Savage 10TR le/military

Cobec said:
Just dropped mine in an XLR Element Chassis. Just waiting for my Surefire Muzzle Brake from IRUNGUNS then its good to go and I can start load workup. Taking it out next week to test out the chassis.

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That is sweet.
 
Moparman1303 said:
I want to use my rifle for hunting/precision. Here what im thinking.

http://www.vortexoptics.com/category/viper_hst_riflescopes

Im thinking Vortex rings? med?

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...mm (xzzx311-xzzx312)|AAK_30 Caliber (xzzx308)

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...32316.aspx?avs|Manufacturer_1=J P ENTERPRISES


http://www.dayattherange.com/?p=3014 Where i got the want to own this rifle.

Can any break really fit?
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The HS-T is a great choice for an optic, that is what I have on my 10TR. I have vortex medium rings and honestly I could probably get away with the low rings. Any muzzle device will fit that's the right caliber and threads.
 
Mine arrived today :)!!!! Gonna pick up some glass for it tomorrow, cannot afford what I want so gonna settle for a Nikon 4x16x50 for now and when I can afford what I really want the Nikon can go on my m14, or my 270....
 
Mine arrived yesterday, disassembled it and gave it a good cleaning. Got familiar with it, adjusted the trigger...it's a very nice rifle. I put the rail on with loctite and the scope and bipod are ready to be installed on it.

I really like everything about this one so far, the barrel is a beast and the ATRS brake will look great on it.

My safe is maxed out now...you know, i partially blame this forum for that...
 
Picked up a Nikon Monarch 4-16x50 side focus today and threw it on my Savage 10 TR, got it out to the range to run it through a break in. LOVE this gun already!!!!
Special note : I had drank way too much coffee today and was a little shaky, groups could have been better I think......

Here she is


1st group


2nd group (only shot 4 rounds this one, not sure how I forgot)


3rd group

Stopped with the "break in" after that grouping. Pretty pumped with it so far. All shooting was done at 100 yards with a front and rear sandbag. Cannot wait till my second trip out!
 
I was out doing load development yesterday for mine. I booked the day off once I saw the forecast..... +15, wind from the SE@10k, which at my home range equals dead calm due to the positioning of the berms, hills and tree line.

I didn't take any pics, cuz I'm a little thick sometimes.... I'm kicking myself for that....

I put it in a HS stock, CDI bottom metal from Mystic Precision. Bedded etc. it's wearing a falcon menace 5.5-25x56mm scope MRAD reticle and MRAD turrets. No muzzle device, just the thread protector.

12-3 shot groups. Largest group size was .925 (lots of vertical) to a all time personal best of .098"..... That's an outside to outside measurement of .406".....

168 SMK, H-4895, GM215M, Lapua brass....

I have been shooting this thing in stages. Hornady 168gr match ammo. 5 shot Groups in stock form, again with the upgraded parts and then again once bedded. Up till now the best I was able to do was .505"...... All in I've fired 175 rnds with the rifle before doing a ladder test. I figured that the ladder would be pointless untill I was done tweaking!

Needless to say, I'm pretty happy with this set-up right now!
 
I had to make this ridiculously high cheek riser to match the ridiculously tall scope rings. I lucked out and everything fit perfectly in the exact spot I needed it on the first try so I drilled the holes and bolted the sucker on. I stuck a patch of PacSkin on the aluminum and it's pretty comfy.


I bought the tall rings because right from the get go I already planned on mounting it into an XLR chassis so I needed the height for my scope to clear the handguard.


The optic clears the carbon tube nicely but the only issue I have now is the riser on the PRS stock doesn't go high enough. :( Guess I'll have to tinker with it get the perfect cheek rest again.
 
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Jwan320 said:
I had to make this ridiculously high cheek riser to match the ridiculously tall scope rings. I lucked out and everything fit perfectly in the exact spot I needed it on the first try so I drilled the holes and bolted the sucker on. I stuck a patch of PacSkin on the aluminum and it's pretty comfy.


I bought the tall rings because right from the get go I already planned on mounting it into an XLR chassis so I needed the height for my scope to clear the handguard.


The optic clears the carbon tube nicely but the only issue I have now is the riser on the PRS stock doesn't go high enough. :( Guess I'll have to tinker with it get the perfect cheek rest again.
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Looks good man, we need to do a group picture of all the 10TRs one of these days.
 
So I dug my '10 out of the safe the other day and went down the back field to squeeze off a few rounds loaded with 110 gr hp Hornadys and the groups were about 2.3" at 200 yds. I have only shot the rifle one other time and was able to completely cover a 3 round group (from 100 yds) with a dime. I figured that it was just the loads that were affecting the grouping, so I just put that in the brain bucket for follow up. Yesterday, I took it down the field again and fired 6 rounds from my initial load, which was 147 gr. Hornady FMJ bullets over 43gr of Win 748 powder and a CCI lg rifle primer. Well- the thing was just all over the page- Literally! Shots strung vertically 4" and laterally 2". This morning I took the scope off to check the rail for proper torque. I was shocked to find all 4 screws loose and similar to other peoples' findings, there was a thick film of oil between the rail and receiver.
Cleaned it up, put Loc-Tite on the screws and tightened everything back up.
Looking forward to having my budget tack driver put a smile on my face!
 
Just keep in mind that if you take the rifle apart, the torque you apply on the action screws will have a significant effect on your groups. And you may want to keep that area near the recoil lug clean of oil and gunk. I don’t know how “common knowledge” this is but i only found out this week end. I was just tightening by hand as much as i could, aft or forward screw first don’t know...yeah not optimal.

This is an interesting read on the subject, how many of you did this torque test?

h ttp://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
 
ALMAR said:
Just keep in mind that if you take the rifle apart, the torque you apply on the action screws will have a significant effect on your groups. And you may want to keep that area near the recoil lug clean of oil and gunk. I don’t know how “common knowledge” this is but i only found out this week end. I was just tightening by hand as much as i could, aft or forward screw first don’t know...yeah not optimal.

This is an interesting read on the subject, how many of you did this torque test?

h ttp://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/
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This is the great thing about a forum .You get new information that terrifies you about everything you ever did before today
 
I just got back from trying my 10TR out for the first time, I guess I got one of the rigs that are crooked. I tried out the 100 yard line, nothing, then the 50 yard line, nothing,, walked up tho the 25 yard line and hit approx 1 foot to the right! After 70 clicks I was back at the 100 yard line and finally centered! I understand that not everyone has this problem but there are enough of us that it shows there is a Quality control problem at savage! To let these rifles get out to the public and to LE and military folks at that! If they were looking to impress everyone with these to the point of possibly getting contracts,, well I would not recommend these to any Canadian le mil for sure and the silence from Savage on them almost makes me think they may have known about the QC and said nothing! The deal isn't much of a deal if we have to go out and get a special rail or millwork done!
Anyone know of a good Gunsmith in Nova Scotia/ Atlantic provinces?
 
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