elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Looking good.
Kim
Kim
Installed a Dlask 8". My preference was for a 10" barrel and a XB5 Flashhider/Muzzle brake combination which would have protruded about 1-2" past the fore end. However no 10" barrels were available. I decided to go with an 8" and a fake suppressor to achieve the same +/- overall length. I may switch to a 10" when they become available.
I am now debating whether to keep the sliding stock (o/a length 26.25" when collapsed) or replace it with this really nice skeleton stock, which looks and feels great but is quite a bit longer [...]
I decided to mount the Ace stock on mine:
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It makes it 3" longer than the stock version when fully collapsed, but I love how comfortable it is and like the look too.
http://2.bp.########.com/-DDv_78OpO6A/TwNprIo3sKI/AAAAAAAAAHs/u5soias4Le8/s640/IMAG0124.jpg
From the manufacturer:
(ARFX) ACE ARFX Skeleton Stock
Experience for yourself the improved feel of this lighter weight buttstock from Ace Ltd. Does not include buffer tube, buffer or spring. CAR length includes buffer tube.
SKU: A101
Recoil Pad Options:
1/2 inch or 1 inch recoil pad.
So I have some questions for all of you:
1) What model stock and buffer tube model number was used in Tom E Gun's build and can they be purchased in Canada or only imported from Brownells (under $100 order)
2) Which Ace stock is best for the 8 inch or 10 inch barrel? How does the longer one feel when shouldered?
3) Anyone know where I can source the 4 inch handguard (brand?) and Kinetech bbl shroud from gcdavidson's build?
4) Anyone know where I can get my hands on a 10 inch barrel (for charger pistol or any other black 10 inch threaded barrel otherwise)?
Any and all help is so much appreciated! I know it's asking a lot but I'm sure someone helped you guys with making decisions on your builds and sourcing parts, and I'm more than happy to provide photos, feedback, and range reports on my 3 builds when completed.
LeadMonkey;
Good find! My used SR22 is the type without the threaded barrel and without the short front rail & folding sights. I like the look of your newer model.
I learned something useful from the pictures you posted. I was wondering why mine has a gap between the pistol grip and trigger guard, but yours does not. Then I looked through some of the spare bits and pieces that came with mine and found a little soft rubber block that pushes in to fill the gap.
I decided to mount the Ace stock on mine:
![]()
It makes it 3" longer than the stock version when fully collapsed, but I love how comfortable it is and like the look too.
??????Tom E Gun,
I see you have a barbershop now, lol.
Kim
The 4" HG is from Ultimate Arms.
With a 10.5" threaded bbl, the short ARFX stock *and* the 1" recoil pad, the OAL is >26". I went with the short ARFX because it was on priced with the buffer tube and sling swivel included for a fair bit less than the longer stock.
I've mounted a green laser in front of the TRS-25, but am contemplating tapping the bottom of the HG for rail, so I can put on a command arms magwell grip, and re-locate the laser.
I bought the stock used from DocBurn, I think he bought it and the tube from Brownells... I was looking for a 10" and a guy offered me a 10" charger barrel [...] it may be worth while putting a WTB ad on the EE.
Doc, did the skeletal stock come with the fixed length buffer tube, or was that a separate-order item?
I had to buy the buffer tube to go with it..
#100000809
ARFX AR-15 SKELETON STOCK
with
#430000486
AR-L94-61574 AR RECEIVER EXT. TUBE
The 4" HG is from Ultimate Arms.
With a 10.5" threaded bbl, the short ARFX stock *and* the 1" recoil pad, the OAL is >26". I went with the short ARFX because it was on priced with the buffer tube and sling swivel included for a fair bit less than the longer stock.
I've mounted a green laser in front of the TRS-25, but am contemplating tapping the bottom of the HG for rail, so I can put on a command arms magwell grip, and re-locate the laser.
Check the EE, but not the Rimfire EE, you need to scour the "Exchange of parts and accessories for Modern Military and Black Rifles". Remember the SR-22 has the same threads as AR for handguard and buttstock. Ebay sometimes has sellers in Canada, or willing to ship to Canada.
Put the chassis front piece in a vice. If your not worried about keeping the factory fore end, use a pair of channel locks and twist it off. The factory uses a whole tube of locktite on it and practically cements it on. Wrap with an old leather belt if you want to maintain the finish on the hg.
Ive been through several SR22 builds and the HG was always a pain to get off.
Id recommend the Dlask Short HG myself.![]()
The loctite is so freaking dead on the thread even I already apply the heat in that area. I don't think it can be done without the vice to firmly hold down the forend adapter. Or I might need the new forend adapter to finish the job. As you say it is the painful part of the modification.
On both of my builds, I wrecked the finish on both HG's taking it off. I wasn't worried about keeping them or reselling at the time. I vice is best if you got one, just protect the fore end adapter with card board when you clamp it down. Once in, if you don't have channel locks, slip a large screw driver through the holes in the HG and twist. You can slip something over the shank to protect the finish.
From 'rugerforum'...
You don't need a spanner wrench. Remove the handgaurd assembly from the rifle with the 2 bolts below. Clamp the square assembly piece firmly in a protected vice and use the end of a brass rod on the notch in the nut. Tap the rod with a hammer in the proper direction to rotate off and that's it.
Wish I had seen this before ordering a $33 spanner wrench that didn't work for the job. I ended up using a screwdriver in one of the notches and rubber mallet. These tools worked like a charm. Ruger tech support had me off looking for a tool even more rare than the elusive "left handed smoke shifter".
The spanner wrenches are expensive and a problem with them is that any misalignment or a slip, and bingo...the hard metal cuts through the black finish and leaves a shiny spot.
Another way of removing it is to find a square-head bolt, the corners of the head slide into the grooves on the bbl nut, and then thread some nuts on to the square head bolt, and use your biggest wrench.