Restoration Sticky.

Its a 1943 dated receiver & bolt. With a different magazine. Quite possibly with a different stock/buttplate than when it came off the line. And no bayonet. It is one of the most commonly available rifles in history. No historian is going to examine it and deem it a relic worthy of further study. Whatever soul it had died in the Ukraine when it was refurbed badly.

I plan to use it, enjoy it, and keep it in good repair, even if it has some new cosmetics. It may not be the prettiest thing or have a nickel of resale value but I promise to love it and take care of it.

P

ArtyMan said:
Do you really, honestly, truly believe that a 1943 dated Soviet rifle has 0 historic value? Think about it...
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Well here it goes, this one is my first restoration. Thanks to Lou for all the help on this one, without the guiding hand I'd still be lost in space! Thanks to the other CGNers who helped me out with parts and tips on getting the barrel to come clean. This was the one which was super lead fouled, it now has a nice shiny bore with a fair bit of rifling left.

Its a 1915 BSA No1 MkIII that falls into the proper serial range (was told its about 60,000 rifles) to be a transition rifle. It is marked as a III but it was built as a III* without the magazine cut-off. Unfortunate that it will never be original again, would have been a very nice collector piece. I have some before, during, and after photos, hope you all don't mind...

When it came to me it had been probably bead blasted and it had black paint for a finish. The sporter wood on it was very nice but the butt plate had been stripped of markings and the wood was not proud or flush of the metal so it had to go.

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Here's the before on the bits and pieces of the project. The butt disk is marked UA COTC (University of Alberta Canadian Officers Training Corps I was told). Some pics are after blueing etc. I was going to take pics of every step but never did. oops.

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Here it is today. I still have a bit of work left, some bedding, a missing nosecap nut and the sling it is going to wear still hasnt arrived, and I'm not happy with the finish yet so it needs a bunch more oil but its pretty much there! I had a lot of fun and have already lined up the next project rifle! Thanks to everybody that helped, this was a great learning experience!

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What would somebody charge to restore a Lee Enfield? I have one that is rusty, the wood is real rough(in my opinion) but she's a straight shooter and I'd like to see her purdied up! GREAT work in here gents!

Otokiak
Rankin Inlet, NU
CANADA
 
Hello all,

I just purchased my first gun... and it happens to be a P14.
It is sporterized, but only the stock, all metal is unaltered.

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Here is how it sits (I dont have it in hand yet, and this is the picture supplied by the seller

I want to be proactive and start looking into restoring it (it will be my first year hunting gun, but I would like to bring it back to its military specs as well).
The only other guns ive dealt with are from the CF, so I have 0 knowledge on restoring. Im doing my best to research, and with the inspirational pictures of some of the enfields in this thread Im eager to learn!

What kind of costs am I looking at to bring it back to specs? I also have another P14 that Im looking to pick up... I dont know why I need 2, but Ive got the bug!!!

What do I need for it? Obviously a stock, front+rear hanguards, and upper and lower bands, am I missing anything else?
Where can I find these types of things in Canada? Are they able to come over the border without any hassels?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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Here's a No4Mk2 which I got as a sporter, and for which I found really nice furniture; can't wait to try this one at the range!

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This is my second kick at the cat with restoring Enfields; my first one was a bubba'd Savage No4 Mk 1* and now a RSAF No1 Mk III* 1918.

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Cheers,
Peter
 
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i just picked these up, both free, planning on restoring the bottom one, the top i may keep as it is, or i may purchase an un issued wood set for it, missing a few parts for the bottom one clip, bolt, top wood, got a line on a bayonet, there both No.4 MK1
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How does everyone use BLO? Do you use it straight BLO or the mixed 1/3,2/3 with turpentine? Almost at the BLO stage for my no4
 
In conversation with Peter Laidler over at milsurps regarding my No5 he said it was in fact a hot bath in RLO that they used. RLO doesn't make the surface glazed and slippery in wet conditions. It also penetrates the wood deeper. After I tried it I'm never going back. BLO is for sporters in my opinion.

Edit: I can try to post the link tonight or tomorrow if you'd like to read what he said.
 
Flyng pig
I have been meaning to try this since reading comments on milsurps.....just have to make a vessel and a heater of some kind, could you pm me on what you have used?
It may make it easier on me, thanks!
 
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