DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

Yeah those ribs were a PITA.

On the bright side; the skin on my finger tips is peeling away,my callouses are almost gone and I'm finally regaining the feeling in my fingertips...like 3 weeks after assembly.

Yeah I'm a Nancy :p
 
Nice work effects!

The filling goes a lot better if you clamp the file in a vice and work the gun over the file with both hands....
 
Well it will be back to DAC 394 gunsmithing 101 again tomorrow. Just got back from the range for the second time today. Could I leave well enough alone? Could I just plug my eyes and not read about DA. Oh No! Not this guy. I had to try and make it better. Well I believe that the trigger bar is now set so deep that I am getting multiple (more often than not) failure to strike failures. I think that when the hammer comes forward it gets caught by the DA hammer slot or it is rubbing on the hammer and not allowing it to move forward fast enough. The de-cocking is now not functioning either. I will have to get in there tomorrow and have a post mortem. On a side note, the guys at the range this morning were pretty friggin' cruel. Not one comment about "how it would be cool to build a kit." I got a fair bit of "I'm surprised Dlask would sell something like that". "Don't tell Joesef that you brought it here." We had discussed the kit and the price and as I was coping with clearing jams and failure to fire and such, I actually had guys behind me "bidding" on my pistol. "Oh! looks like the bid is now down to $99." as I had another failure to eject. Good fun ribbing is fair game but these guys with their uber expensive Swiss and German engineered, metal finished by three guys in a secret room in France, and hand oiled with oil from the the oil gland at the base of a unicorn's horn, target pistols, really were rather heartless.

However, all will be rosy tomorrow. And I don't dare file out the mag well ridges. That would give me an excuse to spend more money. I am waiting for all of you to dump your Dlask mags for cheap on EE. :rolleyes:
 
effects said:
Well it will be back to DAC 394 gunsmithing 101 again tomorrow. Just got back from the range for the second time today. Could I leave well enough alone? Could I just plug my eyes and not read about DA. Oh No! Not this guy. I had to try and make it better. Well I believe that the trigger bar is now set so deep that I am getting multiple (more often than not) failure to strike failures. I think that when the hammer comes forward it gets caught by the DA hammer slot or it is rubbing on the hammer and not allowing it to move forward fast enough. The de-cocking is now not functioning either. I will have to get in there tomorrow and have a post mortem. On a side note, the guys at the range this morning were pretty friggin' cruel. Not one comment about "how it would be cool to build a kit." I got a fair bit of "I'm surprised Dlask would sell something like that". "Don't tell Joesef that you brought it here." We had discussed the kit and the price and as I was coping with clearing jams and failure to fire and such, I actually had guys behind me "bidding" on my pistol. "Oh! looks like the bid is now down to $99." as I had another failure to eject. Good fun ribbing is fair game but these guys with their uber expensive Swiss and German engineered, metal finished by three guys in a secret room in France, and hand oiled with oil from the the oil gland at the base of a unicorn's horn, target pistols, really were rather heartless.

However, all will be rosy tomorrow. And I don't dare file out the mag well ridges. That would give me an excuse to spend more money. I am waiting for all of you to dump your Dlask mags for cheap on EE. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I feel your pain brother ! :(

I figured I was pretty hot $hit, welding up my off center grip screw holes and re-drilling them. It seems that whatever steel Dlask used in casting these frames, that it has a pretty high percentage of carbon !! :eek: I was down in the basement this morning to re-drill the holes, and ruined two #30 drill bits before I realized what had occurred. The welding of the original holes seems to have drawn a lot of carbon to the weld puddle and it cooled harder than hell. I picked up a solid carbide #30 drill bit ....... to the tune of $17 bucks :eek::eek::eek: and drilled the holes no problem. Now I've ruined a M4-0.7 tap trying to tap the holes. :bangHead:

I've ordered a carbide tap from ebay, but in the mean time it looks like I'll be test firing with only one screw per grip. :rolleyes: Don't ya hate it when Karma bites you in the a$$, or in this case ----> !:kickInTheNuts:
 
Last edited:
3961713004_764ca50487_b.jpg

Your de-cocker lever is quite a bit higher then mine....mine sits just below parallel with the slide where as yours seems to be a bit above parallel.

I haven't had much time to put in to this project yet but I'm looking forward to it! :rockOn:
 
I emailed Dlask and he said parts are available...don't know about whole kits though.

They're working on aluminum baseplates for the mags. Which is good news for people like me, who have broke theirs, now I don't have to toss it.

I'm not sure what he charges for extra mags, but MecGars are probably still better IMO.
 
Got my parts from Dlask today!!!

I'm going to fully strip, I've got a little rub happening on the slide that I'm going to clean up, slide lock seems a little stiff, so I'll see what I can do about that. Need to pick up the tap for the grip screws tomorrow and some rougher grip sandpaper for the finish. I have really good ejection and feed when I work the action manually with snapcaps. I'm really considering getting a kit with all Sig springs, but we'll see. Hopefully I'll be taking her to the range by the weekend and range report to follow.

I'm not 100% on this, but this may be the best $200 I've ever spent. I've really enjoyed this experience.

Oh, and I'll check out the D/A and I'll be ordering new grips and a new takedown lever to see if that fixes the 1/2mm movement with the slide. Doesn't seem to be affecting anything, but the takedown lever is a little loose. We'll see!

@ Effects

Don't let those gun snobs bug you. They didn't have the balls to build, so it's whatever. Y'know?
 
Can-down said:
3961713004_764ca50487_b.jpg

Your de-cocker lever is quite a bit higher then mine....mine sits just below parallel with the slide where as yours seems to be a bit above parallel.

I haven't had much time to put in to this project yet but I'm looking forward to it! :rockOn:
Click to expand...

Can anyone let me know if my de-#### is positioned strangely?

I did some tweaking today. SA is working good again and the de-#### works well also. Wow - my de-#### was working like a trigger. It would push the sear out but not pick up the trigger and it allowed the trigger to swing right through. I tweaked my trigger bar blade that fits into the hammer and now it doesn't impede the hammer after it has been released in SA.

Here's a kicker: What does the hammer stop spring do? I do not have mine installed because I could not figure it out. My trigger stop block is there just no spring.
 
effects said:
What does the hammer stop spring do? I do not have mine installed because I could not figure it out. My trigger stop block is there just no spring.
Click to expand...

I just looked at a cut-away. Am I right in assuming the hammer block spring ensures the hammer opens enough to allow the trigger bar to engage the DA notch in the hammer?
 
effects said:
What does the hammer stop spring do? I do not have mine installed because I could not figure it out. My trigger stop block is there just no spring.
Click to expand...

I the way I figure it when the hammer falls, it reaches a point in its rotation that the hammer strut is no longer pushing, but inertia carries the hammer into contact with the fining pin. At the same time the hammer stop spring hooks onto the crosspin in the hammer applying tension so after the firing pin is struck, the spring returns the hammer to where the sear engages the in safe notch.

-------------------------------------
Edit:
Am I right in assuming the hammer block spring ensures the hammer opens enough to allow the trigger bar to engage the DA notch in the hammer?
Click to expand...

Yes, that too ! :)
 
Broke mine tonight:(
img_1004.jpg

img_1014.jpg


Breechblock split in half from slide roll pin failure. Looks like roll pins broke, allowing the breechblock to move backwards and the top snapped off.

This just confirms what others have said about the weak pins.


Anyone replaced their roll pins yet? where did you get them from?
 
novega said:
Broke mine tonight:(

Breechblock split in half from slide roll pin failure. Looks like roll pins broke, allowing the breechblock to move backwards and the top snapped off.

This just confirms what others have said about the weak pins.


Anyone replaced their roll pins yet? where did you get them from?
Click to expand...

Dude, that sucks ! :( you said "roll pins broke" ..... did you put the inner pin in and they still broke ?

I haven't replaced my pins yet, I've only fired 100 rounds .... and I did it with only the one pin :eek: yeah I knew better, but I was in a hurry to get it to the range.

I took my slide apart after I read your post, and my roll pin was bent. Here's a pic. The other pin to the right is a new roll pin that I haven't installed yet .... I ordered new pins from Fastenal and I got a supply of the 3.5 x 26mm pins but I couldn't get the 2 x 26mm pins without ordering $30 bucks worth. I'm going to see if I can get some 5/64 x 1" pins instead, they seem to be pretty much the same on paper.


Breechblockrollpin_tn.jpg


I noticed that the pin hole in the slide was slightly tighter than the hole in the breech block.

Breech block hole = 3.5mm
slide pin hole = 3.4mm

When I re-assemble my slide I'm thinking of enlarging the slide pin hole to match the size of the hole in the breech block. I think that the smaller hole in the slide compressing the roll pin tighter might cause the pin to be loose in the breech block. I know its only about 4 thou difference, so maybe I'm being paranoid.

Novega, have you contacted Dlask about a new breech block yet ?? I'm hoping they'll be able to help you out. If you need some roll pins, PM me or here's the link to the 3..5 mm pins from fastenal ..... like I said earlier, I'm going to try a 5/64" inner pin because I couldn't get 2mm pins without ordering a $hit load.
 
joe-boy said:
Dude, that sucks ! :( you said "roll pins broke" ..... did you put the inner pin in and they still broke ?

I haven't replaced my pins yet, I've only fired 100 rounds .... and I did it with only the one pin :eek: yeah I knew better, but I was in a hurry to get it to the range.

I took my slide apart after I read your post, and my roll pin was bent. Here's a pic.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I was running both pins....openings 180 deg apart. Here's a pic of mine
img_1015.jpg
img_1016.jpg
img_1017.jpg



joe-boy said:
Novega, have you contacted Dlask about a new breech block yet ?? I'm hoping they'll be able to help you out. If you need some roll pins, PM me or here's the link to the 3..5 mm pins from fastenal ..... like I said earlier, I'm going to try a 5/64" inner pin because I couldn't get 2mm pins without ordering a $hit load.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I sent them an email explaining what happened and asking for prices on the parts, hopefully they have some. I also asked them if this is a known issue or is there something I can do to prevent this from happening in the future...hopefully they can help me out.
 
Keep us up to date. My kit just arrived the other day so I'm curious if I should replace them as part of the initial build. Sounds like it might not be a bad idea if the replacements are stronger.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom