Who makes the best .45

Claven2,

There is no bull#### here. The real thing.Like it or not, this is what it is. You should definitely start to go to bulleye match...

Just a very good target. Want to see the 50 yards ?? Here it is :



50 yards - two handed.

For those of you who asked : Trigger pull is 2.5 pounds/SVI sear and disconnector. Lapped STI barrel. Chamber is stock. Ammo is preped same as rifle : primer pocket uniformized, case trimmed to .898, sorted and weighted, bullets hard cast/sized .4515, sorted by weight. OAL 1.250
Redding dies and powder mesure. Target center is 3 3/4 inches.

I started to shoot in 1974 and the only allowed way to hold a gun at our Club was one handed. With training and a gun who can do it, this is what you can acheive. Many PPC guy can do better than this with their .38 , I know...

Claven2, want to see what I do with my Pardini Fiocchi ?? :shock: :D
 
Sandman said:
Who out there makes a top quality 1911 out there!
IIRC There has been at least 432 companies that has produced a version of the 1911 pistol over the years. So far I have not seen a "Trash" 1911 yet... even old WWII Remington Rand's are nice 1911's.

To define "Top Quality" is very hard... to everyone it means something different... i.e. ergonomics, dependability, price, brand name, status symbol, availibility of accessories and parts... etc etc.

It would be easier to figure out how much money you are willing to budget for your purchase, accessories and ammunition. Once you have a price/spending range it will help you determine which name brand is within your price range... once you have a few idea's... then try see if anybody has that model/brand in your area and are willing to let you try it out.

Most people will jump for a chance to show you and let you try their pride and joy. :mrgreen: Good luck in your endevour. :D

I would let you try mine but it is just a junky old Norinco double stack:

f22598f6.jpg
 
IIRC,

There is two attributes that should guide your choice :
Reliability : it must go bang all the time with the ammo you want to use
Must be accurate enough for what you want to do with it.

What make the 1911 a great gun is the fact that it can easily be worked on to make it perform as you wish. You should know what you want to do since, less expensive it will be ( features and fit), more it will cost to bring it to another level later on.
 
Janeau, I'm not calling you a liar with respect to your target and shooting results. What I am calling BS on is that it was because you shot the group with an STI. I would argue you could do as well, or very nearly so, with any other 1911 that's had a decent bushing and trigger job and decent sights.

What I'm saying is that an STI will not make a mediocre shooter into a great shooter. Just doesn't work that way. You post implies that if you go out and get an STI your groups will be itty bitty. The reality is that there's alot more to do with the shooter to get those results than what brand of quality 1911 you purchase.

Perhaps you should go back and read my post. I never called BS on your target - I called BS on your assertions regarding how your target is a direct result of your using a $2000+ 1911 ;)
 
Good shooting there, Janeau. I'd be lucky if my target looked like that when shooting at 15 yards. Wanna give me a lesson?:lol:
 
If you’re loaded get one of the following Wilson Combat, STI Executive/Edge, Infinity. Best of the best IMO

If you're wealthy get a Kimber TLE II, ora nice Springfield

If you're a pour bastard get a Norinco 1911 :p


If you want a good gun that won't leave you homeless and goes bang every time get a Beretta 8)
 
IM_Lugger said:
If you’re loaded get one of the following Wilson Combat, STI Executive/Edge, Infinity. Best of the best IMO

If you're wealthy get a Kimber TLE II, ora nice Springfield

If you're a pour bastard get a Norinco 1911 :p


If you want a good gun that won't leave you homeless and goes bang every time get a Beretta 8)

I think you are a little prejiduce when it comes to Berettas!!

I think you should get yourself something middle of the road,that is upgradeable. You have had everyone throw $350 1911's to $3000 versions at you.I would take what you have learned here and buy yourself either a Kimber Classic 2 which is about $1100 from Shooters Edge Or buy a Para Ordnance PXT 1911(about the same price.)or a Springfield Loaded 1911(again,about the same price) Three better than normal pistols at an average price.The unfortunate thing is we can tell you all kinds of 1911 pistols to buy but,you are the one who has to lay out the cash. Popurheadoff was right when he said to find someone at the range and try out theirs. I always feel special when someone wants to shoot my Cooey Rifle!! :lol: I wouldnt spend too much money on one right away though.Reason being there is always the chance you will change your mind.I also know the Vultures here will be waiting to get your brand new pistol for a deal in the Exchange Forums!!

Good Luck!!

Rob
 
I think you are a little prejiduce when it comes to Berettas!!
umm maybe just a little :mrgreen: Beretta is what got me into shooting, I wanted one before I even known what it's called :) but I like other guns too :wink:
 
IM_Lugger - I am neither poor nor a bastard but anyone of my Norincos will do everything your speggetti piece will do and as a bonus make significantly bigger holes doing it. The Norincos make great base guns for those who want to develope their own custom 1911 or as is, for a reliable shooter. A gun that with respect is capable of more accuracy than most owners are capable of demonstrating.

Do I like my Para, you bet. My STI Trojan in 9MM is great. But will either of the two outshoot my Norincos in .45acp or 9MM - nope not in my hands - results to date indicate a tie!
 
Claven2,

Sorry, I did not take your comment that way. Thanks for your explanation.
I agree with you that a $2000 gun does not make a shooter.
Note that my STI is not box stock. It needed work to get it there, but very little work.

Even a good shooter will have a hard time to obtain result with a gun that does not have a good trigger, barrel and that does not goes bang all the time. I believe that taking a Mill spec gun and turn it in a good shooter is a lot of trouble and money.( you done it and did a good job doing so)
But if you start with a Kimber, S&W, a STI Trojan or even a Springfield you have less to do to make it a very good shooter. A trigger job and later on a bushing and minor update will get you a very capable gun.

This being said, shooters forget that the shooter assistive features are were to start on any gun : A good trigger job worth 50 %, sight 25 % and ammo another 25 % (about) are necessary to wring out the best accuracy, the gun can mechanically give you.

If you have to battle with malfunctions and other mecanical problems, you will not enjoy it too much. I have seen more than my share of new 1911 shooters with a bargain gun that had problems. They had to buy new mags, get the guns to the smith to correct defects, very bad trigger ect. It is very expensive to correct excess tolerance and sometime not possible.

You are closer to avoid this kind of problems with a mid range priced gun ( 1000$ - 1300$) and make the experience of owning a 1911 more enjoyable.

But no matter all this, someone must want to learn the basics and train to shoot well.
.45 ACP is not the best caliber to learn how to shoot... but it sure pack a lot of fun for the $$.
 
IM_Lugger - I am neither poor nor a bastard but anyone of my Norincos will do everything your speggetti piece will do and as a bonus make significantly bigger holes doing it. The Norincos make great base guns for those who want to develope their own custom 1911 or as is, for a reliable shooter. A gun that with respect is capable of more accuracy than most owners are capable of demonstrating.

Okkkkay :roll:

you Nornco people are so sensitive; I didn’t say Norinco’s are crap, I said if you're pour…get a Norinco! which makes sence since they are cheep...

BTW What does the size of the hole in paper has to do with anything? but since you mentioned it ; I can shoot my spaghetti faster than you can your fried rice :wink:


and why would you buy a $400 gun and then spend hundreds of dollars on the fancy parts not to mention the gunsmith’s cut? If you know you’re going to upgrade your Norinco why not just get a Nice gun right away and save the time and all the hassle? I just don't get it :?
 
i guess that's the thing though.. if people only wanted the frame norcs. are a good choice? i mean why spend $1###.00 on a kimber and only to swap out all the parts?????
 
Janeau here is sometiing my $350 Norc A1 has not done. It hasn't failed to lock back the slide after the last round is fired - two slide stops and 1o mags later I find out STI ships the god damm guns with a 12# spring which is to heavy for the 9MM cartridge. $17 to Gunnar and I get a 10# spring that works.

Why buy a Nork and customize well for one thing the frames and slides are harder and stronger than your STI frame and slide. All the internals are forged if that makes a difference and I don't think it does and just for the hell of it. Same reason you bought a Baer then replaced parts in it. Why not start with a Norinco and get to the same place. Why spend +$2,000 for a gun then replace the barrel, bushings and internals. Seems like a hell of a deal for Baer, not so sure for the guy who spends the two grand.

IM_Lugger, I assume you are mis-spelling poor (pour) and cheap (cheep) for a reason...care to share it with us. Your Berretta is a fine gun, no doubt capable of meeting your needs. Just seems to me there are a lot of other 9MM guns out there that would exceed your needs. :D
 
Canuck44, If it takes a Norinco to meet your all your needs :roll: , then ANY other gun will exceed them... :wink:


If I’ll find a better 9mm I’ll let you know, just don’t hold your breath waiting :wink:
 
Canuck44,

I never had a frame or slide fail on any 1911 I owned. Actually a too hard a frame and slide are a drawback. They are near impossible to obtain good to frame to slide fit. A slide too hard can break. NORK frame and slide are not a good components to build a custom- precision gun.

To be able to get close tolerance, gun builder and manufacturer machine the frame and slide in the white before hardening it. Stainless is much harder and very few gun builder use this material for custom gun.

Forging is the only things Nork owner can trow around to say something good about it. In facts, this is old technology. Modern precision guns are machined from bar stock or cast (will get back on this later) You do not obtain good machining finish on forged parts. They are too hard to work to close tolerance. Even if you fit american internal in a NORK, you cannot change the internal dimension that remain Mill Spec / loose.

STI/SVI , Caspian, Springfield, Wilson and Para have proven that they last : those guns shoots more rounds than any NORK have ever seen and have been used by more shooter in high rounds game than NORK ever been. Do not forget that parts for your NORK will be Wilson, Caspian, Brown and whatever. They are in use in every military and police branch and have proven themselves.

Para frame are casted as is Ruger. Ever seen a Ruger # 1 in .458 Lott break ?? Have you ever heard of a Ruger handgun in .480 break du to metal fatigue or crack ?? Your car engine block is a casting as is the crankshaft. You want me to continue ?? The turbine engine are casting that withstand 35000 RPM and 900 degree C...

My STI..... is all stock except for the trigger job. At 2.5 pound no 1911 sear and hammer last forever. This is the only change. My STI has 7000 rounds in it and see that by yourself that slide frame fit is not problem and it is as tight as the day it was machined. STI frame and parts are HARD. Ask someone who have tried to dimple the slide stop or tried to tap the mag release button to add a mag release extender !! The barel quality..well.. tell me..

As any precision build gun, STI have to be broken in with factory spec ammo. A 12 pounds spring for a 9mm is just right. I do not know you, but I do know that many shooter do not know how to break in a new gun, break in a new barrel and lube it properly. Tighter the gun, more rounds it will take to do that.

Why not start with a NORK and change everything and get to the same place ? Even in changing all the parts in a NORK you will not get the same. A factory build gun, build by craftmen like Baer have a fit, finish and quality that no NORK will ever get. I am sure you never held a Baer Premier in your hand or you will not try to make all that BS about NORK- to fly.

hr- If you buy a Kimber, S&W, STI, Wilson you do not have anything to change, IF you buy a NORK, all parts are to be trowed away and replaced to make it what it should be.

This does not mean that you cannot find a NORK that will work right and that you will keep as is. I am sure that there is examples out there that are working ok as Mill Spec specimen..with the help of some american mags..

:mrgreen:
 
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