SR22 Rifle Questions

Installed a Dlask 8". My preference was for a 10" barrel and a XB5 Flashhider/Muzzle brake combination which would have protruded about 1-2" past the fore end. However no 10" barrels were available. I decided to go with an 8" and a fake suppressor to achieve the same +/- overall length. I may switch to a 10" when they become available.

I am now debating whether to keep the sliding stock (o/a length 26.25" when collapsed) or replace it with this really nice skeleton stock, which looks and feels great but is quite a bit longer [...]

I decided to mount the Ace stock on mine:
IMG_6148_zps5ef25178.jpg


It makes it 3" longer than the stock version when fully collapsed, but I love how comfortable it is and like the look too.

Great share bro! Looks amazing!

I am currently heavily invested in 3 builds right now:

The first using the SR22 pretty much stock and then decked out with about $1000 in Magpul FDE, Iron Eagle bits and Dlask Full Length Quad rails, with the SPARC optic and rifle itself I'm already over $2000 for that one (most or which sourced from CGN dealers/sponsors)

It will look very much like UTAH's build (below):

http://2.bp.########.com/-DDv_78OpO6A/TwNprIo3sKI/AAAAAAAAAHs/u5soias4Le8/s640/IMAG0124.jpg


The second will be based off the NEA chassis I just ordered from TSE, and be very similar to supernova's except with a different butt stock (suggestions?) and a Troy or Midwest Industries 7 inch (or shorter if I can find one) Free Floating handguard, which was the appeal in the NEA chassis, being a different look and the top rail lining up perfectly with the top rail of the AR handguards, and a 10 or 12 inch (tapered + threaded) barrel (still need to find one) for a light weight build with some nice loud report! I may go FDE again on this one, or Olive Drab, or even grey if I can source some parts in that color... suggestions?

It will be similar to supervovas build:


The third, which I didn't even plan on doing till I seen your build Tom E Gun $$$ (as well as gcdavidson's and Docburn's similar build), will use the ACE ARFX stock of some type (but I don't know which one yet, or where I should order from) and look very much like gcdavidson's build, except with a Nordic Components AR22 chassis and I think the exact same stock you used Tom E Gun!

gcdavidson used the shorter one I believe (maybe the original AKFX ACE in 7.5 + 1 inch recoil pad?), but I think I want to go with something longer so I can use an 8 or 10 inch barrel on this one, nevertheless I really love the look of his 4" handguard, Kinetech bbl shroud, with Charger threaded bbl along with the skeleton stock, which has convinced me to do the 3rd build at the same time as the other 2....

Nothing like having $4500 tied up in three .22lr builds! LOL OMG why am I doing this again? Oh yeah, cause it's a compulsion/addiction, and priceless!


So I have some questions for all of you:

From the manufacturer:
(ARFX) ACE ARFX Skeleton Stock
Experience for yourself the improved feel of this lighter weight buttstock from Ace Ltd. Does not include buffer tube, buffer or spring. CAR length includes buffer tube.

SKU: A101

Recoil Pad Options:
1/2 inch or 1 inch recoil pad.

1) What model stock and buffer tube model number was used in Tom E Gun's build and can they be purchased in Canada or only imported from Brownells (under $100 order)

2) Which Ace stock is best for the 8 inch or 10 inch barrel? How does the longer one feel when shouldered?

3) Anyone know where I can source the 4 inch handguard (brand?) and Kinetech bbl shroud from gcdavidson's build?

4) Anyone know where I can get my hands on a 10 inch barrel (for charger pistol or any other black 10 inch threaded barrel otherwise)?

Any and all help is so much appreciated! I know it's asking a lot but I'm sure someone helped you guys with making decisions on your builds and sourcing parts, and I'm more than happy to provide photos, feedback, and range reports on my 3 builds when completed.
 
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So I have some questions for all of you:



1) What model stock and buffer tube model number was used in Tom E Gun's build and can they be purchased in Canada or only imported from Brownells (under $100 order)

2) Which Ace stock is best for the 8 inch or 10 inch barrel? How does the longer one feel when shouldered?

3) Anyone know where I can source the 4 inch handguard (brand?) and Kinetech bbl shroud from gcdavidson's build?

4) Anyone know where I can get my hands on a 10 inch barrel (for charger pistol or any other black 10 inch threaded barrel otherwise)?

Any and all help is so much appreciated! I know it's asking a lot but I'm sure someone helped you guys with making decisions on your builds and sourcing parts, and I'm more than happy to provide photos, feedback, and range reports on my 3 builds when completed.

Thanks for sharing LeadMonkey! You certainly are enthusiastic about the subject :)
Re your questions above:
1) I bought the stock used from DocBurn, I think he bought it and the tube from Brownells
2) The long stock that I have feels great and works very well for a scope, to provide proper eye relief. I think the shorter stock would be better suited to a red dot.
3) Sorry I can't help here, I would pm dcdavidson (he is also on Rimfire Central with the same handle).
4) I was looking for a 10" and a guy offered me a 10" charger barrel, I will try to see if I still have the pm from him. There is also a 10" Kidd barrel on the EE right now (not black, not threaded) ---update: I must have deleted the pm, it may be worth while putting a WTB ad on the EE.
 
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LeadMonkey;
Good find! My used SR22 is the type without the threaded barrel and without the short front rail & folding sights. I like the look of your newer model.

I learned something useful from the pictures you posted. I was wondering why mine has a gap between the pistol grip and trigger guard, but yours does not. Then I looked through some of the spare bits and pieces that came with mine and found a little soft rubber block that pushes in to fill the gap.

I decided to mount the Ace stock on mine:
IMG_6148_zps5ef25178.jpg

It makes it 3" longer than the stock version when fully collapsed, but I love how comfortable it is and like the look too.

Yeah, looks good and shoots nice too.
Kim
 
The 4" HG is from Ultimate Arms.

With a 10.5" threaded bbl, the short ARFX stock *and* the 1" recoil pad, the OAL is >26". I went with the short ARFX because it was on priced with the buffer tube and sling swivel included for a fair bit less than the longer stock.

I've mounted a green laser in front of the TRS-25, but am contemplating tapping the bottom of the HG for rail, so I can put on a command arms magwell grip, and re-locate the laser.
 
The 4" HG is from Ultimate Arms.

With a 10.5" threaded bbl, the short ARFX stock *and* the 1" recoil pad, the OAL is >26". I went with the short ARFX because it was on priced with the buffer tube and sling swivel included for a fair bit less than the longer stock.

I've mounted a green laser in front of the TRS-25, but am contemplating tapping the bottom of the HG for rail, so I can put on a command arms magwell grip, and re-locate the laser.

Thanks a bunch for the math on this gcdavidson. I want to nail 660mm to the dot. Do you have a line on the short ARFX ? I see Fab sells em but the recoil pads look to be 1/2"
 
Hey TEG. Thank you for the great post and to everyone for the inspiration.

I brought a spare Ruger home from the cottage that literally has only fired 25 rounds.

Plane Jane synthetic black. Was just planing on some trigger and bolt tinkering over the winter, and...

Now I have a Nordic chassis on order.

HELP!!! I've been bitten.
 
I bought the stock used from DocBurn, I think he bought it and the tube from Brownells... I was looking for a 10" and a guy offered me a 10" charger barrel [...] it may be worth while putting a WTB ad on the EE.

So awesome guys! Thanks SO much.

I have just ordered the same parts DocBurn ordered from Brownells:

Doc, did the skeletal stock come with the fixed length buffer tube, or was that a separate-order item?

I had to buy the buffer tube to go with it..

#100000809
ARFX AR-15 SKELETON STOCK

with

#430000486
AR-L94-61574 AR RECEIVER EXT. TUBE

I also already have the Wanted To Buy Ad for the 10 inch threaded barrel on the Equipment Exchange, please let me know if anyone sees anything come around!

The 4" HG is from Ultimate Arms.

With a 10.5" threaded bbl, the short ARFX stock *and* the 1" recoil pad, the OAL is >26". I went with the short ARFX because it was on priced with the buffer tube and sling swivel included for a fair bit less than the longer stock.

I've mounted a green laser in front of the TRS-25, but am contemplating tapping the bottom of the HG for rail, so I can put on a command arms magwell grip, and re-locate the laser.

Oh wow thanks alot! How can I source the Ultimate Arms Gear AR-15 4.2 inch Free Float Handguard (model UAG-FFHG-4.2)? They have it on Amazon for $50 but sadly won't ship to Canada. I emailed Irunguns to inquire if they will export it to me.
 
Check the EE, but not the Rimfire EE, you need to scour the "Exchange of parts and accessories for Modern Military and Black Rifles". Remember the SR-22 has the same threads as AR for handguard and buttstock. Ebay sometimes has sellers in Canada, or willing to ship to Canada.
 
Check the EE, but not the Rimfire EE, you need to scour the "Exchange of parts and accessories for Modern Military and Black Rifles". Remember the SR-22 has the same threads as AR for handguard and buttstock. Ebay sometimes has sellers in Canada, or willing to ship to Canada.

Thanks, I purchased the same handguard as you gcdavidson, except it has been made by DPMS (Defense Procurement Manufacturing Services) for over 20 years now and called the Kitty Kat Free Float Tube (4 1/8") - Part Number FF-03

Now I'm having a hell of a time getting the handguard off!
 
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SR-22 Hand Guard Removal

Put the chassis front piece in a vice. If your not worried about keeping the factory fore end, use a pair of channel locks and twist it off. The factory uses a whole tube of locktite on it and practically cements it on. Wrap with an old leather belt if you want to maintain the finish on the hg.

Ive been through several SR22 builds and the HG was always a pain to get off.

Id recommend the Dlask Short HG myself. ;)

The loctite is so freaking dead on the thread even I already apply the heat in that area. I don't think it can be done without the vice to firmly hold down the forend adapter. Or I might need the new forend adapter to finish the job. As you say it is the painful part of the modification.

On both of my builds, I wrecked the finish on both HG's taking it off. I wasn't worried about keeping them or reselling at the time. I vice is best if you got one, just protect the fore end adapter with card board when you clamp it down. Once in, if you don't have channel locks, slip a large screw driver through the holes in the HG and twist. You can slip something over the shank to protect the finish.

Ok, so as suggested the SR22 handguard is really difficult to remove due to the whole tube of loctite blue used by the manufacturer.

Any way I did manage to get the handguard and handguard indexing ring off in perfect condition (for sale in the EE) by clamping in a protected vice and heating the inside of the barrel nut, placing a protected metal dowel through the holes and twisting, it came right off as seen in the photo's below.






The problem now is I can't remove the SR-22 barrel nut without use of an elusive/unkown size expensive spanner wrench of some type.

From 'rugerforum'...

You don't need a spanner wrench. Remove the handgaurd assembly from the rifle with the 2 bolts below. Clamp the square assembly piece firmly in a protected vice and use the end of a brass rod on the notch in the nut. Tap the rod with a hammer in the proper direction to rotate off and that's it.

Wish I had seen this before ordering a $33 spanner wrench that didn't work for the job. I ended up using a screwdriver in one of the notches and rubber mallet. These tools worked like a charm. Ruger tech support had me off looking for a tool even more rare than the elusive "left handed smoke shifter".

The spanner wrenches are expensive and a problem with them is that any misalignment or a slip, and bingo...the hard metal cuts through the black finish and leaves a shiny spot.

I tried the suggestions from rugerforum dot net above but it didn't budge even after heating the thing up with the torch a half dozen times and going at it with a flat punch in one of the notches and a mini sledge hammer. It is NOT coming off! :HR:

Anyone have any more ideas?


 
Or you could just drill a hole all the way thru, and insert the same dowel and twist if off, just like you did with the HG . You may need to clean the threads up a bit after, but it should not be too difficult. The HG will hide the hole when everything is reassembled.
 
Not a bad idea Tom E Gun... but so much work drilling through such dense material and sadly no drill press at the moment. I'd probably regret it in the end.

Say what are the chances the Ultimate Arms Gear AR-15 4.2 inch Free Float Handguard / Kitty Kat Free Float Tube use the same size barrel nut?
 
Or, just leave it on - you might get lucky and the HG you ordered could have the same threads as the Ruger bbl nut. Wait for your new HG to arrive before you drop any more $ in removing the OEM nut.

Another way of removing it is to find a square-head bolt, the corners of the head slide into the grooves on the bbl nut, and then thread some nuts on to the square head bolt, and use your biggest wrench.

Surprised you had to blow torch the lock ring. Mine came off with just a light tap.
 
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