Crusader Arms Crypto
- Thread starter MilsurpLover
- Start date
Yup, just searched through the FRT for Crypto, still no FRT for it. So as of 12/10/24 (the day the document was marked valid for) it still has no FRT. Interestingly the only result that came back is for the Bettinsoli Crypto which is an over under shotgun.
A few days ago, I decided to upgrade my firearm setup by installing the Precision Armament Hypertap muzzle brake (5.56; 1/2x28; slim body). Huge shoutout to the gunsmith team at RVS for their expertise and support during this process—they were absolutely fantastic.
Here’s what happened:
When I first purchased my firearm (Crypto), the original flash hider was completely loose. The folks at FOC tightened it properly at the time, but when I later tried to remove it, it was impossible to unscrew on my own. That’s where RVS came in.
When they removed the original flash hider, we hit an unexpected snag. The new muzzle brake only threaded about one to one-and-a-half rotations before completely stopping. We double-checked the specs and thread compatibility—everything matched. It turns out the issue likely stemmed from excessive anodizing on the barrel threads during manufacturing, making it difficult to mount the brake.
Thanks to the skill and persistence of the RVS team, they managed to fully thread both the nut and the brake. However, there’s now a 2.5mm gap between the nut and the brake.
Here’s the big question: Is it safe to shoot in this condition?
Again, a huge thanks to the RVS gunsmiths for their outstanding work on what turned out to be far from a straightforward installation.
Looking forward to your suggestions!
Here’s what happened:
When I first purchased my firearm (Crypto), the original flash hider was completely loose. The folks at FOC tightened it properly at the time, but when I later tried to remove it, it was impossible to unscrew on my own. That’s where RVS came in.
When they removed the original flash hider, we hit an unexpected snag. The new muzzle brake only threaded about one to one-and-a-half rotations before completely stopping. We double-checked the specs and thread compatibility—everything matched. It turns out the issue likely stemmed from excessive anodizing on the barrel threads during manufacturing, making it difficult to mount the brake.
Thanks to the skill and persistence of the RVS team, they managed to fully thread both the nut and the brake. However, there’s now a 2.5mm gap between the nut and the brake.
Here’s the big question: Is it safe to shoot in this condition?
- Should the nut be tightened flush against the brake, or is leaving it as-is acceptable?
- The brake itself is securely tightened and will be extremely difficult to remove.
Again, a huge thanks to the RVS gunsmiths for their outstanding work on what turned out to be far from a straightforward installation.
Looking forward to your suggestions!
Can you add another Jam nut?A few days ago, I decided to upgrade my firearm setup by installing the Precision Armament Hypertap muzzle brake (5.56; 1/2x28; slim body). Huge shoutout to the gunsmith team at RVS for their expertise and support during this process—they were absolutely fantastic.
Here’s what happened:
When I first purchased my firearm (Crypto), the original flash hider was completely loose. The folks at FOC tightened it properly at the time, but when I later tried to remove it, it was impossible to unscrew on my own. That’s where RVS came in.
When they removed the original flash hider, we hit an unexpected snag. The new muzzle brake only threaded about one to one-and-a-half rotations before completely stopping. We double-checked the specs and thread compatibility—everything matched. It turns out the issue likely stemmed from excessive anodizing on the barrel threads during manufacturing, making it difficult to mount the brake.
Thanks to the skill and persistence of the RVS team, they managed to fully thread both the nut and the brake. However, there’s now a 2.5mm gap between the nut and the brake.
Here’s the big question: Is it safe to shoot in this condition?
I’d love to hear your insights and advice!
- Should the nut be tightened flush against the brake, or is leaving it as-is acceptable?
- The brake itself is securely tightened and will be extremely difficult to remove.
Again, a huge thanks to the RVS gunsmiths for their outstanding work on what turned out to be far from a straightforward installation.
Looking forward to your suggestions!
That nut looks twice the size of the jam nut on my Raven
If the RVS gunsmith is so great, why could they not screw it in completely?
Pretty sure it could use another turn, then put washers in between the nut and the barrel. It is just looks and I wouldn't worry about safety.
And why did you chose to put such a big brake on a 223? waste of money and the times I did it, I removed it every time after I went to the range.
You should have spent the money you paid to the smith, buy the equipment needed yourself and rethread it, not very hard to do, unlike making a new one, which is also very possible at home if you are willing to buy the stuff needed.
Pretty sure it could use another turn, then put washers in between the nut and the barrel. It is just looks and I wouldn't worry about safety.
And why did you chose to put such a big brake on a 223? waste of money and the times I did it, I removed it every time after I went to the range.
You should have spent the money you paid to the smith, buy the equipment needed yourself and rethread it, not very hard to do, unlike making a new one, which is also very possible at home if you are willing to buy the stuff needed.
Last edited:
Nice rig! Is that an SP1 barrel? If so, I'd say yeah, go for the triangle handguards and an A1 stock for that 'Nam look, haha.
looks great! Now you just have to get a M7 bayonet
If you plan on ordering another stock set from Brownells, they also have A1 style detachable cary handles (if you want to really get as close as possible). K9PBRN13 is a 10% off brownells coupon too, just reordered mine as the original carry handle got returned to sender due to the CP strike.
Funny you should mention that...
Last edited:
So what are the odds the Crypto skirts through the lib bans entirely? We could (hopefully) be getting an early election late Jan/early Feb, but the next round of OIC is scheduled for late Feb right? Will this just get cancelled and not happen if the Cons. get in beforehand?
Sorry for slightly off topic but just thinking about the short term fate of the Crypto lol.
Sorry for slightly off topic but just thinking about the short term fate of the Crypto lol.
