that engages the trigger to clear. The wood was a bit to high, causing the bolt to bind up in the action. I cut the grove a bit deeper with a file until no more red lead was transferring, and the sticking issue was gone.

Trigger adjustment took me almost an hour, but it was worth it. No over-travel, no takeup, crisp break just under 3 lbs, and the firing pin will not drop no matter how hard I bang the butt on the hardwood floor. Safety works as well.

I have yet to bed the action; got the rifle late and wanted to use it for Groundhogs. Very accurate.

Good luck with yours, and take a look at the stock in the area of the rear tang of the action.
 
Is there any truth to the statement that zastavas under the Remington and interarms banners are better finished than zastavas? I’ve seen some impressive looking interarms deluxe models with express sights barrel bands and very nice wood

The wood to metal fit and finish is likely better, but the metal finish on these new rifles is better than ever I would say.
 
UPDATE for those following my Zastava saga over the past months, it actually fired today! Pushed a round into the mag and pushed the bolt forward, all good. Very boom. Much loud. Cycled the action and it kicked the brass out nicely.

Next test I loaded four cartridges into the mag and cycled through all of them with varied motions, everything seemed fine. All fed from the mag fine, fired fine, and ejected properly with three of the four clearing the picnic table beside me.

Only issues remaining - the stock is made for a giant. At 5'9" most off the shelf guns are basically made for me, but this thing is a stretch. Might need to see what Boyd's has. And man, does this thing mangle brass - the single shot came out fine but the four-in-a-row looks like someone stepped on the case mouths.

Getting there!
 
Don’t worry boys, Granite Mountain in Phoenix Arizona has the solution to all of our problems. No price listed, I’m guessing we are in “ if you have to ask” category




They make some truly massive actions. Love the bolt handles on these, I like a straight handle but the extra long ones often seen on high end customs are not to my tastes

This setup on guns international may be a budget option compared to the GMA actions. Looks pretty slick, no doubt you are paying for the name

 
I recall reading they're over $3K USD for a standard action and you need to have it finished by a gunsmith

Don’t worry boys, Granite Mountain in Phoenix Arizona has the solution to all of our problems. No price listed, I’m guessing we are in “ if you have to ask” category




They make some truly massive actions. Love the bolt handles on these, I like a straight handle but the extra long ones often seen on high end customs are not to my tastes

This setup on guns international may be a budget option compared to the GMA actions. Looks pretty slick, no doubt you are paying for the name

 
I’ve got a ZKK 601 that’s had it’s barrel cut down. The stock was altered. I’ve found a stock for it, I’m thinking of a barrel change. Any suggestions? Sorry if I’m hijacking, there seems to be a fair amount of knowledge reading this thread.

Dane
 
Only issues remaining - the stock is made for a giant. At 5'9" most off the shelf guns are basically made for me, but this thing is a stretch. Might need to see what Boyd's has.
Getting there!

I had my eye on the Richards Microfit Old Classic 102 when I had one of these, might be worth looking at.

Had similar metalwork issues too, took lots of stoning to get it to cycle smoothly.
 
Is the 601 close enough to a Mauser to fit in an aftermarket 98 stock?

There’s a cut down one at great north guns that has a pop up peep. Just needs a front sight and QD mounts to be a “scout rifle”. Pretty sure this build with an IER scope was one of Jeff Coopers originals mentioned in art of the rifle?

Still curious about removing/replacing claw mounts. Lots of cool rifles on the market right now with all the traits I desire but mounts with no matching rings. It’s my understanding they are fit by hand and $$$$?

Pretty modern mounting solution machined into a Satterlee titanium Mauser:

F3-B34699-BA75-4-FD6-AC30-21-D2-BBCECF62.jpg
 
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Is the 601 close enough to a Mauser to fit in an aftermarket 98 stock?

There’s a cut down one at great north guns that has a pop up peep. Just needs a front sight and QD mounts to be a “scout rifle”. Pretty sure this build with an IER scope was one of Jeff Coopers originals mentioned in art of the rifle?

Still curious about removing/replacing claw mounts. Lots of cool rifles on the market right now with all the traits I desire but mounts with no matching rings. It’s my understanding they are fit by hand and $$$$?

Pretty modern mounting solution machined into a Satterlee titanium Mauser:

F3-B34699-BA75-4-FD6-AC30-21-D2-BBCECF62.jpg

You can buy stock claw mounts, and then yes, you must fit them by hand. Slow and careful work. But its not reallly tough, just finicky. - dan
 
I would call Jason at Gunco and ask. If anybody can do it, it's him. Ralf Martini also, but he's about 2 years behind in custom orders and is likely not taking on small projects.

Butterknife bolt handles were being added as a custom touch to factory rifles by gunsmiths in Canada before Jason was ever born and before Ralf ever set his hands on gunsmithing tools, much less immigrated to Canada. I know of at least three of them out there who are still doing it - two of whom are members here - and that's just in BC; nor am I particularly knowledgeable of the gunsmiths out there today. Also in BC, aside from the three gunsmiths I know of, Ralf's former partner Martin Hagn probably would do such a small job, as would Waffen Weber in the interior.

I would not expect this modification to a conventional bolt handle with a ball end should be difficult for a gunsmith who knows his business, nor should the work require so many hours as to make the cost objectionable. The rifles I have chosen to have this small custom modification on have been done at very reasonable cost.

It isn't hard to modify a ball end bolt handle to a butterknife handle, including having the outcome being both pleasing to the eye and the hand, as well as still fitting into the bolt handle cutout in the original stock.

This is an example of the first one I had done like this, sometime back around the end of the 1970's, on a Husqvarna Husky rifle - and those svelte actions are also a fine platform if your desires aren't restricted to something with 'Mauser" roll stamped on it.



For scope clearance, I would avoid butterknife handles if I were you. However, if you must, a cheaper and easier alternative would be to buy a used Brno 21 from Tradex, harvest the M98 butterknife bolt and part the rest out.

I don't know why anyone wanting one should avoid them, unless perhaps they insisted that a butterknife style bolt handle must be of the original designs from the turn of the last century. Mannlicher Steyr is one example of a manufacturer making rifles with that style of bolt handle from at least the 1970s forward that is intended for a rifle that will have a scope mounted. A school/hunting buddy of mine bought one of their rifles in 30/06 back in the 1970's, and they are very fine rifles indeed.

 
It still hold strong to my opinion the very best non-magnum Mauser-type action was the Brno model 21/22 with the double square bridge. For optics, a lowered conventional bolt handle is important, and yes, there are several Smith's that can do it well. Jason just happens to be exceptional. I am a bit of a purist though and would only assault an already Bubba'ed or heavily worn Brno 21.
 
Good gunsmithing isn't cheap. - dan

God knows I learned this the hard way.

Thanks to intersurplus, tradex, true north and Epps good guns can be though. Trying to seperate the wheat from the chaff can be a bit difficult.

I am thinking FN commercial husqvarna or BRNO at this point.

Were the husqvarnas drilled and tapped in the factory? Bubba drill and tap on a gun only seen in pictures is a concern.

Might do a Husqvarna 8x57, change sights safety and bottom metal. Save on a barrel and associated costs.

The AKAH and other German claw mounted 7x64 rifles at Epps and intersurplus are sure tempting though
 
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Butterknife bolt handles were being added as a custom touch to factory rifles by gunsmiths in Canada before Jason was ever born and before Ralf ever set his hands on gunsmithing tools, much less immigrated to Canada. I know of at least three of them out there who are still doing it - two of whom are members here - and that's just in BC; nor am I particularly knowledgeable of the gunsmiths out there today. Also in BC, aside from the three gunsmiths I know of, Ralf's former partner Martin Hagn probably would do such a small job, as would Waffen Weber in the interior.

I would not expect this modification to a conventional bolt handle with a ball end should be difficult for a gunsmith who knows his business, nor should the work require so many hours as to make the cost objectionable. The rifles I have chosen to have this small custom modification on have been done at very reasonable cost.

It isn't hard to modify a ball end bolt handle to a butterknife handle, including having the outcome being both pleasing to the eye and the hand, as well as still fitting into the bolt handle cutout in the original stock.

This is an example of the first one I had done like this, sometime back around the end of the 1970's, on a Husqvarna Husky rifle - and those svelte actions are also a fine platform if your desires aren't restricted to something with 'Mauser" roll stamped on it.





I don't know why anyone wanting one should avoid them, unless perhaps they insisted that a butterknife style bolt handle must be of the original designs from the turn of the last century. Mannlicher Steyr is one example of a manufacturer making rifles with that style of bolt handle from at least the 1970s forward that is intended for a rifle that will have a scope mounted. A school/hunting buddy of mine bought one of their rifles in 30/06 back in the 1970's, and they are very fine rifles indeed.


Nicely done Husqvarna with Conetrols and a modestly proportioned scope!
 
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