Norinco NS522 build: NEW MAG RELEASE

Well it's been a long wait but I will finally get mine out tomorrow for a test drive. Damned triple bypass slowed me down for 7 weeks on getting out to the range but good to go now. I haven't modified anything yet. Want to see the before and after. I did take it apart and clean really well and polished the trigger spring slot but that was it. It wasn't really all that bad to begin with. Lots of oil and little bit of dirt inside but looks great.

Scott...
 
-raqh- said:
Hey guys, I notice both the head and treads of my action bolts are different, is it the same for yours? I know one of you had a slightly bended bolt but they looked the same from the picture.

And am I the only one that would like a over sized bolt knob? After cycling the action over and over to smooth it out, I realized a slightly bigger bolt knob would be much more confortable.
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My bolts are the same and straight. They weren't very tight either. Two fingers on the screw driver to remove them.
Scott...
 
After playing for a bit with steel brake tubing, I've decided I really like using brass lamp nipples for pillars. I'm working on a JW-15 stock just now, and I simply cut the lamp nipples to length, drilled the holes in the stock out to 3/8", and then screwed the nipples into the wood. No muss like with epoxy, no drying time, and, if I've measured wrong, I can simply screw the pillars back out, adjust as necessary, and screw them back in again. It really is a no muss, no fuss way to pillar bed a rimfire rifle.
 
minimouse said:
After playing for a bit with steel brake tubing, I've decided I really like using brass lamp nipples for pillars. I'm working on a JW-15 stock just now, and I simply cut the lamp nipples to length, drilled the holes in the stock out to 3/8", and then screwed the nipples into the wood. No muss like with epoxy, no drying time, and, if I've measured wrong, I can simply screw the pillars back out, adjust as necessary, and screw them back in again. It really is a no muss, no fuss way to pillar bed a rimfire rifle.
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I really like the lamp nipples as well. Very easy to work with. Unfortunately the front mount screw on my Marlin 917V I was working on was bigger than the hole the lamp nipples come with and if I drilled I would have nothing left to use for a pillar. The brake tubing is a nice alternative if you need something specific in size. I still epoxy the lamp nipples once I have the proper length.

Scott...
 
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did some shooting the other day. just off a backpack with no rear rest and bulk fed ammo. was also testing dialing my scope. here some pics of groups. 50m 10 shots
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[/URL][/IMG] dialing at 25m. 5 shots at each spot.cheap $200 fixed 10x
 
minimouse said:
First of all, what a wonderful thread! Father, I have very much enjoyed following the progress of your Norinco project thru all 39 pages of this thread (which I have spent most of the day reading). Thanks for posting all of that wonderful stuff! Here in the US, you don't hear much about the NS-522 these days, since they came out here in 1996 or so. Back in those days, they were much discussed on the interwebz, but many of those old threads have disappeared, and not too much new is being said about them here. "Archer Sam" provided a link to this fine site over on RimFire Central, and so here I am. One tip I've found in my research on these fine rifles concerns the trigger spring. Quite a few people in the US have fashioned a lighter replacement trigger spring from an appropiately sized safety pin. Just cut off the big end and bend to the same shape as the original spring. Anyway, a big "Howdy" to all you canadian gun nutz, and I hope you will keep this conversation going!
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Love this thread..Thanks so much to Father for the original posts!!!

Got me back on some handy work and marksmanship.

Bedded it, painted it black (needs a touch up yet)..

First 50M group in the cold today , used federal value pack (what I had).. I LIKE it.

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acunning said:
Finally had a day with light winds, so out to 150 yds we went. All over the place at first, until I started to use the mildots for height, and held off to the right for wind. Lost 2 bullets to the sighter target, and then the wind quit changing, and I started to adjust for it, and presto. Probably unrepeatable, but whatever lol.



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Ah another farmer, the Eley Practice really digests well through this little gun.
 
I do have more updates and mods coming, but I need to find some time to post and type it all. The bolt handle has turned out to be great fun!
 
Father said:
I do have more updates and mods coming, but I need to find some time to post and type it all. The bolt handle has turned out to be great fun!
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Super cool looking forward to more mods and updates. I am definitely in for a trigger spring. Just just did some 70M groups, stopped when the wind got gusty and switched S to W in moments. All Eley Practice for the chest thumping groups, 10 rounds 1 1/4 to 1 1/2, had a single 5 round beautiful group for me just under 1". The bedding job paid, used JB Weld.

This is a very fun little rifle.

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This is more typical of today, the 5 to the left are Rem Subsonics.

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I was out shooting mine yesterday with my cz 455 for comparison.
I have the standard trigger spring and I have smoothed out the trigger surfaces. I have also installed pillars and JB weld bedded both rifles. The cz has the "yo Dave" trigger spring kit installed. The trigger pull on the Ns 522 is defiantly holding this rifle back from its potential. Most likely the next step is swapping springs and I hope to install a threaded bolt to take up the slack on the trigger. This thread is a great inspiration.
I have noticed that both rifles are sensitive the torque on the stock bolts/screws.
20/25 inch pounds seems to work the best.
Has anyone else played around with the torque?
 
Update

The stock remodeling is going good. Still need some minor sanding then it will be ready for primer-sealer. I didn't take as many pictures as I should've but you'll see the main lines.

As I don't have the proper tools for inletting and the stock stock being some done-to-fast, butchered, cheap pretty soft hardwood, I simply decided it wouldn't break my heart to put the saw thru it. Followed a few guides as to how to do it, link below to one I took some good advices from. It's no gunsmith work and I didn't use the best material there is, but over the cheap stock stock and the rifle not being a high caliber, I can live with it.

http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/savage-tactical-rifle-project-2.php

I like the Tacticool look and am much much more comfortable with a vertical grip so this is the way I went. I also made the front about a inch and a half longer and deleted the little swirl. Didn't really like the look of it and it will give me space to move my Harris further making it more comfortable when holding the rifle standing. And why not free float and redo the horrible bolt handle channel while I was there! The shotgun recoil pad is also getting replaced with a more suitable buttplate.



Cutting lines:






Wood glued with titebond III ultimate wood glue and some modeling done, almost ready for bondo:






Bondo applied and sanded, still need some sanding and prepping bu almost ready for primer-sealer:






Hope some of you might like it, pillars and glass are the next steps, don't think you guys need to see any of it, will come back with pictures of the finished product.
 
Well, I pretty much finished the modeling of the stock!

After showing the stock to my father the other day, we ended up thinking, you know when you've been working closely on something for hours, sometimes you don't see some details.

Showing him my work was a good exercise as he showed me some pretty awful flaws I overlooked and would only have seen once painted and would have to strip everything down.

The bottom was too round and bulky, that ''belly'' is now gone
Some parts had the 2 sides far from symmetrical and have been corrected
Bolt handle channel is now finished and I also filled the rear portion of the trigger guard/bottom metal which showed a huge gap
After re assembly and test handling, I decided to remove approx. 1/8 off the front of the grip so the hand is a little further from the trigger and at the right spot on my finger pad
Even tho the wood grain was decent, the neck is so small I decided to reinforce it with a screw going from front of the grip to the back of the stock, just in case the rifle ever take a bad dive
And finaly realized my free floating was far from perfect and had to work on that

Now the stock is almost ready for filler-primer but I can't finish the prep work as I don't have a compressor to get all the dust off in my little 4 1/2... Will have to wait till I go see my parents later this week or I might just drop by an auto-shop and ask to use their compressor.

So while I was out doing nothing I took that time to take the mag well, trigger assembly and feed ramp off, gave them a good clean and lightly polished some of the parts. Trigger seems nicer but it's hard to really feel while disassembled (not putting it back in the dusty stock just for the heck of it..).

And I also picked up some delrin I had laying around and made a first attempt at a single shot adapter. Seems to work fine but again, hard to really tell with the rifle apart... Here are some pictures of it:










Oh! And Father, if I'm going too much off subject lmk and I'll start a new tread, wouldn't want you to feel like I'm trying to steal the show.
 
What????

Heck noo!!!

This is the largest resource on the interweb right now and all of us that have contributed own some of the credit.

I DO HAVE AN UPDATE PENDING!!


Honest, lol, just been busy.

You guys all rock.
 
For the past few days I've been playing around with the safety pin trigger mod for my NS522. As many of you probably know, it is relatively easy to fashion a replacement trigger spring for the 522 from an appropiately sized safety pin--just snip off either end and bend the thing to match the general contours of the original spring. I used too small a safety pin on my first attempt (it was the largest size pin in the "assorted pack" I had bought) and it did not provide enough tension to keep the sear engaged. When I closed the bolt to #### the rifle, the striker would move, decocking the bolt. Bending the spring to put more tension in it resulted in a very light trigger pull, but that would only last for a few dry-firings before the striker would again fall, decocking the bolt upon closing it. I then reinstalled the original spring, after first drilling and tapping the front of the trigger enclosure with a 3/32" drill bit and a 4-40 NC tap. I then installed a 4-40 allen headed set screw to adjust the over travel.
Yesterday I went back to the safety pin trigger mod, this time with a sturdier safety pin. The stouter safety pin spring has more tension than the smaller one I'd originally used, but still allows for a very light trigger pull with no noticeable over travel. I took the gun to a local indoor range yesterday afternoon and fired 65-70 trouble free rounds thru it. The trigger pull is very light (sorry, I don't have a way to measure the pull right now, but it's probably under 1 1/2 lbs) and very crisp, both of which add to the mechanical accuracy of the rifle.
 
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minimouse said:
For the past few days I've been playing around with the safety pin trigger mod for my NS522. As many of you probably know, it is relatively easy to fashion a replacement trigger spring for the 522 from an appropiately sized safety pin--just snip off either end and bend the thing to match the general contours of the original spring. I used too small a safety pin on my first attempt (it was the largest size pin in the "assorted pack" I had bought) and it did not provide enough tension to keep the sear engaged. When I closed the bolt to #### the rifle, the striker would move, decocking the bolt. Bending the spring to put more tension in it resulted in a very light trigger pull, but that would only last for a few dry-firings before the striker would again fall, decocking the bolt upon closing it. I then reinstalled the original spring, after first drilling and tapping the front of the trigger enclosure with a 3/32" drill bit and a 4-40 NC tap. I then installed a 4-40 allen headed set screw to adjust the over travel.
Yesterday I went back to the safety pin trigger mod, this time with a sturdier safety pin. The stouter safety pin spring has more tension than the smaller one I'd originally used, but still allows for a very light trigger pull with no noticeable over travel. I took the gun to a local indoor range yesterday afternoon and fired 65-70 trouble free rounds thru it. The trigger pull is very light (sorry, I don't have a way to measure the pull right now, but it's probably under 1 1/2 lbs) and very crisp, both of which add to the mechanical accuracy of the rifle.
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Pictures explain everything!
 
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