mudgunner49
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rosebud!!!
That is awesome. Mine is still in progress...
That is awesome. Mine is still in progress...
Winchester Survival Shotgun
- Thread starter xj Darrell
- Start date
- Location
- Sault Ste. Marie
thats awesome, I just started my 12g remington I bought on the EE. I have the stock cutand sanded the only problem I'm going to have is changing the long screw for the stock now that I only need it to be 3 inches.
I'm pretty sure it's a standard "hardware store" thread pitch. Take your long bolt down to the local Revy or HD and see if you can match up the thread pitch to one on the shelves. If so there's lots of lengths to choose from for cheap. You'll just need to figure out how to drill out the wood to allow a decent size crush/split prevention washer fit in and then how to cap the hole with a wood plug so the 5/8'ish size hole doesn't leave an imprint in your hand when it shoots.
Really for a Remington your best bet is just one of the plastic pistol grips that you can get for it.
Really for a Remington your best bet is just one of the plastic pistol grips that you can get for it.
- Location
- Sault Ste. Marie
thanks for the input the pistol grips takes away from the old country look tho I'm going down to a machine shop around the corner from my house to see if he can just rethread the original. I will add pics here later so everyone can see the little issue I had
the pistol grips takes away from the old country look tho I'm going down to a machine shop around the corner from my house to see if he can just rethread the original. I will add pics here later so everyone can see the little issue I hadJust a thought.
What do you think of taking a piece of inner tube from an old bicycle tire and pulling it over the pistol grip.
Won't make it look any nicer, but it might be easier to grip with cold, wet hands. I think it would dampen the recoil slightly as well.
Interesting idea. It has got me thinking....
What do you think of taking a piece of inner tube from an old bicycle tire and pulling it over the pistol grip.
Won't make it look any nicer, but it might be easier to grip with cold, wet hands. I think it would dampen the recoil slightly as well.
Interesting idea. It has got me thinking....
- Location
- Sault Ste. Marie
Can you guys explain how you screwed your stock on after sawing it down? I'm having an issue with this. I'd like to see some pics of the back of the handle. The hole I now have is on the back of the handle.
Assuming that it's the usual long rod that runs though a hole to a bigger hole in the rear of the stock where a nut and washer is then once you cut down the stock there's just the bolt hole left.
To get around this you'll need to counterbore the existing small hole to accept a bolt head. Drilling this will be great "fun" if you don't have a counterbore that uses a pilot. The angled opening will ensure you mess it up if you even think of trying to do this free hand with a hand drill.
It also points out the issue with using the stock bolt and end nut or hex cap screw and washer. The hole to accept the washer and the socket you'll need to go around the screw head is going to be massive on the scale of the things. Or if your gun uses the round head with big slot then it may be better. However by far the smallest hole you need would come from swapping the mounting bolt for an allen cap machine screw. The wood shoulder will be pretty small in this case but if you harden the end grain of the counter bore shoulder with some water thin CA glue it should hold up well enough. Even better would be a cross pin of brass that you then drill through so the head of the bolt sits on/in the brass. But you may not want to go to that much trouble.
Either way you may be able to sit a little wooden plug in the end and pin it with a cross pin made from a round toothpick. Don't glue any of this and don't assemble until any finish you use has had time to dry so that it doesn't glue itself together. You obviously want to be able to remove this to get access to the head of the bolt.
It's 20-20 hind sight now but what you should have done was leave a little block on the back of the stock when you cut it with a face that was square to the bolt hole. Then you could have counter bored it to the right depth using normal drills and gotten a nice result. Once you had the counter bore set up to take the modified bolt or new bolt then you could have cut the handle down to the final shape. As it sits now you only have three options that I can see. One is buy a counterbore drill to do the job. Second is use an end mill in a drill press and line it up well and arrange a way to clamp the handle well since counterboring with an end mill this way will make things jump around a lot. Third is to worry it out to size using a Dremel, LOTS of checking on progress and shape and lots of patience so it looks right. A socket, tube or other round item of the desired size should be used as a test guage for this.
To get around this you'll need to counterbore the existing small hole to accept a bolt head. Drilling this will be great "fun" if you don't have a counterbore that uses a pilot. The angled opening will ensure you mess it up if you even think of trying to do this free hand with a hand drill.
It also points out the issue with using the stock bolt and end nut or hex cap screw and washer. The hole to accept the washer and the socket you'll need to go around the screw head is going to be massive on the scale of the things. Or if your gun uses the round head with big slot then it may be better. However by far the smallest hole you need would come from swapping the mounting bolt for an allen cap machine screw. The wood shoulder will be pretty small in this case but if you harden the end grain of the counter bore shoulder with some water thin CA glue it should hold up well enough. Even better would be a cross pin of brass that you then drill through so the head of the bolt sits on/in the brass. But you may not want to go to that much trouble.
Either way you may be able to sit a little wooden plug in the end and pin it with a cross pin made from a round toothpick. Don't glue any of this and don't assemble until any finish you use has had time to dry so that it doesn't glue itself together. You obviously want to be able to remove this to get access to the head of the bolt.
It's 20-20 hind sight now but what you should have done was leave a little block on the back of the stock when you cut it with a face that was square to the bolt hole. Then you could have counter bored it to the right depth using normal drills and gotten a nice result. Once you had the counter bore set up to take the modified bolt or new bolt then you could have cut the handle down to the final shape. As it sits now you only have three options that I can see. One is buy a counterbore drill to do the job. Second is use an end mill in a drill press and line it up well and arrange a way to clamp the handle well since counterboring with an end mill this way will make things jump around a lot. Third is to worry it out to size using a Dremel, LOTS of checking on progress and shape and lots of patience so it looks right. A socket, tube or other round item of the desired size should be used as a test guage for this.
Hey Darrell:
Looks like a nice job, and inexpensive too (these guns can be had for $50. - $100.), but remember that the longest part here is still your barrel, so all the parts can be that long and still pack away nicely.
I assume as a survival gun you would either be defending yourself or gathering badly needed food (you'll want to hit what you're aiming at),and lining the gun up with your eye (aiming) will make it more effective tool.
I'd leave some sort of butt stock in place, just my take on it.
Looks cool though!
AND
the best reason to get a new gun... is cause you want one!
Looks like a nice job, and inexpensive too (these guns can be had for $50. - $100.), but remember that the longest part here is still your barrel, so all the parts can be that long and still pack away nicely.
I assume as a survival gun you would either be defending yourself or gathering badly needed food (you'll want to hit what you're aiming at),and lining the gun up with your eye (aiming) will make it more effective tool.
I'd leave some sort of butt stock in place, just my take on it.
Looks cool though!
AND
the best reason to get a new gun... is cause you want one!
- Location
- Sault Ste. Marie
Thanks for the tips BC I was thinking the same thing, I wish I woulda asked earlier for your block idea tho
blasted_saber
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- A blue part of Ontario
But what about chaning barrels on an 870? Can be done in the snap of a finger, and can have a huge variance in length?
So I needed a small shotgun for canoe/hiking trips this summer and didn't want to take a chance with the Dominion arms backpacker. Here is the result. It is a Winchester 37a 20 gauge shotgun (Macleods 60th anniversary model) Barrel cut and stock modified. OAL is 26 1/2". When taken down it packs up super small and is pretty light.
Original Firearm:
All you need for a great weekend!
you need a better knife
Haven't fire it yet.
Inner tube would work great, but how to keep it from sliding back and forth on the grip?
I have a buck 119 knife I use for hunting, but with the hard plastic handle, it's slippery as hell when it gets some blood on it. My solution was sail maker's thread, it's a waxed twine, I did a normal binding lash around the handle, and now it doesn't squirm in my grip at all, I assume it'd work pretty excellently for this purpose too.
I also had a wood stocked cap gun when I was a kid that I broke the stock on, dad lashed it back together the same way, and it's still holding together 12-15 years later.
- Location
- Pt. Hawkesbury, NS
lol.. Your making me think of some other ideas here... Not a good thing
