Wk180c issues and problems

I want to goto the longer ranges and test my "free float" 180c with some good ammo. With the factory handguard, the gas block had maybe less than 0.5mm of clearance, so simply putting pressure on it would make contact.

Was only able to test fire it at 30m at an indoor range, on a bipod, with a cold barrel and Hornady steel match 55gr i was putting 5 shots into the same hole. Cautiously optimistic that this could be a 1.5 or 1 moa plinker... We'll see!

The gas block now has at least 3mm+ of clearance all around
31955556677_bb5cc1163e_b.jpg
 
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Yes. One is to retain the pivot pin that connects the upper and lower receivers. The second is located in the trigger assembly. Specifically, it retains the bolt hold open mechanism.

Oh - E-clips... OK I also have one for the Bolt hold open lever. Forgot about that. Thanks again.
 
I picked up a couple more 1/4" e-clips from Canadian Tire as backup. It came with 1 spare but the one on the rifle broke after taking it on and off maybe 10 times (been working on various things).
 
I have to ask, did the top of that Troy rail you are using to "free float" your rifle have that opening in the top or is that your work?

Never seen a rail like that. Keep us posted on how she performs at distance.
 
I have to ask, did the top of that Troy rail you are using to "free float" your rifle have that opening in the top or is that your work?

Never seen a rail like that.

Yeah I took some time to open it up :) It had to meet the following criteria:

- under $150
- weighs total 10-13 ounces with the barrel nut
- has a wide gas tube channel
- 12 or 13 inches in length

Not many options so the Troy is what I ended up with. Wish it was M LOK and not a tube shape but beggers can't be choosers lol
 
Well done. You have my attention. Very interested in your accuracy results. If you get it to be a tac driver, then I may sell my bolt gun and buy a better scope with a QD mount and use that for distance. Will have to get the specifics of that hand guard as well. Where did you get a Troy handguard for under $150?
 
It was a clearance item from Rampart Corp for $100 shipped. They sometimes clear out Troy stuff at ridiculous prices.

Once i shoot at 50 and 100m I'll post some results.

I should note that i also swapped out the factory trigger for a set of factory Stag 10 trigger, too. Pulls around 5lbs or so and pretty good for milspec triggers
 
I want to goto the longer ranges and test my "free float" 180c with some good ammo. With the factory handguard, the gas block had maybe less than 0.5mm of clearance, so simply putting pressure on it would make contact.

Was only able to test fire it at 30m at an indoor range, on a bipod, with a cold barrel and Hornady steel match 55gr i was putting 5 shots into the same hole. Cautiously optimistic that this could be a 1.5 or 1 moa plinker... We'll see!

The gas block now has at least 3mm+ of clearance all around
31955556677_bb5cc1163e_b.jpg

Its still not a true free float, because its a Piston Gun. You want to turn the 180 into a free float you need to pull the piston out and run it as a spring assisted bolt gun.
 
Well I guess that depends who you talk to.

As long as the barrel and piston assembly don't touch the hand guard it oscillates consistently as unit with moving parts. Look at Joe Blacks comment, he kind of lays out the explanation pretty well. Sounds like he has had experience in the long distance rifle game, so I will defer to him. When it touches the hand guard it experiences all of the shooter's inputs which are not consistent from shot to shot, then it no longer free floats.

Trust me, if you remove the contact it will help the accuracy. If you are dealing with a rifle like an m14 where the stock runs the entire length and makes contact with the barrel in front of the gas block then that's a whole different issue.

Some will argue that its not really a true free float. There are loads of discussions, videos and books saying that you can "free float" a piston gun. At the end of the day, your rifle will be more accurate and I applaud your efforts.

Nice free float.

Still hanging around the thread Cameron? I thought this thread was useless like the twenty or so other similar threads that don't contribute anything original?

Glad to see you are sticking around.
 
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Before I got frustrated and sold mine, I looked into the very rough trigger closely.
What I found was the hammer sear notch and the trigger sear were actually well machined and had no burrs or rough/soft damaged edges.
It seemed to be the hammer spring was incredibly stiff.
I compared it the one in my AR and it was about 3 times the force required to pull the hammer back from the fired position with the lower receiver open.
I suspect this was also slowing down the bolts rearward travel and may have been intentional to reduce the force of the bolt coming back due over gassing? I'm only speculating. It may just be the manufacturer of said part made crazy stiff springs.
Regardless, simply swapping it out with a spare generic AR hammer spring spare I had laying around drasticly improved the trigger.
I mean night and day difference. I would suggest this as a very affordable solution primary to rectify it before dropping hundreds on match trigger sets etc
 
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i have an AR15 spring kit laying about. I will will swap out the hammer spring and see if that improves it. Can't say the trigger bothers me that much. I'm used to mil spec AR triggers so I don't have much to compare it too. Initially it was grainy and stagy but it has smooth up some. Repeated cycling and dry firing it while in front of the TV have improve it some.

Definitely not going to drop a couple hundred into a timney or Geissele at this point. I will avoid stoning and polishing the action for now, as my skills are not that refined and sometimes I make things worst. Maybe give the old paracord trick a go as well.
 
Just got back from the range. Problematic day. Lots of double feeds and FTE. Going to call Kodiak and see what the fix is for extractor problems. Anyone else experience this and what was the fix?
 
i have an AR15 spring kit laying about. I will will swap out the hammer spring and see if that improves it. Can't say the trigger bothers me that much. I'm used to mil spec AR triggers so I don't have much to compare it too. Initially it was grainy and stagy but it has smooth up some. Repeated cycling and dry firing it while in front of the TV have improve it some.

Definitely not going to drop a couple hundred into a timney or Geissele at this point. I will avoid stoning and polishing the action for now, as my skills are not that refined and sometimes I make things worst. Maybe give the old paracord trick a go as well.

No don't drop the cash until you swap the hammer spring first.
Inspect the hammer sear edge and the trigger sear edge, if they are badly machined or damaged/rolling edges etc then polish them while you have it apart.
That should get you well beyond expectations for a generic milspec AR type trigger in the 180C

Sorry to hear you are having problems with yours.
Hopefully your patience/tolerance for f**kery is greater than mine was lol

My Type 81 is an unstoppable tank of a gun so far and I'm beating it hard and dirty. You could always join the dark side ;) lol
 
No don't drop the cash until you swap the hammer spring first.
Inspect the hammer sear edge and the trigger sear edge, if they are badly machined or damaged/rolling edges etc then polish them while you have it apart.
That should get you well beyond expectations for a generic milspec AR type trigger in the 180C

Sorry to hear you are having problems with yours.
Hopefully your patience/tolerance for f**kery is greater than mine was lol

My Type 81 is an unstoppable tank of a gun so far and I'm beating it hard and dirty. You could always join the dark side ;) lol

Already did. I picked up an almost new CSA VZ58. What an awesome gun. Had a great time at the range with it today. Lifted my spirits when the WK failed to perform again. The VZ58 is my new favourite rifle. Hopefully over time, the WK will find a place in my heart as well.
 
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